DoughnuT

It is hard to deal with at times. I had to put my Blood Hound down (after 12 years) the end of summer, my other Doberman(at 8 years) the summer before, and my first dog Rottweiler/Doberman mix 7 years ago when I was 18. It is hard the first couple times you see where they always ate at, would lay down, etc... Just remember that they are no longer in pain, and are playing and smiling all day now. The hardest one for me was my Blood Hound. She would howl every time someone cam up the road, when the fire alarm goes off, and she would always meet me when I would walk in my gate. Hard to just not be there anymore when these things happen. Keep pictures around, so when you see them you think about happy times, and not putting them down. It does get better, but never goes away. There is a reason a lot of people make them like family and treat them like a child.

There is still the possibility that they are burned out. I would check the wiring and such like everyone else has stated, and find out what bulbs the replacements are. With the gear indicator still lit up, even though it is dimmer than normal, I would almost bet on the bulbs being burnt. If it was the switch, then the gear indicator wouldn't light up correct? That light should be on the same circuit as the rest. Not to mention no lights should come on, since all the lights are ran through one switch, if it is bad. That has been my experience any ways. I just went through changing the bulbs in my ranger, because one went out in the speedo, and others were dim. Only took about 30 minutes for the first time to do it. Had to take the cluster out of the dash, but that was only 10 bolts maybe. All my experience is with Ford, so I can't tell you for sure that Chevrolet is the same. Look into everything, to rule out all possibility of something major.

I understand what you are saying recon, but if it comes to something like that I may step in and offer something higher. It is hard to watch someone get rid of something that has been in the family that long. Let alone know they are getting ripped off by a dealer. I know some are going to think it would be an "asshole" move, but the dealer is going to turn around and rip another person off selling it, and I rather see someone get something better out of stuff like that. Like you said, it was worth more, and the dealer ripped him off for something his father may have fought for. Wouldn't want it to happen to me if my father done that, so I wouldn't let it happen to someone else in that spot.

I got there about 10:30, went and got lunch about 1, and stayed there until about 5. My friend that I went with, sold three guns there yesterday. S&W model 19, Ruger speed 6 in 357mag, and a sigma I think. He done pretty good. He sold those in about 20 minutes, after we came back from eating. We were checking out a couple guns, and he ended up buying a mini14. He was debating on the mini14, the 44mag Desert Eagle, or the Israeli 357mag Desert Eagle. He ended up picking up the 14. Fun guns to play with, but he probably won't have it to long. He trades a lot, and hardly keeps a gun for more than a week. I had just bought a Springfield armory 1911, a couple days before, or I would have went home with one of the Desert Eagles. For some reason, I want a .50 Desert Eagle badly. Don't know why, other than being different.

It wasn't a bad little show. I think there were more long guns than anything though. Still thinking about the 50cal rifle that was there, and the .50 Desert Eagle in the same area. Wonder what kind of deal I can get for both of them together? May have to make the trip today, and see what happens.

They are fun little guns. Like other have said, not that great for a target toy, since ammo does cost more than others. Either way though, better for target than larger calibers, and a decent little hunting riffle. I prefer my 30-0-6 or 7mm just because I like the "big boom" when the trigger gets pulled. I actually know people around my area that hunt deer with them. As long as you get a good head shot, the deer drops on impact. They also make some good rounds with them, that will drop a deer just like shooting with a shotgun.

Fees are waived on motorcycles/water craft/farm trailer. My birthday is Jan 2, and I don't renew my bikes until the weather breaks, and the fee is waived for seasonal "vehicles." Can also, renew for 2 years on personal vehicles now, so you wouldn't have to worry about it. Cost is double the regular fee, and they mail the 2nd year registration to you when they are needed.

It is fun, but takes a lot out of you. To the O.P., somebody stud his tire for him. If not, I see someone going down a few times. For regular knobby tire, we have always done about 4/knob to get the traction we wanted. If you really want traction, look into getting flat track tires. A lot of room to set up your traction lines. Easier to have a good bite all the way around the tire, because there really isn't more than 1/4" gap between lugs on the flat track tires. They are rounder also, and allow a "deeper" lean angle.

I am assuming that the flat track bike, is a bull taco. If it is, who I think it is, he is a pro flat track racer, and scoots on the ice. His teenage son does pretty good on it also. If it is him, I know his family down here. He has a nephew that went to vegas several times for MX racing. I may be wrong on who it is though.

They are really easy, to set up. Main thing is to get the vent set up right, and shouldn't have any problems with it. A few people down here use them to heat houses through the winter. Put out a good bit of heat, just sucks having to deal with all the wood. I have a friend that is heating his house with one, however he has 90 acres to get the wood from. Just have to keep the pipes clean. I know people that use them year around, to do their hot water and all that good stuff.

There is a couple of us that come up there usually once a year. We have been thinking hard the past couple of years, about putting a sprint-kart on buckeye lake to see how it does. These little bastards are quick as shit, but run single cylinder engines for the drive train. The only thing we are having problems with about doing it, is getting it to start on the ice.

Go to www.asasoftball.com and click on the certified equipment. It will give you list and some have pictures, if not you can always google the bat model number. As far as shaved/rolled bats, if an umpire knows what to look for, they will never be used. It is very easy to tell if a bat has been shaved or rolled when they are new. The more hits on the bat, the harder it is to notice they have been rolled.

ASA isn't a bad league to get into, just have to remember to get all the "league rules" outside of Sanctioned ASA rules on paper so you know what you are looking at. Make sure you get good bats as well. This time of year, you can find deals on them, but make sure you get a decent ASA approved bat. If you don't know if a bat is banned, look it up on ASAsoftball.com They have a list on there for banned bats. Also, you are looking at 200 and up for a decent bat. I know people that have spent 500+ on a bat before, just because they want the best they can get. I see no reason in it, but to each their own.

If I didn't live in Southern Ohio, I would volunteer. Love playing the game. Why not just find tournaments, and post the dates? If you are having this much trouble finding people to have a steady team, just do tournaments, with what is available. I play in 3 different leagues, indoor tournaments through the winter, and what ever tournaments we can put a team together and travel to them. It is a lot easier to get tournament dates, and put a team together to compete in it, than it is to have a steady league team. The bad thing with leagues, is you may play on any given day, depending on how the league is set up. Also, what sanction are you looking to play in? I play in ASA, and USSSA(U-trip). Normal league is ASA, church league is ASA, and the Co-ed league is USSSA. They are basically all the same rules, with a few exceptions: ASA- Bats are restricted to 98BBP(98 mph when the ball leaves the bat) Pitching/ Ball has to reach 6' when released but no higher than 10' USSSA/NSA- Bats are restricted to 1.20BBP(120mph when the ball leaves the bat) Pitching/ Ball has to go at least 3' from the release point, no higher than 10' A lot of your better teams, are in USSSA for competition, so be ready for fast games. I know a team that travels NEO and lower PA. You do not want to meet them in a game. They are sponsored by "Worth" and are just nasty. There are several guys on the team, that have national championship rings. They pay for their first tournament, then travel off what they win for the rest of the season. After the first tournament, they don't pay for gas, hotel if needed, or food. They ARE that good. Also, all the talk about the good bats being banned, is complete bull crap. Worth, Easton, Miken, Combat, Louisville, etc... all have bats for each league. Yes some perform better than others, you just have to know what you are looking for. I personally use Worth bats, for ASA and USSSA/NSA. By no means am I a power hitter, but I find the 300 mark with my bats often. That is ASA bats as well. It is all about getting a bat that feels good to you. Just have to remember that ASA is limited to 98mph on bat speed.

What are you wanting a picture of Beegreenstrings? Don't think I really need to take a picture of it. Not hard to imagine, the screen doesn't even make it to 90degree before it hits the vents. If it doesn't make sense though, I can try to get a picture of it with my phone, and show you guys. I thought it made sense when I explained it, but it may just be that I know what it is doing, and you aren't familiar with a ranger dash. I will try to get a picture of it tomorrow, if I can remember.

I have a Boss BV9996B. It is a good unit, but no where in the manual does it talk about adjustments for it. I think I am just going to sell it, and get a double din. May be the best option. I thought about the vents before I got it, but figured it would come out farther than it does. I don't think any Single Din unit is going to work in my dash. It was worth a shot anyways.

Both metra and Shcose(sp) kits are the same for my truck. I am considering getting a double din after seeing how they are put in a 97 ranger. Just got to get rid of this unit before I do anything. Who makes the adapter ring for this problem? Would look into it more, if it will work with my truck.

Him and the rest of the "five" that are going to be suspended, entered into an agreement with Tressel, to come back next year and play. If they didn't, they weren't going to play in the Bowl game. Seniors even talked/voted on the matter to have them play in the bowl game as well. This way they serve their suspension, and don't flee to get away from it. Don't know if it is an actual contract. Personally think it is a smart move by OSU, to show that they are willing to punish their athletes instead of letting them go to NFL to get away from it.

I will see if I can get a picture of it over the weekend. It just sits to far back, to function properly. I do have the dash kit for my model truck, that was stated in the begging. I have not been able to find one, that would actually bring the HU farther out of the dash either. I don't really know what to do with it, but I will get pictures over the weekend, and see if I can't get them on here to make it more understandable.

As far as I know, there isn't a specific dash kit for the application. Double din is out of the question, because they don't have a detachable face most of the time. The ones that do, usually aren't worth getting from what I can gather. Really starting to aggravate me. I am very picky when it comes to this stuff. If there are any other suggestions, I am open to them. Would really like to keep it, but if I can't get it to fit better, I am going to get rid of it.

Anyone have an in-dash dvd player in a Ford ranger? I just got one, and put it in my 97 ranger. Anyone have suggestions on how to mount this damn thing? If I can't get it to sit better in the dash, I think I am going to sell the HU, and put the factory back in. I bought everything I needed to put it in, (dash kit, harness) wired it all up, put it in. The problem is, it sits to far back in the dash, to use the screen like it needs to be used. Kinda hard to have a dvd player screen point down and use it. Any ideas?

All just depends on what he finally decides to do. Can't go wrong with a 87-93 mustang though. Parts are everywhere for them, and you can actually find the 4cylinder bodies, and turn it into a 5.0 rather easy. I bought a 4cylinder off a buddy that blew the motor, and plan on restoring/modifying it the way I want to. Plans are to have a 87 vert mustang, with a 302 stroked to 347, 5 or 6 speed, with either twin turbo or a super charger. The hardest part on a fox body, is getting a car in good shape, and building the motor. If I go FI, it is going to be twin turbo. Carburetor, it is going to be supercharged.

Either one will do what you want. Personally, I am a ford fan. If you can find a ranger with the 4.0, they aren't that bad on gas. I just drove to Toledo over the weekend, and didn't have to put gas into the truck until I was just north of Columbus, on my way back. Almost 400miles out of the tank. Not to bad in my opinion. My truck is a 97 extended cab, 4x4 xlt with a 4.0 5speed. Given it isn't the best seating for passengers, but it gives you more room for the driver to adjust the seat, and gives some storage for stuff you don't want to put in the back. My dad bought the truck new in 97, and I got the truck from him in 07. The truck now has 155,000 miles. Still runs strong. Take care of the truck, and it will last. Only things that have had to be replaced were the brakes, clutch and thermostat. The truck sat for almost 2 years before I got it, so the mentioned parts fell apart when they started to be used again.

If you all come down this way for camping, there is the Shawnee forest camp grounds and Shawnee lodge. The lodge has a restaurant, pools, cabins, and looks over one of the lakes down here. If you just want to camp, there is a camp ground/trailer lot at the lower lake. Drinking isn't prohibited, and it has showers available as well. Just have to call in advance to see if space is available. From the lake, you are about 5-10 minutes from KY to do rides there, and about 45 minutes from WV. The camping/lodge is off 125 about 10 miles from 52. 125 is a nice road to ride as well. Plenty of hiking, fishing, and ridding around the forest roads overlooking the forest. Bars are about 10 minutes from the lakes, and alcohol is about the same. Do not plan on using cell phones though. No service until you get back on 52 a little bit.

If you use verizon for your email, then you may want to check and see when/if your account will be affected by the selling of rural accounts to "Frontier." I hadn't been receiving any emails, and had to send one out recently, and found out that I was already merged to the "new" system without notification. They did send an email to my verizon.net account, but I never got it because they had already merged to Frontier. What was bad, was that I had already talked to Verizon tech about my email, and they never bothered to say anything about it. They told me that they would look into it, and to check back in a day or so. Called back and they told me "everything looks fine, we don't know why you aren't getting any emails." Did some searching on the internet, and found out that Ohio is affected by the merge, and you have to change everything over to your new email that was already made. Needles to say a big pain in the ass. I have been sitting at the computer for several hours, changing my email settings with outlook express/all the forums I am part of/ebay/paypal etc.... I feel like blowing verizon head quarters up for the bull shit:mad:.