imagineer

It's time to get serious about work shop space, so I'm culling out some of my "round-to-it" projects. Up for grabs is a fairly large, extremely heavy, tall Powermatic drill press. I was going to cut it down and make it a dedicated bench top tapping machine, but I'm desperate for shop space (again) and this is simply in the way. I don't have actual pictures of it or a model #, but will get them and update this post tonight. It looks like the yellow one in this web page. http://www.murdochleaks.org/how-to-choose-the-best-drill-press/ The good: It works** It's free The bad: There's no base There's no work table **It probably needs a new motor start capacitor (it runs, but sometimes you have to grab the chuck and manually help it start spinning. My experience is this usually means a start capacitor). Only one of 3 handles It's heavy as heck (I'm not kidding, you'll need a friend or an engine lift to off load this at home. I want it gone this weekend. First person to commit, gets it. Reply or PM me with a phone # or email. It's located approx 1 mile south of the intersection of Rt 57 and Rt 30 (south of Orrville).

I spent time under the Jeep last night, basically surveying the frame and what's left of the exhaust. There is one obvious patch done, passenger side, just ahead of the rear wheel hump. Other than that, the frame and floors look fine. I even went all Norman Bates/Psycho with a screwdriver trying to poke through and both the floor and frame are solid. The exhaust on the other hand . . . The WTF moment was when I found that someone welded the large skid plate (that's supposed to be removable) directly to the frame. I've read that this is a path forward for some lazy folks when the nutserts in the frame spin out and there's no way to easily hold the skid plate onto the frame. Although welded with a stick welder (doesn't look like MIG), I'm fairly certain I'll be able to cut it free without taking any metal off the frame. I've got a few ideas for returning it to bolt-on status. I should add, I drove it to work today. Other than falling out (caught my foot on the elevated door sill) and a loose battery cable at lunch, it's a decent (albeit noisy) little ride.

Correct, its a 2.5, with 165k on the clock. The mechanicals will get a freshen up if needed (I've read some stuff about cam chains and tensioners & such), but if the motor is going to take a lot of $ or effort just to bring it back to stock performance, I'll probably just pick up another 2.5 and swap it out. They seem to be plentiful The current scope is simple...After making sure it's safe and fixing the rust and dent, adding 1.75" coils spring pads (maybe a .5" body lift too), go up a tire size to 30" tall rubber, ditch the stock alloys and get a set of black Cragar Soft 8's. Somewhere in there I'm sure there will be some frame patching. In reality, this Jeep will probably never see off road use under my ownership (not counting driving in or out of a campground). This going to be just a light-ish duty, weekend, open top errand runner and summer evening date mobile for the Missus and I. Also, both my kids are eager for their turn with it.

I figure I'd share a pic . . . in all its road salt encrusted Jeep-ly goodness.

I think when she said "no money", she meant "no money for the Jeep project". She had big plans (Small Block conversion, 6" lift, heavier dana axles, 33" tires, etc).

With this '97 TJ, I simply got lucky (or at least I hope so). The seller, a woman in her late 20's, bought it for a project while she was married to a Jeep enthusiast. The marriage ended badly and according to her, she walked away with some bad furniture, no money, all their debt . . . and this Jeep. Basically, she just wanted to be rid of it. I traded a $1500 bike (that i had only $1100 into) for a legitimate $3000 Wrangler. And on top of that, she threw in a pair of aftermarket fenders and left the brand new Pioneer bluetooth stereo. Aside from new tires and maybe an exhaust tailpipe, this appears to be a solid Jeep.

The Bandit is gone...swapped up even for a running/driving '97 TJ.

I ended up with a set of fitness earbuds from J-Lab. They're not ones that I would have selected (a little chunky), but Mrs. Imagineer heard me whine about needing a set so she found and online deal and ordered them to surprise me. So far, they sound great, but don't stay in all that well. Hopefully, using the smaller cushions provided will make the fit better. I'm really looking forward to using them skiing.

The thought occurred that I'd probably have more fun in an open top Jeep than at warp speed on the Bandit. So, anyone out there have a Wrangler or a CJ-7 (complete or a project) they're looking to trade? http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/bar/5392954056.html

No, it's not a New Year's Resolution, but I started (back in October) working out again. For cardio, I have an elliptical and a treadmill located in a 3 season room off one end of the house and I alternate them each day (keeps my post-middle age knees happy). Both machines are mind-numbingly boring to use, so I put a TV in the room to help make the 30 minutes each morning a little less boring. The problem is I get up at 5am to workout, and don't want to disturb the rest of the family still sleeping. Does anyone out there have experience with, or can make a recommendation for bluetooth earbuds made for running? I'm fairly certain I can get a bluetooth transmitter for the TV.

Quick update...I decided to forego the LCP .380 and hold out for one that fits my hand better. Although at ~$200, it is a good value, the LCP frame is just too small. Looking at the Smith & Wesson M&P Shield .40 now.

Thanks for the input.

Ruger LCP .380 . . . Good or cheap gun? I'm looking at one as a replacement conceal carry gun for my S&W Sigma .40.

What is the common wisdom about leaving the front suspension in full droop for an extended time (as it would be by use of the triple tree clamp)? I recall hearing somewhere that it's not good to leave the forks at full extension and carrying the weight of the front wheel assembly. I have a lift table and home made fixtures for raising the front or rear (or both) for wheel service when needed. What I'm going for here is just a means of storing the bike, off the tires, for the winter.

Reluctantly, I’m preparing to put the toys away for their winter naps and would like to store the Bandit on stands. I picked up two HF steel cheapies; and the one for the swing arm fits and works just fine. I’ll have to fabricate some sort of adapters to use the same basic stand for the front end of the bike. In looking around the interweb, I’ve seen basically two approaches for lifting at the bottom of the forks. One uses two horizontal pins that ‘cradle’ the bottom of the fork slider. The mounting plate for these pins can rotate freely. The other approach used a single (fixed) pin that engages a hole in the bottom surface of the slider. Which is the preferred method? Does anyone use spool style stands and lift via the front axle?

This is an example of why I moved from Massachusetts 25 years ago. The bureaucracy in Mass. makes California seem passive and New Jersey seem honest.

Anyone out there have an internet based home automation system? I want to pick up a system that will allow me to be able to turn on a 1 amp ceiling fan using an iPhone via the internet. I fixed the drainage system at my house such that the basement doesn't flood anymore, but when we get a heavy rain, the basement (and eventually the rest of the house) still smell awful (septic). I want the ability to use my iPhone to remotely turn on a big exhaust fan in the basement when bad weather is expected. I've been reading up on the Insteon systems and they look like what I need, and can be expanded.

I set a budget of $1000 and ended up spending around $1600 (typical estimate error for my projects). I'm not a carpenter or a builder (and it's a miracle I've still got 9.7 fingers), but I can make AutoCAD drawings of anything, so I was able to develop drawings to follow. The porch floor and roof are bolted to the main house such that it would be easier to move if needed.

Followed the advise of Norm Abrams on "This Old House"... 1. Purposely bought T1-11 siding that had been stored outside (84 Lumber) so it was 'seasoned' New siding has a natural wax that although helps prevent rot, will also prevent paint or preservative from soaking in. 2. Primed using Zinsser123 oil based primer, tinted to match the top coat color. 3, Top coated with Sherwin Williams "Superpaint" (I hate painting so I figured I'd buy the best paint available and hope it lasted); and yes, paid attention to be sure to seal the cut ends of the siding. According to Norm, if you're building with new T1-11 siding, after you are done with construction, soak it with Thompsons Watersealer and let it dry for at least 2 weeks, then topcoat or stain, (or hit it with another round of Thompsons). FWIW, I've repainted the white trim 3 times since '05 but only repainted the siding once, last spring. The only purchased items on that playhouse were the double hung windows. Everything else (door, trim, flower boxes, loft, ladder) I made by hand.

I'll beg to differ on the T1-11 siding. I built this playhouse for the littlest Imagineer back in 2005 and the T1-11 siding, and treated plywood floor are holding up well. Only the pine trim pieces have shown rot The playhouse has since been converted to a potting shed for Mrs. Imagineer and I added a full size screen door to the south wall. That said, I'll make a recommendation for going with a wood shed & build your own. You have more options for fitting out the interior to suit your needs. You also have more options for making it more secure.

I need a new OR shirt (XL). The one I bought suffered a horrible MIG welding death.

If you don't mind a bit of a wait, get breakfast at DeLuca's in the strip district. Food is great, portions are huge and prices are reasonable.

Benadryl cocktails, all around.

Speaking on behalf of my '08 & '01 Outbacks, they've both been decent cars. Great winter cars, although in my opinion, not optimum for long distance travel (OH to MA or FL). They get mediocre gas mileage and are a bit noisy inside. I've had the '08 for going on 3 years. It's at 160k miles and is, I'm sure, overdue for a timing belt. The steering rack leaks a bit on the exhaust and stinks of burning oil when sitting still. Also, every exhaust heat shield rattles at different RPM's. When I stop being lazy and replace the steering rack and timing belt, I'll deal with the heat shields. I bought the '01 a year ago for my teen daughter and did the timing belt right away (@140k miles). Other than a recent round of expensive diagnostics to find a bad air/fuel ratio sensor, the car has been maintenance free. I've been told the 2.5 SOHC is a tough engine and will give 200k trouble free miles. Let's hope that is the case because with 4 years of college tuition staring me in the face, I'm hoping to not buy any new cars in the near future. I'll also add for those looking at replacing a timing belt on a Subaru, it's a piece of cake on the SOHC engine. The hardest part is loosening the crank pulley bolt.

The front tire on my bagger (probably the '05 OEM tire) has got major side wall cracks and needs to be replaced. Can anyone recommend a M/C tire shop in the Wooster or Massillon area? My go-to shop in Massillon, Pinwall cycle apparently doesn't do tire service anymore