3.504

I've installed tons of these systems.

They've been out for years.

You can bypass them easily, but that voids contract and they repo your car. (It's also boarder line considered stolen at that point.)

The system only interrupts starter signal. So stalling your engine in traffic or any time while running is complete horse flop. They can disable anytime, but you won't be affected until you shut the car off yourself (it won't restart).

If you do find yourself stranded, not able to start the car, in a dangerous or unsafe place, or even if your just flat out not home, you can call a number, they'll temporarily turn it on, and you can go home. It's in the contract.

It's really not a big deal. The system is completely hidden from view. No one would know you have it.

The system also acts like a low jack incase your car is stolen, so not all bad.

I've installed tons of these systems.

They've been out for years.

You can bypass them easily, but that voids contract and they repo your car. (It's also boarder line considered stolen at that point.)

The system only interrupts starter signal. So stalling your engine in traffic or any time while running is complete horse flop. They can disable anytime, but you won't be affected until you shut the car off yourself (it won't restart).

If you do find yourself stranded, not able to start the car, in a dangerous or unsafe place, or even if your just flat out not home, you can call a number, they'll temporarily turn it on, and you can go home. It's in the contract.

It's really not a big deal. The system is completely hidden from view. No one would know you have it.

The system also acts like a low jack incase your car is stolen, so not all bad.

Cool concept/product, but that is a metric shit-ton of cash for 5 box-end wrenches. I'd feel a lot better about their longevity, too, if they were 6-pt instead of 12-pt….

A set of snapons runs $300. And they're regular old regular.

I really don't see much of a purpose in carrying around a wrench set. In most cases you can't even remove the seat with a wrench. If you need to carry more tools than what's required to access the battery, you should consider a different motorcycle.

If you have the means to carry extra stuff on the bike:

These are strong enough to start a v8 and I've heard of some guys using the 400A version to crank a diesel truck.

I have one and its really awesome. I throw it in the truck for track days and what not. It will charge cell phones, tablets, laptops, gopro's and whatever other what not.

Just food for thought.

Well your lucky, I bet you can just shimmy it back under there too, you've got more of a gap/straight pathway to under your seat, mines to tight around the seat. But I'm satisfied with what I've got for now, ill see how it works.

Also I just mounted and wired up a 12V outlet to battery for my phone charger, is it a bad idea to not have a fused link in there with that or should it be okay without one?

Most definitely fuse it!

If the insulation on the hot side of that power socket degrades for whatever reason, it will burn your bike to the ground with a quickness. Fuse it, fuse it on the hot side close to the battery post, and fuse it ASAP!

I'm riding two up on a papaw bike. Mark me down for slow group.

If anyone needs to: my bike usually has room in the saddles/top case for stuff.

I will have a tire plug kit, small first aid kit, electric tire pump, portable battery jump box, and can carry some extra fuel.

If I wear fluorescent vests and put a few more fog lights on, I will be the nerdiest person there.

My BMW is basically a goldwing with a BMW badge (k1200lt) so I have a glove box in the "tank" area right in front of the rider seat. That's where I installed my controller and ran power wires in/under everything to the battery.

Before I had this BMW, I was considering making a bar mount for the controller and running the harness through a loom to tidy things up.

As far as how I plug into the controller: my extensions that run to the suit are tucked in the glove box described before and I just extend them out and shut the glove box door on them (I notched the door for this) whenever I need to plug in.

If I were running on a different bike, I'd keep the extension cords with the suit and go about it that way.

Basically, there's no way to avoid wires, but at least you won't have to carry the controller in your pocket. Mounting the controller means its easier to adjust temp on the fly.

I'll be there.

This will be my first group ride with OR.

Agreed - perfect first bike

http://ohioriders.net/index.php?/topic/105924-1992-suzuki-g500/

I know a great 05 gs500 for $2200

Really nice bike

Crappy pics:

I have the first gear stuff. It's quality. I think out the door for glove liners, pants, jacket, and controller went around $400-450

I cut the power connector off and soldered on a battery tender lead, so I could use it on all of my bikes/pretty much any bike.

I don't like the clutter, so I ended up doing a semi permanent install on my BMW.

The right jacket/pants/boots/gloves is money better spent in my opinion. The heated stuff is just icing on the cake. Last year I routinely rode in 30* without the heated stuff. Waited till the 20's for the heat. The coldest I rode in was 7*. The issues I had at that point was in my helmet. My barclava hood slid back off my forehead while putting the helmet on and I damn near had frostbite on my forehead from a 20 minute ride to work. 7* apparently is no joke. The rest of me, however, was a comfortable toasty. Felt like i was riding in 70*.

Disclaimer: I do cheat... The BMW has massive wind protection and heated seats/heated grips.

That would be any current tag on a Ohio registered vehicle that I presently own, correct? So, I could take the tags off of my Porsche and use them to get it home?

As for the Duramax, my budget is limited at $10k for the moment so your rig is way outside of my budget.

As long as the plate is in your name and you have title/BOS (and insurance card), you're cool. Call the BMV to confirm, but this is what the BMV told me one time I dealt with a similar situation.

You can use your plate as a 30 day tag. Just carry the title and bill of sale with you as proof of recent purchase.

I'd consider selling my uber clean 04 duramax w/ 5speed Allison, 2wd ext cab 8ft box. 193k'ish miles. EFI live, turbo back exhaust, turbo horn, intake. Touch screen radio w/reverse camera. A slew of recievers, sway control, weight distribution. Also have a 2005 24ft enclosed that could go with. I'd do $20,000 for all of it.

It does 19mpg in the summer, and just did 12mpg towing about 10k lbs through the mountains this weekend.

I have these boots, I'm overall pleased. I do have to forewarn: they run a bit on the narrow side, if you have wide feet like I do.

I wish I could make it. Unfortunately people have broken their cars and want me to fix them.

I would like to have another one, but you wouldn't like my offer... Lol

In revzilla's article they said it was built using an existing DOT approved shell that is built by a manufacturer that builds for many.

That's a huge red flag for me.

It means icon (WPS) or speed and strength (tucker rocky) quality shell with bolted on electronics.

If I'm paying anywhere near $1000.00 for a helmet, I want the same quality I get with my arai corsair v. Fitment is my most major concern, and when paying that price, it better be down right luxurious to wear the helmet.

In saying all that, the tinted visor is cool as hell. But why the hype on it? Auto dark welding helmets have been that way for years, no button necessary.

Would auto dark visors be dorky like transition lens glasses?

Never ridden a 1k supersport, but I have a hard time believing you can just crack it open and not lift the front lol.. If you're talking your bike, yea maybe, but then you're comparing 600 to a 1k and it's apples to oranges lol

Just have to respect the throttle.. And when it comes up by surprise, it just adds a little bit of fun lol

The only time I miss having fairings is above 90mph, and even then a screen fixes problems.. Fz1 has the front fairing to resolve that issue... I don't spend much time above 140mph where those fairings make a difference

My s1000rr would keep the front end down in 3rd gear at WOT as long as it was rolled into. I wouldn't call the front end planted however. I'm glad they equip the bikes with steering stabilizers. 2nd gear it would float the front end about a foot high whenever WOT. First was very aggressive. Liter bikes are insane. It takes a while to get used to the acceleration, and even when you're used to it, it feels like you're being shot out of a cannon. When you step back on a 600 straight from a liter bike, it's crazy how it feels slow (even though a modern 600 is far from slow).

I'm curious to ride one of the new super nakeds, like the ktm SDR. I'm sure with the upright ergo's, it's probably front happy.

Liter bikes are fast.

When the front end is skipping across the ground at 150, you're reassured that the bike you're riding is far too much motorcycle.

I miss it though.

Lol my Honda was made in Italy.. Does that count?

If you count it!

I'm really not putting down the Japanese nakeds, they're actually great machines. Japanese always build a quality product.

I'm just speaking in what I think the us market would reflect in sales figures.

Unfortunately, most of what I see atop Japanese supersports are usually dressed in nothing more than an icon vest, ripped stone wash jeans, brand new bleach white tennis shoes that are untied, mechanix gloves, backwards ball cap and Oakley sunglasses. While I agree they are super cool looking... I doubt they're using the motorcycle for its intended/designed purpose.

And yes, I'm a total bike snob.

That new Suzuki is interesting, but I don't see it doing any better than the cb1000r

I feel like those interested in a liter class sport naked, will look at euro brands. those interested in Japanese brands will look at supersports.

I don't doubt it will be a nice bike, but I won't be buying one. I prefer big twins, so the likes of ktm, Ducati and EBR have my attention.

Welcome. More of the active folks here are located in C-bus and points north, but a few in the Cinti/NKY area. I'll put in a suggestion to check out the AssfaultJunkies.com forum. AFJ is prolly a more active forum for the local area here and has a mix of both street and track riders. Also, check out LocalRiders.com--not anywhere near as large or active a membership, but still a local forum to watch for rides.

All of this is true.

I own a standard 9800 and it is the best gear bag I've owned. The 1 piece back/bottom hard plastic construction makes it tough and easy to slide into a tall pickup bed. It also actually stays standing if you store it fully loaded and in the upright position. It costs more than some of the entry models, but it's worth it. Having a separate compartment for regular clothes or clean gear vs. dirty gear makes the bag worth it.

Here are the pictures from Saturday during practice. This was my first time using my new Canon Rebel so hope y'all enjoy!

http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/jebaird3/slideshow/

Awesome pictures!

Ton of fun today! I had a blast!

i've had decent luck with http://www.smalltires.com when i got tires for my mini-moto (cause i run the stock/dirt 12/14 wheels)

i searched for 140/70/17, they have bt003's in that size. those are a pretty nice tire.