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In Japan the b16 came from the crx and the integra xsi. One is a 5 millions series motor and the other is a 1 million series motor.

You have a PM.

I am putting together a parts list from everyone and will be in contact with Forced Performance either tuesday or wednesday to get prices on everything. So, I will add the evoIII 16g to the list and will reply on here when I have the price for you. Brian

I will be offering this one time deal which mainly will benefit the DSM and Subaru guys. At the end of next week I will be planning on placing an order with Forced Performance. Anyone who would be interested in purchasing anything they carry would get all parts at dealer cost + shipping prices. As of right now the only thing they have informed me on that does not apply for a dealer discount is their package turbo deals. Jason Fowler, Ryan Hoblick, Brian Rigsby, and a few other people have already ordered stuff from me in the past. So, if you have any concerns about dealing with me contact them. Thank You, Brian Todd X P Racing

I bet you wish you had a lift in the garage behind your house like I do In case you don't remember this is Brian, Rigsby's friend.

I currently am using the 1st gen DSM BOV and it works just fine. I am running 6 psi but after a couple days gonna run up to 14.

I am running the tial on my setup and so far it has done a good job. I haven't personally used any other ones out there but I give the tial a graemlins/thumb.gif

I don't know if he would want to bring it to the mansfield area or not. But i've got a lift, engine hoist, welder, and other junk like that at my house to make the swap exremely easy. I've got a turbo b16 swap in my hatch, done an ls into a crx, and a b20 into a 98 civic too.

Every time I have replaced studs on a car I just bought mine from advance auto parts. I always took in an extra lug just to double check that it fit. I quit buying parts from advance because they give me the wrong part 60% of the time but I have not had a problem with getting lug nut studs from them.

I've drove with 3 lugs before for a little bit. But I would get it fixed. Its not too hard to do, just need access to a press.

I know rigsby used the greddy kit for his turbo on his zc motor. I think the kit he used was for a 92-95 civic and he used that manifold. I do happen to have a 14b turbo for sale. I was going to use it on my hatch but then decided to get a t3/t4. But I will sell the 14b for 100 bux if you want it.

I've done a B16 and B18a.

It might have something to do with the del sol axle. You are either supposed to have 90-93 integra axles on both sides or you can make your own set of SIR axles by combining 89 axles and 90 axles. You need to made the SIR axles if you have a SIR intemediate shaft. To make the axles you you use 86-89 integra axles with 90-93 integra inner CV joints.

Sounds like it could be syncros that have gone bad. Also it technically isn't a DSM.

I sold my friend one that was the skyline core with the right end tanks welded onto it. It was a nice fmic.

Its not hard at all. Just have to remove all the spark plugs and the fuse for the fuel pump. Then screw the tester in and crank the motor over for a couple seconds and repeat it about 5 times. And then just move on to the next one. I am going to talk to Rigsby, trborex, and see what he is doing tomorrow night to see if I am gonna be coming down. So, I will let you know probably tomorrow afternoon or send you a pm with my cell number.

I have a compression tester. And I might be making a trip to columbus saturday night. So, if you can't find anyone locally that has one and is free just let me know.

I may actually have an extra one around the shop some where. I can look around and see if I can find it and let you know.

Hey Daks its Brian, the one having to live in mansfield now. Most people say to just go with an oem headgasket. But, if I was to get an aftermarket one I would go with the inline pro headgasket.

The AFC hack you are referring to is the old way. That is where they connected the tps and map sensor together to confuse the ecu. But the problem with that setup is there is harsh switch over points. With the new setup where you hook it up exactly like the directions say and just set the low and high settings around -40% it is smooth all the way through. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137901&page=1 if you read all the way through that post it gives a lot of good explainations. Many people at first were confused about hooking it up but I think it is on the 2nd page where he tells you that you hook it up exactly like the apex directions say.

If you don't want to mess with check valves or the missing link you can get a safc. You hook it up the exact way the directions say then on your hi and low settings you put it between -35% and -40%. This way it drops the volt enough so that when you run boost the ecu will see it at regular volt and still will run just like normal. It will dump fuel in at wot, but for this to work you will need at least some 450 injectors and it is recommended to get an upgraded pump. That way you have more fuel being dumped in to compensate for the turbo.

The best supercharger for a honda/acura is the vortech but for that kit you are looking around 4 grand plus install, which you could do yourself. I personally like turbos a lot more on 4 cylinders. You can go with either like a custom 14b cheap turbo setup, a greddy or drag kit, or build your own custom setup. I personally am going with a custom t3/t4 setup just waiting for the turbo to get off backorder to finish the install. What model is the car?

Yeah i've checked out hondata quite a bit and know what system I would go with but right now I don't know if I really want to spend the money on it. My plan this year is to run on the stock internals and everything and keep the boost around 8-10 and then next winter I plan on building the whole motor and running high boost. And at that time I am going to run haltech. So, I think the past day or so I have decided to just go with the vafc and save the money for when I get the haltech instead of spending a lot of money on hondata when I will be taking it out in a year or so. But I do plan on having the car on the dyno quite a bit with the vafc then when I get the haltech i am gonna go to inline pro in virginia and have them tune it. But I finally started getting some goodies in today and got to start working on it again.

I was just checking around to see what everyone thinks is the best decision I should go with on tuning. I have a 1991 Honda civic hb with a 1st gen b16 in it. I just ordered a garret t3/t4 turbo. The compressor specs are .60 a/r housing with 60 trim wheel and the turbine specs are .63 a/r housing and stage 3 wheel. I wanna run between 8-10 psi. I already have dsm injectors and plan on getting a new fuel pump and different fuel regulator. My question has been is do you think that when it is put on the dyno they can tune it enough with just a vafc or am I gonna HAVE to go with like Hondata or AEM EMS. Any personal info or anything would help. Thanks