8Rider6

Lol, why is that? That, a VFR, or BMW R 1200RT would probably be my top picks.

You might want to rephrase that http://s3.amazonaws.com/theoatmeal-img/mmb/boobs/d_cup.jpg

This... It's like people get pissed you're using a vehicle that's small enough to fit places theirs can't and they get mad about it... Stupid. I'd be all for lane splitting, but I don't think I'd do it except around the city under 25mph, and I believe in Cal. and maybe around the world it's supposedly only legal to do under 25mph (this would exclude emergency situations like described above, however).

No mention of the FJR1300? I don't personally have any experience with these bikes, but I would like to get a sport-touring bike eventually, and from what I've read, the FJR is hard to beat. My 919 is tough for me to go more than ~150-200 miles in a shot, and that would include a short ~10 min break about half way through, but I think I could probably do ~400-500 a day if I decided to go on a few day trip with a few breaks each day.

I love the orange/black GSX-R 750's... I think I've made my mind up when I get a new bike as primarily a track bike, that will be it.

X-Element Leather Jacket, Fieldsheer Mercury 2 Pants, and Alpinestar Drystar gloves. I try not to get caught in the rain if I can though, but on a long, or all day trip, I pack for it.

Any zombie motorcycle response "unit" like this lacking chainsaws, and/or other blades on the side of the bike is a joke. See left bike: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1026/4724218075_e6dcc98fcb.jpg Unfortunately I can't seem to find any pics of something like that mocked up on a real bike for show.

Yep, my white one pictured above is the turbo. After having both, the turbo needless to say is the way to go, IMO. With the Elantra GT, I sort of feel like the N/A Veloster is almost pointless besides looking better, and maybe a few interior features the GT is missing, but not 100% sure.

I had the 2012 model, Dual clutch. Wasn't crazy about the dual clutch transmission since it was a little laggy getting going from a start. Not bad, you just had to adjust and hit the accelerator a little early to give it time to get into 1st. 5 months after I got it (was my first new car ever, after getting my first job out of college), I got rear ended by an uninsured driver on my way to work while I was completely stopped at a red light on Hamilton. He had at least a good ~40-50+ car lengths to see stopped traffic, no idea wtf he was doing. Probably messing around on his phone. Anyway, in February I ended up with a 2013 Manual Turbo version. Since my dealerships worked with our family a lot, I got a very good deal on my trade in (over blue-book despite being in an accident). I love the turbo, seat warmers, adjustable lumbar support, all leather seats, etc. Here it is: Rear, not my car obviously: Not the fastest or best handling hatch, but unless they're going to bring the VW Scirocco or Renault Megane 265 RS state side, this is more or less the next best thing. Plus, it's pretty fully loaded cheaper than more performance oriented cars like the Focus ST and Mazdaspeed 3. It's enough for me to have fun with for a cage and is a good daily driver, plus the warranty can't be beat. Hyundai's improved vastly in the last 5-10 years. The Elantra has won car of the year from a few publications a few years in a row I believe.

Interesting, reminds me of Explosions in the Sky a bit. Haven't heard of them before. Anyway, feeling "retro"

Yes, but it's not a "safe following distance of 50 feet" if they still rear-ended someone... A safe following distance is the distance required to brake and NOT hit the vehicle in front of you, regardless of when or why they hit their brakes. Even before I starting riding, I always gave motorcycles more space because they can stop faster. Also bike riders often tend to be more unpredictable than cars (squids, etc).

This may be simply a case of the battery being dead. I also have the Hero 3 Black Edition. When I first got it, the battery was very close to empty. Charging it isn't very straightforward either... I left it plugged in via USB on my computer overnight and it didn't really charge it. You pretty much have to use a wall charger. Right now I use a wall charger to USB while the battery's in the camera. I've also read you should turn the camera on (if possible) while it charges, otherwise connect it so the red light in front is on to charge until you can turn it on, then turn it on and let it charge the rest of the way (so the LCD screen has a progress animation). The best sure fire bet it to get this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-AHDBT-201-AHDBT-301/dp/B00AAIPT76/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1362456742&sr=8-1&keywords=wasabi+gopro+hero3 Unfortunately I bought one and haven't been able to find it for a while, but it's a great price for 2 extra batteries (slightly higher capacity than normal), a wall charger, and car charger converter... I might just order another, then I'll have a total of 6 batteries when I find the other. I also have a Contour +2. The Hero 3 Black Edition has better video quality hands down as it's got a better image processor. Low light, color, and smoothness are all better. The Hero 3 can do 1080 at 60FPS, 720p at 120FPS, and 480p (840x480 I believe) for short clips at 240fps, so it has some nice slow motion capabilities. However, I think contour is easier to use, and its profile works much better as a helmet camera. I would suggest the Contour Roam 2 for overall price and quality as a helmet cam, but the Roam doesn't have a removable battery like the +2, which can be quite limiting. If I'm riding, I often like to carry some spare batteries to swap out. Currently, I'll be using the Contour as my helmet cam, and the GoPro mounted elsewhere on the bike (lower fork for now).

Awesome, just one question, where do I get his contract info (phone or email)? Their site http://www.pegramracing.com/index.php doesn't have much info. Only thing I can find is his twitter account, which I guess I could sign up for if I need to, but never gotten into the twitter thing.

So, I have an F3 rear shock and F4i forks coming for my 2002 919. I'm probably going to want to have both of them rebuilt and adjusted for my weight. The F4i forks I'll want new seals, oil, and Race Tech springs, etc. Are the any good shops around here to have that done? Someone I know mentioned he takes all his stuff to a guy in Indianapolis, but I'd prefer somewhere/someone local if there are some reputable places you guys can recommend. Other than that, the only places I've heard of are Max Performance and Handing up around Cleveland, but I've read a few reviews that were negative, and a member here said they'd go to the place across the street before MPH. I was planning on just dropping off the forks and rear shock, but I currently don't have a stand besides the wheel stands, and those aren't going to work for installing the forks and rear shock myself. So, what would be the most economical way to stand the bike up for that installation, or would it just be better to take the bike in as well and have a shop handle it completely? Besides the suspension, I'll also be getting new tires, chain and sprockets (15, 45) within the new couple months or so. Pretty sure I'll be able to handle the chain and sprockets.

Congrats, good to see you went with that after the one thread... I can't wait for the weather to break... Although I do need to do a lot... Got new front forks and rear shock on the way, I'll need to have them rebuilt and adjusted for my weight... Then I need new tires, chain and sprockets too. After that I'll be golden for a while besides oil changes and chain adjustment.

I had that same issue with a Vega (gasp) that a co-worked gave me when I got my first bike. I was borrowing my brother in laws helmet til then. I was planning to get one, but he offered and I was a little strapped for cash at the time (got the bike originally when gas went to $4.00+ per gallon). After about 30 minutes of riding it started to hurt my head a bit to wear.

If I had to say, it'd definitely be Aria. I tried on a Shoei RF-1100 at the same time and it felt terrible for me, same with a Nolan that I tried on (I think it was the N-85). The Arai(forget which model) felt very similar to the Bell RS-1 to me. My head's more of a long oval shape.

I'm in the same boat as Blitz... I can do basic maintenance on my bike, oil change, chain adjustment, etc. However, I need to get the suspension rebuilt and/or upgraded in the front, and a new shock in the rear. I'm not really comfortable messing around with that on my own. I'm also due to change the chain and sprockets soon as well (could maybe used a valve adjustment too, not really sure what to look for regarding that). My brother in laws helped me with learning to do oil changes and chain adjustments, spark plugs, etc, but his experience beyond that is a bit limited, though he's more mechanically inclined than I am. We did bleed my front brakes one night as well, which was a learning experience for both of us. He said he's willing to work on the suspension and chain/sprockets with me, but given that neither of us are very experienced with it might mean my bike being out of service for a while. I did see there's a shop up somewhere around north-east Ohio that does suspension work/upgrades and I'm wondering if it'd be worthwhile to take it there for that. It was on Race Tech's website: http://racetech.com/page.aspx?id=35&menuid=94 Maximum Performance and Handling Peninsula, Ohio Doug Duane Scheibner Mega-M.A.X. 330.922.8000 Doug@MPHOhio.com

Did you look into our RidersDiscount board sponsor, Nathan? I got a good deal on a new RS-1 with him... I love the RS-1, best fitting, most comfortable helmet I've ever owned, or tried on. I personally think the RS-1 is worth it over an HJC... I also got an HJC CL-16 at the same time as a backup/passenger helmet. It's good, but definitely not as good as the RS-1, and not a ton cheaper than you can get through Nathan.

I may be in depending on the dates and my bike's current state of affairs (tires & suspension).

How is this jacket in the summer? I currently have an X-Element leather jacket that has a removable liner and it's quite hot to wear in the summer (even w/ the liner out), but it's non-perforated. Is this one fairly cool, or should I just keep looking for a textile for summer? I'm 5'10" ~220lbs, my current jacket is a size XL, which they have defined: Men's Motorcycle Leather & Textile Jackets Size S M L XL 2XL 3XL 4XL 5XL 6XL Chest 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 Waist 42 43 45 46 47 49 50 52 54 However, that doesn't really seem very accurate since neither the chest or waist for the XL are close to me, or what I wear in other clothes.

I don't know about these, but the NC700X and NC700S I find interesting. They seem like affordable fun all-rounders with good features. The storage compartment where the fuel tank normally is being able to carry a full face helmet is pretty awesome. It's not an all out powerhouse, but it seems fast enough for overall use, having some fun and gets great mileage. If they had a version of it that had slightly more power, ~20-30hp I'd be a lot more tempted, but I might change my mind with a test ride.

Here's what I use on my 919 (boxed in red). It's a RAM mount that's placed around the fork. Works very well and is a pretty cool angle, see video here:

You know... For a while I was so fixated on having an internal sun visor, I almost ignored other aspects of a helmet like fit, how clear the visor was, visor action, fogging, etc... Now neither of the helmets I use have an internal shield... On my Bell, I have the transition visor; problem solved. On my HJC, I have a mirror visor and a clear visor,with pinlock inserts (clear and smoked)... I don't really miss the internal shield now. My helmets fit much better, provide better vision, comfort, and ventilation. That GT Air does look nice however... I may have to look into one when I'm looking into another helmet, but that'll be quite a while.

Which Bell do you have? I got the RS-1 and I love it. I tried a Shoei RF-1100 on and it did not fit my head at all, so I guess that could be a big factor.