Bubba

Ooops. My bad. I see you said FZ….not FJ. Nevermind.

Welcome! You'll find a few OR folks in the C-bus area that like to get dirty. In case you're not familiar with ADVRider, you'll find lots of folks who are gettin' dirty... ...here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28732 ...and here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=758808 There's also some pretty decent riding over in Hoosier NF, but that's a pretty good distance from C-bus. You'll find even better riding in eastern KY and western WV.

Might have been Jeff (Sherpadude) from LocalRiders. He's got an FJ-09 and was riding out east yesterday at Jim-Bo's. http://www.localriders.com/forums/showthread.php?p=167358#post167358

….National Bubba Day!!! So, which one'a you'se worthless bastids is gonna take me out fer a beer or three? http://nationaldaycalendar.com/days-2/national-bubba-day-june-2/

BTW, Eastern Beaver offers relay kits for the headlight circuit that eliminates the amp surge thru the starter button circuit. Not that expensive and comes with the added benefit of making your headlights brighter (more amperage going to the headlights).

This ^^^ and the frame/engine grounds, for tightness and corrosion.

You could be right about the starter--if the motor is weak or the brushes/armature are shorted, it could be drawing so many amps that it jiggers the electronics. However, if it was my bike, I'd check the start button in the bar housing first. The way many "modern" bikes are built, the headlight circuit is routed thru the start button so that when you hit the button, it temporarily shuts down the headlight, saving amp draw during starting. What this eventually does, tho, is cook the contacts in the button due to the amp surge from the headlight. I'd take the housing apart and at the least, check and clean the starter button contacts. Easy and cheap!!! If that isn't the problem, then look elsewhere.

Never been that impressed with the 'in-pocket' armor in either the mesh or the textile pants….or jackets, for that matter. Unless they fit like a leather race suit, the armor can shift position in a get-off. When I'm riding street or hooning the backroad twisties, I always wear the MX-style knee/shin hard armor, sometimes under jeans, sometimes under the mesh pants if it's stupid hot. In a low-side, first thing that 'dabs' is your knee. I want a hard ABS shell between me and the road.

You won't have any problems. The H-Ds are pretty low seat height and carry their weight well. Even slow speed maneuvers in a parking lot are as easy as your lighter--but taller--Versys. They're quite pleasant to ride at a relaxed pace. Main difference is the clearance when cornering. Foot boards/pegs/pipes/primary case all drag at more extreme lean angles, so don't overcook any corners. Oh, and get used to short shifting. Low redline but prodigious torque numbers from 1200-1500 RPM means shift early and then cruise around town in 3rd or 4th with only an occasional downshift needed in traffic. Most stock motors, unless they've been modded, run out of breath at much over 4500 RPM, making wringing their necks an exercise in futility.

If you're not already familiar with the Adventure Rider site, check it out. There are two forum threads from folks based in Ohio, one more centrally located that rides more eastern--where all the real good stuff is--and one based in Cincinnati that rides both eastern and over into Indiana. Look in the regional forum section and you'll find what you seek….

Stands are sold.

Not right offhand. I always attended the Superbike weekend, but that's not happening and I'm not planning on hitting Vintage week. Long way to go for a set of stands, and I'm sure shipping would be a deal killer. Sorry.

Rizoma mirrors are sold!!!

Joe: Thx for the info. Kind'a figured they shared some common DNA. Price change on the stands. Quality-wise, I'd rate them about on par with what you'd find at HF and after checking, they're selling the F&R set on sale for $70 new. New LOWER PRICE on the stands is $35/set including the gnarly stickers which make even your maintenance chores and repair work go faster!!! Somebody needs these!!!

More freebies:

Back story: I bought a 2010 Zed1K from Joe (Scuba) for a good price a couple of years ago, rode it for awhile, and then sold it. My plan was to pass along the extras Joe threw in with the deal to the next owner, but the bike was actually purchased by a dealer here locally who had no interest in the box of extras. Bottom line, I ended up with a box of Z1000 stuff that I have no use for but has some monetary value. The big items for sale are the FX stands, SW-Motech Blaze Sport saddlebag system, Rizoma Elise mirrors, black anodized shorty levers (NOT Pazzo!) and a Kawasaki factory service manual. If you have any interest in the above items, I'll gladly throw in the other stuff for free, which includes a K&N filter (used, needs cleaning), a set of Pro-Bolt orange alloy valve caps and lever adjuster (new/in bag), rear spools (new/in bag), rim tape (orange/Kawasaki Racing), OEM levers/bar ends/rear fender with hardware. I have this stuff listed on the ADVR forum for mo' money, so the OR discount is already factored in….but I ride a WeeStrom, so I understand "CHEAP" Stuff is located in Cincinnati--shipping is gonna be extra….IJS. FX front & rear stands--not top quality but perfectly functional. Rear adjusts for width and spool-or-swing arm fitment. Asking $59/both OBO SW-Motech Bags-Collection Blaze Sport Saddlebag Systemhttp://www.twistedthrottle.com/sw-motech-bags-connection-blaze-sport-saddlebag-system-kawasaki-z1000-10-11Mounts to the passenger peg frame attachment. Expandable. Look like they've been used a couple of times, never in the rain. Retail for $370--asking $119 OBO. Rizoma Elise mirror set--Black with amber-tint mirror glass, like new in original packagehttp://www.motostrano.com/Rizoma-Elisse-Mirror-p/bs171-fslash-172.htmComes with the Zed1K adaptors. Retails for $376--asking $129 OBO RideItMoto black adjustable shorty levers (Chinese Pazzo knock-offs). Retails $62--asking $19 OBO Kawasaki Factory Service Manual for MY2010--$49 OBO Freebies if you buy the good stuff:

I think you and others may have hit it on the head--valve clearance. If you haven't checked them in 5-6000 miles, that'd be where I'd look. Difficult starts and reduced power when hot is a sure symptom of overly tight valves, most likely the exhaust valves. You could prolly check the compression cold vs hot to get an early diagnosis, but as long as you're pulling the body work and other parts off, go ahead and set 'em while you're in there.

I agree that good gear makes your ride--in any weather conditions--a better experience. Problem is that most us, myself included, start out riding when we're young, stupid, "bulletproof" broke dicks and make do with what we can afford….which then becomes our way of riding, sometimes for years later. I've been on two wheels for over 50 years and just this spring bought my first high-end riding suit--an AS 1-piece Roadcrafter. But just like most of my other gear, I bought it used. Suit goes for $1400-1600 new, and I paid $400 for something that looked like new and should still have the shop tags on it. Reach out to those who race--if they're racing in sanctioned events, gear ages out pretty quickly and can no longer be used according to the rules, but still may not have many rides/hours/miles of wear/sweat on it. I recently bought a Shoei RF1000 helmet from Andy for $40 and it looks like new.

Gump: Sent you a PM.

Chad: Any chance that it's as simple as a kink from your recent off-road excursion? Might be as easy as using a chain tool to re-set the roller pins a fraction to ease the tension on the affected side plates. Can't hurt to try--8000 mi isn't many miles and I'm sure there's not much wear. If you can fix the binding, it won't wear funny or quickly.

How about an immaculate and fastidiously maintained Aprilia Futura V-twin (just like a H-D!!!) set up for touring….and only $4200. Not mine but a friend of a friend on LocalRider.com. Bike is in Cinti. Linky: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showthread.php?p=167085#post167085 2004 Aprilia Futura RST 30k miles Meticulously maintained 3M Paint Protectant Film Corbin seat with passenger backrest Power Commander AF1 H-Pipe Jet-Hot Coated exhaust Staintunes dual exhaust Laminar Lip windshield deflector Evoluzion Intake System with K&N Filter RSV Intake Boot Throttlemeister cruise control NWS hugger fender High Performance rectifier Oil changed around 4k miles with Honda Synthetic Blend Parts upgraded/changed in the past couple thousand miles: Clutch plates, bearings and springs Clutch slave cylinder Plugs Coils Battery Tires Chain All stock parts stored (seat, exhaust) Many extra tune up parts available Complete set of Shop Maintenance Manuals Only Sunoco or Shell Premium fuel used 1937233_1022305338319_3402150_n.jpg

Protection against stone chips? I'm with CSC--those sneakers and bare ankles are gonna look bad if the SHTF….oh, and gloves!!! Nice bike, tho!!!

The symptoms you describe are indicative of a clogged idle jet, but you also say the spark plug shows an over-rich condition, which doesn't make sense. A black plug can also be caused by incomplete combustion--have you checked basics like compression (for a head gasket leak) and valve lash (for overly tight or burnt valves)? Either condition will make for a poor running motor and cause incomplete combustion and hard starting. If you've done your basic homework and the bike was running fine before you took it apart, it certainly sounds like you've missed something in the carb rebuild, most likely in the idle jet circuit. Did you put new jets in? Or just clean the old ones?

Chad: I know nothing about that particular bike, but having spent quite a bit of time riding the single-track trails and high pass jeep/quad roads, that doesn't look like anything I would pick for a DS bike to ride CO. First thing that hits me is too much plastic….although I realize once you fall over enough and tear it off, it becomes a nekkid. I'd wait until you spend some time out there and even go so far as to do some rentals and ride the local terrain. If it was me buying, I'd get something with FI to account for the large fueling requirements of altitudes ranging from 5000' to almost 14,000'. I'd get a bike that was plateable, i.e., with lights and signals and mirrors, because you will be connecting trails by road. I'd get something dead reliable because you REALLY don't want to be sitting on a high ridge with a dead bike and a storm moving in. And I'd chose to pay a little more for lighter vs heavier so you can sample some of the sweet technical single-track in addition to the bigger trails. I had a DRZ400 that had some light mods for riding the rough stuff--skid plate, folding shifter, engine covers, bark busters, folding mirrors, pivot pegz--and it went everywhere the boys with the full-on KTM MX bikes went, albeit with a bit more sweat on my part. The carb was a little glitchy in the higher elevations, but still worked OK and didn't cause any problems. If I lived out there, I bet I'd get really good at re-jetting for the particular trail I was riding…. BTW, if I didn't already say it….color me jealous!!!

That trike makes you look older than your avatar….and your butt looks bigger, too.