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smccrory

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Posts posted by smccrory

  1. 8 minutes ago, motocat12 said:

    Who would be using a finger-rest mag? The ringfinger on the p290 isn't getting any love

    I do, but always with an extended mag if they're available for the gun and the extension doesn't limit how I carry the gun.  I usually bring an extra mag but having an extra round in the slide is always good.

  2. 6 minutes ago, Tpoppa said:

    I would honestly be comfortable carrying a pocket .22 except that tiny 22s just aren't that reliable.   

    Anymore the only pistols I have use for are full size range guns and pocket pistols.   Anything in between tends to sit in the safe unused.

    I think I'm getting to that point as well.  When the Dems were in charge, I could justify collecting stuff just because it was different, odd, potentially on their ban lists or just cool, hip and happ'n.  Those buys aren't getting any range time - I just don't have time for them.  Same is happening with my folding knife collection.

  3. On 3/1/2017 at 8:36 AM, ScubaCinci said:

    I'm sure there are some columbus peeps that could lend a hand. Lots of very knowledgeable folks on here in that area. I'd recommend NOT taking it to a shop or paying someone to do it for you. Not that the shop/person won't do it right but if you are able to do it yourself or with some assistance you'll learn more about the bike and have the confidence to work on it yourself even if it's just pulling the carb to clean it. Plus, that knowledge will translate to other thumpers. You never know when you'll be in the woods and something stops working and it certainly helps to have a clue as to where to start troubleshooting. Speaking of, the CDI's on these are known to go out over time. If you are every out and it just quits (and you aren't out of gas, etc). Trying tapping on the CDI box (located near the battery). This usually gets it working again at least until you can reach civilization. A bunch of us on ADV did a group buy of a programmable CDI from Czechoslovakia that is not only more dependable but can be programmed to alter the ignition curve and improve performance.

    Also, check youtube for videos on how to do various things like valve check/adjustment which is ridiculously easy on this bike. When I had my DRZ, anything I wanted to do with the bike there was a how to video online. I tore that bike down, replaced the front and rear springs, re-jetted, re-greased the swingarm bolt...you name it. I'm not a mechanic by nature (more of a computer guy) but I didn't really have much difficulty save for stubborn bolts/nuts. Doing all that really helped me with other bikes I've had since including the XRL.

    +1000 to Scuba's post.

    I went from being a mechanically interested computer nerd to a kind-of competent shadetree motorcycle mechanic in 18 months by pouring over my motorcycles' service manuals, watching YouTube videos, leveraging this and other bike-specific forums and getting local friends' help with the trickier bits.  I started small, like changing my own oil and filter, changing sprockets, cleaning the chain and replacing brake and clutch fluid, then moving on to valve checks, cleaning carbs and slightly modifying them for better performance.  By the end, I had gone through three project bikes, multiple carb rebuilds, a full engine top-end, two repaints, multiple tire changes, three steering head and wheel bearing swaps, seat upholstery and more.  As a result, I now have a far better idea about how to handle trail breakdowns and nearly all of the periodic maintenance I now do myself on my Suzuki, Beta and Honda.  Oh, and I also know what I don't want to do myself anymore and am happy to pay a competent person to do for me while I speak in specifics to ensure it gets done right.

    My work schedule has been brutal and doesn't appear to be improving soon, but I'm certain I (in Westerville) and others would be happy to help if you want to swing it over sometime.  Like Scuba said, the XR is a delightfully easy to work on (I have its little brother).  You're welcome to join us at our next PM party - that's a great way to get through the basics with advice from others and I have pretty much every tool you'd expect to need on the XR.

    • Upvote 2
  4. 18 minutes ago, Connie14 said:

    This thread is making my G43 look fat, but it shoots well. 

    The G43 has the nose of a german shepherd. Accurate that way too.  Feels great in the hand and has a very Glock trigger, which I appreciate being a G26 owner.

    I'm still a big fan of the .380 and carry the LCP II around a lot, particularly in the summer.  Much has been said about the relative power difference of a 9mm but if you can deliver first shots on target with a good defensive load, a .380 you carry is better than a 9/40/45/38/357/44 left at home or missed with.  That's where these micro 9s try to sit - 9mm power with a nearly .380 footprint.  They don't completely nail it, but they get close.

  5. Just now, Tpoppa said:

    I wouldn't own an original 290,  but the 290rs is a fine pistol.  It's a little heavy for how small it is but it feels nice in the hand.

    I had a P290 subcompact in .45 for a year and it was a great-feeling pistol but way too big for my tastes outside of the home or range.  I'm hardly svelte (damned belly) but I don't like to carry even more weight around than I need to.

  6. 5 minutes ago, Tpoppa said:

    The P290rs is DAO.   I personally like DAO triggers especially in a pocket pistol.

    I like kahrs too.  I have a P380.

    Ah, right you are.  I was thinking about the 938.

  7. For me it's not just size but also weight.  I found that a Kahr CM9 (economy version of the PM9) was about as ideal as I could find for a pocketable 9mm that was light yet still controllable, accurate, well-made and reliable (after break-in period anyway).  With a Desantis Nemesis or PJ Holster sleeve, it just about disappears for all-day carry.  I keep wanting to love the sig P290 but can't get over its weight or SA action.

  8. Just now, ScubaCinci said:

    The great news is, I think the XRL is pretty much unchanged since 1993 so parts are plentiful and generally cheap. Very easy to work on too...no valve shims and easy to access. I hate valve shims. 

    Me too.  They're supposedly more stable but man, they're a PIA when you don't own the exact shim you need.  I'd rather spend 20 extra minutes getting the nuts adjusted just right than calculating and hunting down shims for a day (or more if you can't buy them locally).  That said, I had an oh-shit moment last fall when the previous owner didn't torque the nuts down enough.  One intake ran completely off and another intake ran half way up the post.  Thankfully the one nut dropped inertly into the valve cover, and XR engines tough as tanks.

    • Upvote 1
  9. 1 hour ago, ScubaCinci said:

    Ha, I just saw that one as well and was going to post it. XR650L's are street legal from the factory so unless somewhere along the way the title was lost and resissued as an off-road vehicle, it should be good to go.

    Ohio is one of the easiest states to street title an off-road vehicle so don't let that stop you. 

    The asking price is in line as long as there aren't any surprises to disqualify it from being street legal.  I always pause a little when I see an overbore because that means someone went out of their way to add power, and not just with the cheap mods (lifting the needle, richening the idle circuit, etc.).  If they did it right and used quality components, I wouldn't worry, but there are a lot of carb butchers and shit kits out there that could spell heartache later.  Don't commit to buying until you hear it start cold, warm up and ride at all RPMs and you go through all the gears on a test ride.  A bike this age will have been through plenty.

    I have a 1991 250cc model overbored to 280cc and like the XR650L, it' solid, has plenty of power for its intended use and is cheap to buy parts for as long as there aren't any frame or bottom end problems.  Service intervals are long, so they're easy to maintain and the 650 is plenty strong for both single track and highway.  Neither are comfortable for long road rides and they have reputations for being cold blooded - my XR250L can hardly be kickstarted under 45-50 degrees.

  10. 1 hour ago, CrazySkullCrusher said:

    I've read that you don't get the same flavor or the smoke ring with electric. 

    I find this to be some degree true - the smoke concentration isn't as high when you're cooking at low temps for very long durations.  To pull that off, you're either into a pellet or chip smoker where the wood itself is the heat source, but note that temp control with those is a bitch unless you have a controller and auto-feed system.  That's why the Traegers are so much more expensive - the controller and screw feeder.

    Now, I've enjoyed pork and brisket several times from my friend's Traeger and it's excellent, but to be honest my electric model gets almost the same level of smokiness and neither of them have the same smoke rings you'll find coming out of a giant pit operation.  I'd argue that for Chicken, Salmon and smaller cuts of beef and pork, the difference is small-to-none, plus the electric models heat up faster and only need a tray of additional wood every 90-120 minutes under most temps.

    • Upvote 1
  11. I'm loving my Masterbuilt Sportsman 30" electric smoker.  I got mine without the window and bought a separate temp probe / remote monitor since I placed the smoker in my garage.  It's 1/3 the cost of a Traeger pellet smoker and does a great job.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Masterbuilt-30-in-Digital-Electric-Smoker-20070910/100660191?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D28I-Grills|&gclid=CNvnidOL8tECFYy2wAodTJQBvg&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Shop around - these can be found at Field and Stream on sale from time to time.  I recently saw it for $139 in a local flyer a few weeks ago.  I think I paid $170 minus some points I had saved up.

    It's incredibly easy to use, acts like an oven with a smoke tray and external chip feeder access.

    • Upvote 1
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