Bubba

OK, got it. Does sound a little ridiculous. Sounds like THEY need THEIR ass kicked by a bunch of good ol' boys…. ….altho life usually ends up dealing with fucktards like these way more harshly than just an old fashioned ass-kickin'.

Help me. Old guy here. I ride MCs. Can rebuild my own engines. I have ink on both legs, both arms, chest and back. I'm a real hep cat. WTF are juggalos?

Took a few days off from my grueling retirement schedule to take a road trip south. Hit the Corvette museum in Bowling Green and then rolled a bit further to Birmingham, AL, to check out the Barber facility. Best motorsports destination….EVAH!!! Just a few pics to tease you into making the road trip. Not a bad ride at all--maybe 6.5 hours if you speed just a little…. Here's slideshow link:http://s875.photobucket.com/user/icantdrive55/slideshow/Barber%20Motorsports%20Museum?sort=6

Some folks indicated they might have interest in checking out the meet-up. Weather looks awesome and I'm sure there will be a big turnout of both cars and bikes. Coffee is great and if you get there early enough, the sausage gravy and biscuits are guaranteed to clog your arteries. Planning on getting there 8:30-9ish. Lemeno…. https://plus.google.com/114391303109222329854/about?gl=us&hl=en

So….assumption is 120/70-17 front, but rear is ??? 180? 190? 50 or 55 profile? Might help generate interest if you specified a tire size other than "wrong" for you. IJS.

Julie: Just to clarify, it's not your ignition switch. It's the starter button on the handlebar. In normal operation, the current for your lights runs thru the starter switch in the undepressed position. When you depress the switch, it cuts the current to the lights and sends current to the starter relay. It's the current surge when the lights are instantly shut off and then back on that burns the contacts. That and dirt, moisture, oxidation, etc. At least that's the way the Zuk's work….

Pretty sure that it's a bad connection in your starter switch on the handlebar. Most of the modern bikes run the current for the lights thru the start switch so that it momentarily interrupts the current to the lights during the start sequence. It's a cheap way to do it, but it's been a problem for late-model Suzukis as well. Take the switch apart and clean the contacts well, use some dielectric grease when you put it back together. If the contacts are shot from arcing and corrosion, you might have to replace the switch. I wired a couple of relays into the lighting harness of my '09 WeeStrom so that the main lighting current is shunted thru relays and only the small current required to operate the relay runs thru the switch. This is actually a worthwhile fix, as it also increases your light output due to less current loss--a typical installation will run the lighting juice straight from the battery or your main fuse block direct to headlights (thru the relays). You should be able to Google this and possibly find a custom plug-n-play harness to fix your bike. Good luck!

Value Decision: potential loss of baby duck lives > potential loss of human life = stupid bimbo How about the offer of mandatory sterilization so she doesn't pass along her defective genes….just a thought.

You planning on installing this on the lowest level or on a slab? The kind of weight you're talking needs to be checked for structural loading with respect to your construction details. If you're planning on cladding a room over a floor joist construction, best get specs on current design loading, existing load specs, joist span from beam supports, etc. If you're loading the basement steel support beam, get that spec'd also. They ain't gonna need to shoot you if the room collapses into the basement and crushes you….

I've got a few items from Bilt that have faired pretty well over the last few years of ownership. I've got a pair of their summer textile pants and some of their dirt gear and it's perfectly functional. Only criticism I have is that the pants aren't as well optioned--pockets/zippers/etc--as the more pricey gear. No quality issues, tho. I've also got some winter gear--pants, gloves, neck warmer--that I bought on the cheap from Jaffrum (another discount gear online retailer) that have performed well, too. Not saying that the top dollar stuff isn't worth the money, but for a typical rider, the gear is fine. IMHO…. ADD: I think the big quality issue with the cheaper race gear is the integrity of the sewn seams and the fabric thickness. Don't want those to separate/wear thru when/if you go down. No experience with the race gear, so I can't comment.

PM sent. Hmmm. Messenger not working….your Inbox full?

FYI. Not trying to hijack your thread, OB…just putting this here since the thread is about riding later this week. I know there aren't many OR peeps located in the Cinti area, but thought this might be of some interest to folks. Rob Giles (Dice32) posted a ride event on LocalRiders/AFJ that is gonna explore the backroads in NKY on Thursday, 7/3. Will include many of the great ones like 227 south from Owenton to Stamping Ground--definitely worth the trip!!! Pace will be 'spirited' but not gonzo crazy (prolly not more than about 15-20 over). Usually a mix of both sport bikes, DS bikes and cruisers, whatever else shows up. Riders should be very comfortable/competent riding twisty, rural roads at speed. Group ALWAYS waits for the tail riders/counts heads at every turn. Link here: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showthread.php?p=163884#post163884

Not sure if you're using the 'new' GoogleMap or the classic version, but the process is similar. In the new G-map, click on the Tool logo (the little thing that looks like a gear in the lower right corner of the page) and you will see a couple of options to either share the map link or embed the map in your message. For instance: Hillsboro to Cave Run Lake (just a quick example) https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Hillsboro,+OH+45133/38.0309124,-83.4438694/@38.6153167,-84.0339086,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m8!4m7!1m5!1m1!1s0x8840d4bda1864f15:0x4638c5f16d443358!2m2!1d-83.611587!2d39.2022866!1m0

Not sure if this was your question…. http://www.assfaultjunkies.com https://www.facebook.com/FuelCoffeeCincy

Yup. Fuel is always a big crowd, with everything from a Lamborghini Aventador to the usual ricer crowd, and bikes from scooters to adventure touring rigs to modded CBXs to vintage iron. Killer biscuits and sausage gravy, too, if you get there early enough!!! The Wed meet at O'Dells is primarily a Junkie crowd since they were the ones to put it together. Used to be some bad blood between OR and AFJ, but the AFJ crew has mellowed greatly since the forum was created and they're a great resource for hooking up for weekly rides into NKY and some on the east side of Cinti. LocalRiders.com is a smaller and less active forum but has a core of about 20-30 regulars that get out every now and then. Check 'em both out.

Wayfarer and NN: Just an FYI….Milford QSL Bike night is Wednesday and at Colerain QSL on Thursdays. Mostly the chrome-and-tassel pirate crowd with a sprinkling of squids thrown in, but occasionally worth the free price of admission…. Tuesday nights is Bike night at the Comet in Northside. Last Thursday of every month--meaning tomorrow 6/26--is Euro-Bike night in Milford in the Park National Bank lot across from MJ's on Main. If you're looking for a fun get-together with tons of cars and bikes, try the Fuel Cars 'n' Coffee meet Saturday mornings 8-12 on Kellogg Ave along the river.

Well, to be fair….his chain WAS a little loose. Oh. Wait. That was his wallet chain….nevermind.

Fun place to stop. Got's real character! Be sure to ask for "The Home Wrecker"….

There are SO MANY ROADS in the NKY area bounded by the area from Maysville to Louisville and north to the OH river that you could spend two weeks riding hundreds of miles a day and not do all of them! As good as 22 is from Willow to Williamstown, it gets less remarkable the further west you go. Another option--since we're freely adding mega-miles to Bandit13's ride--would be to head south from Owenton on 227 (LEGENDARY!) all the way to Stamping Ground, then wiggle your way over to Frankfort and pick up I-64W into L-ville. In the eastern part of your ride, you can't go wrong with 875, 165 (freshly paved!), 62, 356, 607, and US421 (more traffic, tho).

;o) I can't take credit for finding any of those. I was introduced to all of those by Rob Giles (Dice32 on OR) and the hard core riders from the LocalRiders site. I have hooned thousands of miles of sweet twisties with that crew and never had an issue with anyone in the group being irresponsible….well, OK, except for the speeding part.

Some of the lesser known roads are WAY better than the Dragon. To note: 281-Canada Rd from Tuckasegee to Lake Toxaway 276 from Waynesville to 64 (crosses the BRP) and very easy to make fun loop with 215... 215 from Waynesville to 64 (crosses the BRP) 107 from Cullowee to 1001/Tilley Creek/Elijay Rd to 64 (near Highlands) out of Hiawassee, GA, the loop of 76/197/356 into Helen, then 17 to return, or... if you have the time (since you're already down there) include 348, 19, 180 (WolfPen Gap Rd), and 60 IMHO, War Woman is an OK ride but overrated, since the only REALLY good part is the eastern first few miles. FYI: If you get to GA, remember they now have the super speeder law, which doubles the fine for 20+ over--gets DAMN pricey!!!

The LocalRiders crew out of Cinti puts together a NC trip every year in early Sept. Part of the 'pageantry' is the route choice from-to in finding the best back roads for the trip. We spend lots of time researching and mapping and usually manage to have a great adventure in the process. Note that our destination is not Deals Gap but Waynesville, NC, which puts us in the heart of the mountains and close to the BRP and Cherhola Skyway, as well as some absolutely awesome secondary roads like 215, 276, 209, 281-Canada Rd, 28, and whole bunch more if you go south into GA. Here's last year's routes down and back, and if you go into the forum's Touring thread, you'll find additional routes from years past. 2-day trip south: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showpost.php?p=160786&postcount=101 Return trip north: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showpost.php?p=161059&postcount=181 EDIT/ADD: to use Mapmyride, click on the View Route Full Screen on the right of the page, then click to expand the Directions on the left of the page, which enables interactive following of the route by hovering the mouse over the directions box. You can also export the route as a GPX or KML file.

Cheap bobber = any mid-80s UJM on CL. Remove fenders, hack off rear sub-frame and chrome mufflers, install solo seat and drag bars. Done! A pair of tight stretch denims, sleeveless black leather vest, and a do-rag/bandana and yer good to go. For cheap cafe racer, apply same formula, except--for gear--substitute vintage leather track suit and old, open face Bell helmet, preferably with metal flake paint job and tinted bubble shield.

Joe: Big-boned? I thought you just told all your women you were value-sized….?

Great looking pants, but that white is gonna be pretty ugly after a day's ride in the summer rain or after a night ride thru a bug-splosion. ???s: Are these vented or perforated leather for hot weather? Large enough in the cuff area to go over mid-calf MC boots? You can PM me a price if the OR price is significantly different than the provided link to the item. Thx--Bubba