imagineer

http://ohioriders.net/index.php?/topic/106707-hot-glue-dent-removal/#entry1426375

Forgot to add the after pic...

What to do when it’s too cold to work outside and you have a few hours to kill? Remove dents from a motorcycle tank of course (in the basement where there is heat and coffee). One of the cosmetic to-do items on this 2002 Bandit I’ve been working on is to repair a small dent in the left side of the tank. I’m terrible at bodywork and am “bondo” challenged so I didn’t want to just fill the dent. I needed to somehow pull or push out the dent to make it less deep. I looked into Paintless Dent Removal, but the tools are expensive and the only local body shop that offers it refused to work on a motorcycle tank. Internet research pointed me to hot glue dent pulling. Again, the tools are way too expensive for the scope of this dent repair, so I settled on the hot glue dent puller kit from Harbor Freight (item #66957). Not surprising, the kit sucked and didn’t work at all. The two dent lifters in the kit are made from some kind of plastic that the hot glue doesn’t stick to, so in order to develop any tension, I had to build up a huge blob of hot glue on top of the dent lifter to encapsulate the lifter. Whereas this technique worked, both dent lifters broke on the first use. Not one to give up, I decided to make my own version of all metal dent lifters from random ¼-20 hardware. I used various carriage bolts and wide flat head bolts. I ground the heads flat and them drilled holes to provide a place for the glue to push through and provide more strength for dent lifting. One of the distinct differences between the harbor freight dent kit and the expensive professional kits is the pro kits use a tool that allows you to quickly apply tension to the glued dent lifters and then let off. You do this action over and over and actually “coax” the metal into moving before the glue joint fatigues and breaks. The Harbor Freight kit uses a threaded knob to apply consistent tension. What happens with their kit is the glue joint fatigues and breaks before the metal can move. Unwilling to give in and buy an expensive kit, I decided to try and ‘invent’ my own. It turns out that some time ago, I purchased a threaded insert install tool from Harbor Freight (item # 1210). This tool is capable of installing ¼-20 inserts so with the addition of a ¼-20 coupler nut, I was able to use this tool with the cross bar from the dent puller kit and my homemade dent lifters and, to my surprise, it worked. I appolgize for not having a better before picture, or pictures showing the progression of the dent being lifted, but to be honest, I didn’t think it would work. I few closing thoughts… The glue gun provided in the kit is weak and wouldn’t heat the glue enough to make it really liquid. I had another glue gun and used it instead. The glue sticks (3) provided in the kit are not the best for the job. After cooling, the glue was still very pliable and flexed easily. Along with the old glue gun, I also had two different types of glue sticks (not sure of the specs though). I found that the sticks that were more rigid (and yellowish) seemed to work better than flexible ones (that were clear). The Harbor Freight instructions say to wait only 10 seconds before pulling the dent. Nope, give the glue 5 minutes or longer to cool before pulling on the lifter. I suppose I could have sprayed water on the glue to cool it quicker, but the 5+ minute delay facilitated drinking coffee. The acetone provided in the Harbor Freight really does work to assist at removing the residual glue, but if you also clean the surface with rubbing alcohol, the hot glue seems to adhere much better.

PM Sent

Yes. I'll weigh it later today and PM you a shipping cost.

For sale, a complete rear fender for a Suzuki C90 or a VL1500. $150.00 obo. Can be picked up in Orrville. This came of a 2005 C90, but it will fit other earlier and later years. It would also be a good platform for making a custom fender. It will fit over a 200mm wide tire. It is in very good condition and the original black paint is in good shape. There are no dents where the would be visible. There is a small (see picture) dent that would end up being under the passenger seat. The fender is complete with all working brake light, turn signals and and a license plate holder. The electrical connector is intact and unmolested. I also have the chrome brackets for attaching the fender to the bike frame for $50/pair.

All 3 of my cars have now decided to join the check engine light club. Has anyone out there had any luck with the Harbor Freight ODB II scan tools?

The Yoshi muffler is sold.

For sale, a Yoshimura Carbon Fiber Muffler for a sport bike. $50. I don't see a model# but the body of the muffler is about 20" long and the inlet is 2.25" or about 56mm. It was originally installed on a 2002 Suzuki Bandit 1200. It's in near perfect condition and has no scratches or dings. Included are the two springs for holding the muffler to the mid-pipe. It can be picked up in Orrville.

No, just tired of having to move it around the shop. I got it for free in 2000 and have used it once since I just sold it to a guy who drove over an hour to get it.

Quick update, the part number on the label was for a different windshield. This windshield is part MEP8561 and is 9" tall.

Up for sale an older Lincoln AC-225 Stick Welder, 240v. $75 obo. It's old and dirty but works fine. The electrode holder and work clamp are new. There is a rod holder included that contains a bunch of welding rods. Also included is the custom made roller base. It can be picked up in Orrville, 44667 I'll plug it in and let you weld a bead to prove it works

Up for grabs, a 12"Spoiler Windshield for a Memphis Shades Batwing Fairing, $50 + shipping. It will ship or can be picked up in Orrville, zip code 44667. The windshield is part 2310-0308. I bought this used, installed it for one ride, but went back to using my shorty windshield. It looks brand new; does not have any scratches or defects. The color is smoke gray. No mounting hardware is included, but you can find what you need at any hardware store. I will include 3 small plastic grommets that allow you to use smaller, less noticeable hardware. Paypal preferred.

I'm told there's already one on it (and yes, the rear wheel touches the ground when the bike is on the center stand) Thanks for all the input...the center stand will be gone this weekend.

To keep the center stand or not to keep the center stand; that is the question… I’m finally getting into my Bandit 1200 project and I’ve determined that I don’t have the required space for the custom belly pan muffler idea (think Buell) I’ve been toying with. If I remove the center stand, it frees up more under belly real estate that can be used for custom muffler and resonator chamber. What pro’s and con’s are there to removing the center stand and just relying on the side stand? FWIW, I have a HF table lift and a homemade scissor jack for getting the bike and/or rear wheel off the ground. I’m also planning on eventually making axle lifts for both the front and rear wheels.

Sold.

bump...I really need the floor space in my shop... Lowering price to $300.

She runs alright, but I wouldn't try to catch any air. It's a power slides like crazy when the grass is wet. FWIW, soon I'll be replacing the drive sprockets and chain. I put it on my bike lift last night to show a prospective buyer and noticed the two sprockets are worn.

Up for sale, a well used Manco Dingo Go-cart, $400 obo. Located south of Orrville. The kids have outgrown it so it's just taking up space now. It has a Tecumseh 6.0hp motor and runs well. It doesn't smoke or leak. The torque converter belt was replaced last season and has only a few hours use. The tires are in good shape with a lot of tread left. The drive chain is probably due for replacement This will fit in the bed of a small pickup.

Up for grabs, a working headlight off a 2002 Suzuki Bandit 1200S (GSF1200S) . . . $30 + shipping. Both bulbs are included and I've confirmed they both work. I'll include the plugs with approx. 6-8" of wire. The plastic is in good shape with no major scratches.

Still waiting to hear on a price. The forum is not letting you receive PMs and your email link doesn't work either.

I may take you up on that offer. Can you ballpark a price to shoot semi-gloss clear on a set of tins?Batwing fairingFront and Rear FenderSide CoversGas Tank Side CoversMutazu TrunkHard side bags I'd bring you all the parts off the bike and pre-scuffed.

Questions for any experienced body work or paint persons out there . . . I don't like shiny and I am thinking spraying the painted parts on my black Suzuki C90 with matte clear. I'm thinking of using Duplicolor Paint Shop Finish System BSP307, Matte Clear. I’m looking for a wash and wear finish that doesn’t call for wax. The gloss paint on my bike is in decent shape, but could use a good buffing (lots of tiny scratches). Last winter I painted the batwing, rear fender, hard bags and trunk. The tank and side covers and front fender are all OEM paint. Question 1: Is the Duplicolor paint shop line OK, or is there a better or recommended matte clear coat that is proven tough? Question 2: Should I wet sand or scuff pad the painted surfaces to prepare for the clear coat. If wet sanding is the better approach, what grit?

I try not to speak in hyperbole, or in absolutes, but last night I witnessed the best guitar player I have ever seen. A young kid named Jake Buckridge played with a band out of the Massillon area called "Vex". This kid was not only lightning fast and precise, but he performed with total confidence. Keep an eye out for them, if you get a chance to see him perform, you're in for a treat.

Got my shirt. I like it!