jporter12

The only way that I know of to do that is with software from the aftermarket. The manufacturer's don't want just anybody messing with their software. That would be a nightmare of warranty issues, I'm sure.

Nice!

You left out an "M"

No reverse as well? Sun gear shells break all the time, and cause no second, fourth, or reverse. If the band is burned up, the thing wasn't built properly, and should be gone over really thoroughly. If it's just the sun gear shell busted, they make a super heavy duty version called "The Beast" that I haven't had a failure out of yet. If it's just the sun gear shell, that would be a few hundred cheaper than a complete overhaul, depending on the shop.

Are you going to make thie one? Andm thanks.

I was referring to the left wearing more than the right with that last post, not the cupping. I'm not debating what causing the cupping, as I pretty well agree with what causes it, being tire pressure, and tire design. Now, how about some good explanation for why tires typically wear out on the left faster than on the right on street bikes, in the US.

I thought I had put the after that! You are correct, it has near zero effect on tire wear. From what I've read: We drive on the right, making left turns wider, and faster, and typically with more lean, causing the left biased tire wear. Supposedly, in countries where the drive on the left side of the road, they have right biased tire wear. Can anybody back that up, or put bust the myth?

Wow. I will keep your family in my prayers.

Who said anything about a clutch? In my laziness, I've learned the art of clutchless shifting, up and down. It's really easy, and not destructive if it's done properly. I'm more worried about the clutch cable than the discs. I'm running the Battlax BT45, which is a good all around tire for the smaller bikes. I have them on both bikes, in fact. I'm running around 30-32 in the front now. I think the OE spec for the front was 28, and I was running it there for a while, but now that I've improved my abilities beyond puttering around town, I'm trying different things to make the bike work better. I know, the first thing would be to replace the bike with something better, but that isn't an option right now, and the Ninja's probably going to stick around anyway.

I just read this over on vfrworld.com The Ottawa Senators Ortho surgeon is in pretty bad shape after apparently, an elderly woman pulled out in front of him. Here's the vfrworld link: http://vfrworld.com/forums/1st-2nd-generation-1983-1989/32247-motorcycle-accident.html

Well, since it's not cupped very bad, I'm going to see if raising the air pressure will help take some of it out. From what I've read, heavy braking with the front brakes will contribute to cupping, which is something I don't do on the Ninja so much, I downshift that thing most of the time.

BUT, what sort of effect would it have? Would it be less grip? Just a vibration when leaned over in a curve? I'ma google it, too.

How did quickzx9r do better than lbts glws?

I'm not sure what process they used. Money was really not an issue, but time was. I'm pretty sure they ended up cutting the end off the part and having a new piece made and bolted to what was left. This was a part for a blow molding machine. There were actually 6 of them in the place, plus I think they had an extra. Fun times. I sort fo miss that job. Back OT... I bet CCW would know what to do, and has probably done that job, or one very similar before.

I might show up later in the afternoon, since I'm planning on doing the 9-11 ride from the Continent to Johnstown, passing by the Ohio Fallen Heroes Memorial.

There's nothing to recal on that. What did the trans shop say the specific problem was? Sorry I didn't get back with you today, I was pulling the trans out and apart from a Ranger. Tomorrow will be likely getting into a 4L60E in a Suburban, same as your's. I have to put a fuel pump in that one to get it running first, so I know what's wrong with it!

What kind of tires? That sounds like barely enough to cover parts!

In the sig.

I think our kids know not to even go close to the bikes. They would not like what would happen if they did something like that!

The electronis in most GM transmissions are pretty reliable, with the exception of some of the early force motors. I bet I've replaced less than 5 shift solenoids in GM transmissions. The solenoids do have screens on them that get clogged when a transmission fails, or gets excessively worn.

Didn't you watch Bruce Almighty?

Yeah, there are no vacuum connections to the trans. It's all electronic. I have to disagree with you on the 80% of problems being fixed without pulling the trans, too. Unfortunately, by the time most people realize that somethin's not right, it's too late and serious damage has already occured, especially with all the electronic controls that tend to compensate when things aren't right.

Obviously not... Ass...

Don't hurt yourself patting yourself on the back!

I should have asked more questions! What gear does it do this in? Is the Service Engine Soon light on? If so, have you had the codes checked? I know the 4L60E transmission pretty well, which is what should be in your 'burban.