Tripleskate

Being so close to HQ, Teslas are everywhere in SoCal. On my commute to work (West L.A.), I regularly pass a dozen, each way. Range anxiety doesnt really exist, because our infrastructure easily supports the idea. Also, with the big state-wide group buy on 500EV, and the Chevy Spark EV, electric cars are everywhere. Heavily debated buying the 500E because it was so cheap, but too boring to drive. The D is a big step up from the regular P85, imo. Sounds like you drove an earlier car, the 2014(?)+ models have a revised interior. Although, it's not for everyone.

Seat time and tires. If you're a street tire guy, Hankook RS3, or Dunlop Z2 Star Spec depending on set up.

lol snow. another 65* here in commifornia. it's nice looking out of the office window and staring at the ocean.

Full cowling is already removed. I run a JB4 on the street and bypass it at the track due to temps - the JB4 "turns off" at 280*F oil temps. Have a catch can as well, fortunately, the car doesn't see much blow by.

Thanks for the various advice guys. I have noticed that a lot of people with domestic cars are using 165 or 180* t-stats. Is there any hard info out there on what a general "ideal" water temp is for modern aluminum engines? My short term plan is run mostly distilled water + WW or the like in the OE radiator and take it from there. I need to pull the bumper cover off and see if there is a way to optimize the OE oil cooler as well.

Water temps are okay, thats around t-stat temp (205) my main concern is stability/volatility and efficiency. I want make sure it stays closer to the 205 side of things versus higher. Oil temps are too high, and the OE oil cooler isn't doing enough. Id rather temps be closer to 250ish under hard use. Most OTS oils cant handle repeated abuse at 280*+ oil temps. Ran the BMS oil cooler valve, didn't help. Made the car never come up to temp on the street and didn't change peak values at the track. When I installed it, it looked to have reduced the restriction of the oil cooler opening/cavity, but the temp gauge don't lie (often), and it didn't seem to help.

As the title implies, the BMW is up for a quick cooling refresh, and I have been looking into running something beyond the normal 50/50 Anti-freeze. I live in SoCal, and it rarely touches 32*F so antifreeze isn't really necessary. I drive the car hard, with half a dozen (minimum) HPDEs and a full season of AutoX per year, so keeping the car running cooler is the chief concern. Right now, the car maintains ~205-215*F water temp and ~270-280*F oil temp under hard use, and ideally, I would like to see both of those numbers go down a bit. So who has used products like Engine Ice or the like, and has it been an effective purchase? Or should I plan on running mostly distilled water with some water wetter? TIA.

Don't bother with those SSR's, they bend if you look at them the wrong way. Just try plastidipping the wheels, its cheap, and removable if you don't like it. I dipped the wheels on my old DD and it came out great.

That commentary is great. That form is horrid.

Coming from someone who works in the repair industry, I would like to state that CarFax's interpretation of "frame damage" is quite liberal, that could be as minor as just setting the car up on the frame machine for measuring. Also, frame damage =/= salvage title or anything, shouldnt be that big of a deal.

I want to see how it goes with the GT350. Looks promising. Hellcat is not really relevant to my interests. Caddy looks like a great street car, but not a track ready toy.

As stated before, JB4 wakes these cars up BIG TIME. JB4 + Downpipes should roughly get you around your 385whp goal. Welcome to Team N54.

So, a Grand Marquis?

Mustang Driver made a poor decision, but on the plus side, he really couldn't get his apex off the nose of the Subaru much tighter. So at least he's got that going for him.

tune it. all the torque.

- GTi - Either the Ford ST cars - FRS - Honda Accord V6 6-speed - WRX The list goes on, you're sort of spoiled for choice on quickish/newish cars with warranty around 30k.

I could have delivered it for you. Private seller, or dealer?

wow the wheelhouse on that thing is fucked. I see the buckles in the quarters, thanks to the "magic markers" that body shops love to use. How bad is the floor? Can it pulled and straightened or are they putting a rear floor pan in it? FYI, at least out here, if you clearly see buckles in the pan right above the rail, the car likely needs a rail. Such a bummer about the accident. Give Ford a verbal lashing for this one.

100,000+ British Pounds. Real David v. Goliath scenario here...

Seriously, EBC Yellowstuff - the newer "R" compound is a great street pad that will take a beating.

Hawk DTC70, or Carbotech XP10. You're deaf, it'll be fine.

As someone with a 135i and serious 1Mvy, I agree with most of the list. The Tucker is too Jalop for me.

I reference this video every now and again when people post up GoPro footage of their/mine/someone else's shitty driving.

Post up pics of the wheels, can they really not be cleaned? I ran Hawk DTC70 race pads on the Bimmer full time and I can usually get my wheels to clean up decently.

My Thoughts: - If it missed the rail (upper "apron" or lower "frame/rail assembly" was not specified), it might well be fixer. - GENERALLY, if suspension components are contacted in any capacity, they are replaced f/ liability reasons. - Some vehicles, like your Caddi dont have standalone quarter panels available to be welded in, they come in entire unisides, like what Dan is explaining. However, isn't your car a front end hit, why are they looking at the quarter panel/uniside??? I see the fender, but what other side damage did your vehicle receive? Maybe I'm blind.