JBartolucci4

Shotgun - and invest in a clay bird launcher and get a friend that owns a field you can shoot in.

+1

I did the same thing and it is def the way to go. New bike for a "get it the hell out of my show room" price. I think I paid $8,5XX for my 08 CBR600RR in 2009.

I'm in for a little bit of the next one. I'm sure Brian would go too. After reading this I want a DR bike now.

I just got the PM I will hit you back in a little bit.

So true, It only gets worse when they gain "Wife" status!

If you have that stuff in a few months we will have to deal. I have been wanting to get back into paintball for a while now and I was always a big fan of Smart Parts. Your not interested in any trades are you. I may have a few real guns that we could possibly work something up on. Let me know.

LCP. I have the Kel-Tec P3AT (I bought it before the LCP came out or I would have got the LCP) and I carry it everywhere. I mean hell why not my cell phone is bigger and weighs about the same. Def opt for the side clip, I think I paid like 7 bucks for it and it's well worth it. I also religiously carry mine as a back up on my ankle while on duty.

Buying one as soon as I get home tonight!!! Thanks for the heads up!!!

It is Coshocton, Thats probably the best of the best for them.

So with all of that said anyone up for a ride to the Foxhole?

Bump - $600 takes it, Needs to be gone! Wedding is killing the bank account. Call my cell 740 398 2112 anytime.

Hi

Oh, Ok you used motorcycle oil, I didn't know that til you put up those pics. lol, no I was typing that message and reading that article when you posted that, I didn't see it until I had already posted.

Motorcycle crankcase oils are specially formulated for motorcycle applications that have wet clutches. Most automotive oils are not suitable for use in motorcycle engines. A premium quality motorcycle specific oil typically has higher levels of anti-wear chemistry such as zinc and phosphorus than some automotive oils do, which are critical in protecting high RPM and high load and engines from wear and especially cam lifters and follower wear. That is not to say that all motorcycle oils have increased levels of zinc and phosphorus; many do not. Over the years, automotive manufacturers have requested oil manufacturers to reduce zinc, phosphorus (an essential element in ZDDP, Zinc Diethyl Dithiophosphate) and other extreme pressure additives from the oil. The primary reason is that automotive manufacturers have requested is that they are extending emissions systems warranties to periods of 10 years/150,000 miles and they claim that high concentrations of these chemical additives were contaminating their catalytic converters and negatively affecting emission levels required to meet their 10 yea/150,000 mile warranty requirements. There are also a few motorcycles on the market that have catalytic converters, however they are not subject to the same 10-year requirements as the automotive industry for emissions levels. We recommend looking at the oil manufacturers specification sheet and performing a comparison. If they won’t provide the data a very simple spectrographic analysis lab test can be performed that will provide the exact PPM (parts per million) concentration of zinc, phosphorus and other chemicals. That is the only way to get accurate information. There is no reason why a reputable oil manufacturers customer technical service department should not have that data (as well as all the other ASTM test data references in this book) readily available for the consumer and if they do not we would be highly suspect as to why not and go out and get the data myself before I started using their oil. Another issue with using an automotive type oil in a motorcycle with a wet clutch is that many automotive oils have friction modifiers. Friction modifiers in automotive oils tend to provide increased frictional reduction and offset a portion of the fuel economy lost when the U.S. Government mandated a reformulated gasoline for emissions requirements. However these friction modifiers can be detrimental to proper wet clutch operation and can cause slippage and other potential performance issues such as “engine start failures, a rough running feel and increased fuel consumption due to higher engine stall speeds”. It is also important to note that there are automotive type oils that do not contain friction modifiers. You have no way of knowing unless the specific manufacturer tells you. That is why we say it is better to be safe and use a motorcycle specific oil in a motorcycle engine with a wet clutch that meets the proper motorcycle specification as stated in the next few paragraphs. A premium quality motorcycle engine oil can be stated to meet the requirements of API Service Classification SJ, SH, SG, SF, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF and CD. Note that SH, SF, SG and CD are now obsolete. Motorcycles specifying an oil meeting any of the obsolete applications can use an oil with the newer classification oil because it includes, and supercedes, the requirements of the obsolete service classification. For example, if you have an old motorcycle that specifies SE service classification you do not have to go out and look for an oil with that service classification (and if you did you would most likely not be able to find any in stores as SE was outdated in 1979). The newer classifications include the outdated ones and are perfectly suitable for use. There are some motorcycle oil manufacturers that will include an older service classification on the bottle to so that consumers can specifically see that the oil not only meets all the older specifications but the newer ones as well. It is important to note that as an oil classification is superceded by a newer one, that the newer one provides improved benefits over the older one in such areas as high and low temperature deposits, wear, rust and corrosion for example and is perfectly suitable for use. All quality motorcycle specific oils should also carry the JASO Motorcycle Specifications, which are either the JASO-MA specification (no friction modifiers) or the JASO-MB specification (with friction modifiers). The JASO-MA rating specifies that no friction modifiers are used. Note that the JASO-MB motorcycle does have friction modifiers, but is designed for motorcycles thatspecify theJASO-MB specification.If the oil does not carry one of these specifications, even if the other specifications listed above are present, I recommend finding an oil that has the proper JASO specification clearly labeled on the bottle. So not sure if the "wet clutch" thing applies to you but I knew I heard that somewhere.

What kind of oil did you put in it? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I do remember something about if you don't use an oil that is designed for use in motorcycles you can damage the clutch?

Needs a little work but I have all of the pieces = I took it apart because I thought I knew what I was doing but now that I have it apart I'm either: A: To lazy to put it back together, B: To stupid to put it back together or C: all of the above. But I would still like to get the money I have in it back.

Yeah, I'm really only interested in the bucket, would you separate?

http://columbus.craigslist.org/grd/1870028375.html People amaze me with what they think they can sell. This is not:

yeah i fixed it. lol

Brawny?

Sounds good

just give me a call and come look at it, take it for a spin. 740 398 2112.

I had a guy offer me $1000 and never came though on the deal. $800 seems like a reasonable price to me to let it go for what it is. I have a little over $900 in it, so if someone can come up with $800 they can ride it home.