Bubba

Not sure if you're using the 'new' GoogleMap or the classic version, but the process is similar. In the new G-map, click on the Tool logo (the little thing that looks like a gear in the lower right corner of the page) and you will see a couple of options to either share the map link or embed the map in your message. For instance: Hillsboro to Cave Run Lake (just a quick example) https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Hillsboro,+OH+45133/38.0309124,-83.4438694/@38.6153167,-84.0339086,9z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m8!4m7!1m5!1m1!1s0x8840d4bda1864f15:0x4638c5f16d443358!2m2!1d-83.611587!2d39.2022866!1m0

Not sure if this was your question…. http://www.assfaultjunkies.com https://www.facebook.com/FuelCoffeeCincy

Yup. Fuel is always a big crowd, with everything from a Lamborghini Aventador to the usual ricer crowd, and bikes from scooters to adventure touring rigs to modded CBXs to vintage iron. Killer biscuits and sausage gravy, too, if you get there early enough!!! The Wed meet at O'Dells is primarily a Junkie crowd since they were the ones to put it together. Used to be some bad blood between OR and AFJ, but the AFJ crew has mellowed greatly since the forum was created and they're a great resource for hooking up for weekly rides into NKY and some on the east side of Cinti. LocalRiders.com is a smaller and less active forum but has a core of about 20-30 regulars that get out every now and then. Check 'em both out.

Wayfarer and NN: Just an FYI….Milford QSL Bike night is Wednesday and at Colerain QSL on Thursdays. Mostly the chrome-and-tassel pirate crowd with a sprinkling of squids thrown in, but occasionally worth the free price of admission…. Tuesday nights is Bike night at the Comet in Northside. Last Thursday of every month--meaning tomorrow 6/26--is Euro-Bike night in Milford in the Park National Bank lot across from MJ's on Main. If you're looking for a fun get-together with tons of cars and bikes, try the Fuel Cars 'n' Coffee meet Saturday mornings 8-12 on Kellogg Ave along the river.

Well, to be fair….his chain WAS a little loose. Oh. Wait. That was his wallet chain….nevermind.

Fun place to stop. Got's real character! Be sure to ask for "The Home Wrecker"….

There are SO MANY ROADS in the NKY area bounded by the area from Maysville to Louisville and north to the OH river that you could spend two weeks riding hundreds of miles a day and not do all of them! As good as 22 is from Willow to Williamstown, it gets less remarkable the further west you go. Another option--since we're freely adding mega-miles to Bandit13's ride--would be to head south from Owenton on 227 (LEGENDARY!) all the way to Stamping Ground, then wiggle your way over to Frankfort and pick up I-64W into L-ville. In the eastern part of your ride, you can't go wrong with 875, 165 (freshly paved!), 62, 356, 607, and US421 (more traffic, tho).

;o) I can't take credit for finding any of those. I was introduced to all of those by Rob Giles (Dice32 on OR) and the hard core riders from the LocalRiders site. I have hooned thousands of miles of sweet twisties with that crew and never had an issue with anyone in the group being irresponsible….well, OK, except for the speeding part.

Some of the lesser known roads are WAY better than the Dragon. To note: 281-Canada Rd from Tuckasegee to Lake Toxaway 276 from Waynesville to 64 (crosses the BRP) and very easy to make fun loop with 215... 215 from Waynesville to 64 (crosses the BRP) 107 from Cullowee to 1001/Tilley Creek/Elijay Rd to 64 (near Highlands) out of Hiawassee, GA, the loop of 76/197/356 into Helen, then 17 to return, or... if you have the time (since you're already down there) include 348, 19, 180 (WolfPen Gap Rd), and 60 IMHO, War Woman is an OK ride but overrated, since the only REALLY good part is the eastern first few miles. FYI: If you get to GA, remember they now have the super speeder law, which doubles the fine for 20+ over--gets DAMN pricey!!!

The LocalRiders crew out of Cinti puts together a NC trip every year in early Sept. Part of the 'pageantry' is the route choice from-to in finding the best back roads for the trip. We spend lots of time researching and mapping and usually manage to have a great adventure in the process. Note that our destination is not Deals Gap but Waynesville, NC, which puts us in the heart of the mountains and close to the BRP and Cherhola Skyway, as well as some absolutely awesome secondary roads like 215, 276, 209, 281-Canada Rd, 28, and whole bunch more if you go south into GA. Here's last year's routes down and back, and if you go into the forum's Touring thread, you'll find additional routes from years past. 2-day trip south: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showpost.php?p=160786&postcount=101 Return trip north: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showpost.php?p=161059&postcount=181 EDIT/ADD: to use Mapmyride, click on the View Route Full Screen on the right of the page, then click to expand the Directions on the left of the page, which enables interactive following of the route by hovering the mouse over the directions box. You can also export the route as a GPX or KML file.

Cheap bobber = any mid-80s UJM on CL. Remove fenders, hack off rear sub-frame and chrome mufflers, install solo seat and drag bars. Done! A pair of tight stretch denims, sleeveless black leather vest, and a do-rag/bandana and yer good to go. For cheap cafe racer, apply same formula, except--for gear--substitute vintage leather track suit and old, open face Bell helmet, preferably with metal flake paint job and tinted bubble shield.

Joe: Big-boned? I thought you just told all your women you were value-sized….?

Great looking pants, but that white is gonna be pretty ugly after a day's ride in the summer rain or after a night ride thru a bug-splosion. ???s: Are these vented or perforated leather for hot weather? Large enough in the cuff area to go over mid-calf MC boots? You can PM me a price if the OR price is significantly different than the provided link to the item. Thx--Bubba

Gotta love a freakin' motorcycle forum with a thread on 6-pair recombinant DNA….FTMFW!!!

Thanks to Jeff for a nice lift table. It's clean and the price was right!

Doesn't sound like a clutch problem to me. Typically, a worn clutch will cause the engine to rev as the clutch plates slip relative to the speed of the bike. If you're shift lever is sticking, I'd look at several things: 1) make sure you're toe is completely releasing the shift lever between shifts; the amount of movement between the higher gears (4-5, 5-6) is much smaller than between the lower gears, so you may be unconsciously keeping pressure on the lever with your toe; since it's a pawl mechanism, if you don't release the lever completely after completing a shift, the shift pawl can't pick up the next set of teeth on the drum; simple matter to adjust the shift lever angle so you don't maintain pressure on it; 2) make sure your shift linkage is lubed and not so stiff/dry/rusty/dirty that it causing sticking (similar to the whole toe thing above); 3) it's possible that your internal shift mechanism is bent and not operating properly, but it's WAY MORE USUAL that the shift pawl would be bent/damaged in the 1-2 or 2-3 shift position, since that's what usually takes the most abuse. Bottom line, it doesn't sound like a clutch to me.

Ouch! So it sounds like the car driver wasn't paying attention, looked up and saw the left turning vehicle in front of him/her, figured he/she couldn't stop in time and made the decision that it was gonna hurt a lot less to cross the center line and take out two motorcyclists? The old smaller, lighter target thing? I bet a dollar the car driver was on the phone or texting…. RIP, Paul.

My AC unit just has 9 or so sheet metal screws holding the fan motor and housing on to the side louvers. I just take 'em out and tilt the whole fan/motor/cover back and either vacuum or hose the crap out. I've started using a cover for the fall/winter/spring months when the unit is not in use--it keeps things a lot cleaner--altho I suppose you can't do that for a heat pump. FYI, be sure and pull the buss bar/breaker on the outside box disconnect so you're not working around live 220V!!! And while you're in there, make up a soap solution--something like Mr Clean or Simple Green--and give the coils a good soaking, and then hose them off to remove last year's sponge and aid in heat exchange.

Can't help you with the paint question, but I'd be suggesting this: http://www.harborfreight.com/8-channel-surveillance-dvr-with-4-cameras-and-mobile-monitoring-capabilities-61229.html to you MIL….unless you've got an Uncle Guido with a barber shop in Queens. Nailing the neighbor to the wall would be SWEET revenge!!!

Joe: I doubt that, with the advent of FI on modern bikes, there isn't a lot of expertise remaining in the run-of-the-mill shop that has any specialized skills with fueling, especially fora specific model. I'd start out asking your question and looking for tips on the ThumperTalk forum. I had a DRZ for awhile and I'm sure that the FCR conversion is one of the more popular, so there's bound to be a ton of info. If you're not familiar with the link: http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/17-dr-z-400/#!GSKca

That's not pretty! Interesting that there was a run of Yamaha FZ1's from the same era--'07 thru '09-ish--that had aluminum frame weld issues. The dealers were getting authorization from Yamaha to replace the frames back then, but presume an out-of-warranty issue nearly 7 years after the build date would present a problem. Sorry to hear of your problems and good luck with the repairs!!!

Whoa….my heady explody….need more beer.

Give up. You are trying to be The Voice of Reason in an unreasonable thread….you're wasting energy. This is why I love to lurk on OR--the humor and wit are AT LEAST on a par with members' riding skills. Aahhh, if only I could carve a decreasing radius corner the way some of the wags carve up the noobs here. A-N-D….it's not even winter!!!

Agree with this, if true. Hope this is the case…. Pretty sure the 'modern' H-D Sportster motors use a multi-weight 10W-40 oil in the gear case. The older motors used the 90W hypoid gear oil.

Mmmm, I don't know. If it was my bike, I'd be concerned. That's a metric shit-ton of shavings for a bike with 20K miles of wear-in, especially if the oil and filter was recently changed and the plug wiped clean. Some pretty big chunks of metal being shed by something in there. Problem is that you won't know what/why unless you do a tear-down, so I guess the answer is ride it until something breaks…unless yer into some serious wrenching.