imagineer

Read the 1st post! These are NOT meant to provide continuous support, but are there just in case the car falls off the stands. 30 minutes of time and some scrap lumber is cheap insurance you won't get pinned under a car.

I'm sure this idea had been around since as long as folks have been working under cars, but I figured there might be even one person out there who would benefit from this PSA. If you are going to work under a car that is supported by jack stands, please take the time to make a set of "Body Blocks". These here are made from alternating layers of 2x12 & 2x4 with the wood grain going different directions on each layer. They're held together with 3" lumber screws attaching each layer. I opted to to not glue them together in case I want to add or remove a layer. To use them; once you have the car lifted and on the jack stands, simply slide these under the car where they will provide support should the car fall off the stands. They're not intended to provide continuous support of the car and are not to be used in place of proper jack stands. They are only there to give you a chance to escape should the car fall or the stands fail. I recently gave my original set of body blocks to my son and I'm about to spend a lot of time under a British sports car and so I took a half hour this morning and made a new set. This PSA is especially poignant today. Earlier this week, a local father of 2, 42 years old, was killed while working on his car. The car fell off the stands and pinned him to the garage floor. The poor guy wasn't killed quickly, rather suffocated slowly under the weight of the car while his wife and kids were inside the house.

Whereas I don't usually ride with the highbeam on, I do have these nifty LED lights that seem to get attention of other drivers. I believe they are 10 watt. Still, I choose to ride like I'm invisible and never trust that another driver/rider/pedestrian/whatever, is going to do what I expect.

Nope. It was less than a minute of abject stupidity on my part. Now checked off the bucket list. I typically drive too slow (according to Mrs. Imagineer).

I know the feeling... A few weeks ago I finished my Bandit project and after confirming it was safe, found myself turning east off Rt 57 onto Church Rd, (Orrville). A short term voluntary lack of judgement with a twist of the wrist was all it took to get to 130mph. new toys...

The parts are spoken for and no longer available

I didn't state that the tail light is OEM, only the pigtail attached has the OEM plug.

FREE - FREE - FREE (but there’s a catch..) These are take offs from my 2002 bandit project. The bike had been laid down and most of the plastics took a beating. What’s left is shown below: The rear frame covering. One side is cracked and a mounting tab is broken off, but the broken piece is included One side of the front fairing. It’s in decent shape with a small break at the bottom (under the B in Bandit) Inner fairing trim, good shape, no damage. A black vinyl tank bra/cover. Good shape, no tears. A set of rear passenger foot pegs, good shape, no damage Tail light housing with OEM pigtail. The license plate bulb is there but the brake/tail bulbs are not. Passenger grab rail, good shape, no damage. First person to show up gets everything. Here’s the catch. You have to take it all. It doesn't matter if you are only interested in one item. To get it for free,, you have to take the entire box of parts. I’m desperate for floor space in my workshop and all this will be in the trash by next Sunday (5/24) night if no one takes it before then. Send a PM with a phone # and I’ll call you back. For your reference, I'm south of Orrville, about a mile from the intersection at Rt 57 & Rt 30. Google "General Rental on Lincoln Way" for an idea of location

With the new cafe bike aesthetics on my Bandit project, I think the tail end is just a little too high, so I snuck a couple of files into the waterjet schedule last night and had two sets of suspension links cut from .250" aluminum. These links will lower the back end 1/2" or 1". Any advise/warnings for swapping out suspension links?

Although my 2002 Bandit 1200 runs like a scalded cat, it doesn't idle for crap. Suspecting the throttle position sensor might be part of the problem, I checked the resistance at full open and closed and the the value stayed constant at 5.4k ohm. As such, I'm 99% certain that the TPS is bad. Anyone know the part # (there's no markings other than 'Mikuni') or where online I can find a replacement part?

I like that... Nice little shit storm I stirred up?

Message sent.

School me on the correct method to lube a chain. This being my first and only chain drive motorcycle, I watched a couple of YouTube videos then went to town. I lifted the rear wheel such that I could turn it. I didn't have a chain cleaning bristle brush to use, so I sacrificed a couple of tooth brushes. Scrubbed and wiped the entire chain twice. While rotating the wheel forward, sprayed a small amount of chain lube (Maxima Chain Guard) on the top surface of the chain feeding into the rear sprocket. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes then wiped off the excess. Rode to work this morning and now the swing arm and hub are spattered with wet oil. It's not soaked, just spattered. Did I use too much oil, or is this typical?

The rear wheel cover that's on the bike in this pic.

Maroon sucks. My daughter saw a metallic green Mini Cooper she thought was nice so that's her vote. She even went online to find the paint code and a resource. Mrs. Imagineer wants me to paint it like the Eleanor Mustang, but she also wants me to do a V8 conversion.

This is a long shot, but I figure it’s worth trying . . . Anyone out there have a Memphis Shades batwing fairing they want to sell for cheap $$? I want to try out an oddball aerodynamics modification and don’t have the guts to cut up the perfectly good fairing on my bike now. I’m hoping to find another batwing fairing that is made from Lucite so I can eventually graft my mod onto my existing fairing (should my idea actually work). Specific fairing model or condition doesn't really matter. It can be broken, cracked, scratched or generally beat to sh1t. I don’t need the windshield or hardware, just the fairing.

I've still got the stock front fender (which I think looks hideous). I'm including it and a rear wheel cover, the stock center stand and stock bars and risers with the sale of the bike. ---> http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/5018072262.html

They came with with the Renthal 996 bars, ($45 off Craigslist). I'm fairly certain they are Rental brand as well. The bolts are 10mm, so I had to drill out the stock bandit rubber isolators to work.

I'm in Orrville not too far from Massilon...and thanks very much for the offer. Honestly, as is, this is too much bike for me (I usually ride a slow, fat tire, old man cruiser). I bought this bandit with the intention of fixing it up, making some mods (impressing myself) and then selling it for a profit. If you know anyone looking for a unique ride, I'm asking $3000 for it.

No. It's stock except for a K&N filter & re-jet (from the original owner). Despite the 43K miles on it, it runs really well, doesn't leak or smoke, so why mess with it. Besides, it has no problem pulling the front wheel off the ground (which I preferred not to do), or hitting 130 mph without even breathing heavy (that was intentional ).

It's been a while, but my 2002 Bandit ''naked-cafe-fighter" project is finally done! After a shake down ride, I took it for a 20 mile blast. Good grief this thing is fast!. I'm half tempted to not sell it, but I need the funds and shop space for the next project.

Any MG enthusiasts out there? Only because I needed one more project to fill the spare 30 minutes I have each month, I picked up a 1978 MGB recently. I think I got a good deal, but won’t know until I start tearing into it. The Bad: The car, although ran well when pulled into the storage locker 7 years ago, hasn’t moved or been started since. It needs a new gas tank, fuel pump and fuel lines. Will most likely need new brake lines. I’m told by the seller than the reinforcements under the rockers are rusted and will need repaired. The Good: There are a bunch of uninstalled new parts that come with the car, including: A new Weber 2 barrel carburetor with manifold A new exhaust header New exhaust pipe (no muffler) New rear springs, shocks & bushings New front calipers and rotors. 4 new MG alloy mag rims with brand new tires installed New (authentic) MG seat upholstery covers (tan) New matching door panels New carpet (including trunk carpet) A set of 4 car dollies I think for only $1500, it was a good buy. My plan is to, after its running and safe to drive, ditch the ugly rubber bumpers and do a chrome bumper conversion, then paint it British racing green. I’ve got until next April to have it running safe and looking pretty (the daughter wants to drive it to her prom next year)

The roof box is sold

Does a pistol come with it?

Any skiers/snowbards out there? I'm clearing space and selling off some of my ski/snowboard gear. Going now is a near perfect condition, Thule Cascade 676XT roof box, $100. It's the long narrow version and opens from both sides. It's a little 'sticker bombed' at the moment (including an "OhioRiders" decal on the back). There are no cracks or scratches. The mounting hardware is great, no tools are required. I originally chose this one because it's a more narrow box, there was space on the rack for a mountain bike mount too. Being narrow and having a smaller cross section, there's less wind drag and noise as well. I'm only selling it because when I ski, I bring 2 pairs of skis and 2 snowboards for me as well as my daughters ski gear and needed a larger roof box. There are pics in my Craigslist ad. http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/for/4958370285.html