Cordell

The bolt hates you too. http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5422382794_038942e87d.jpg

Why don't you step up rent the track and buy them some track glue so you and all your friends can run your super fast awesome cars there and quit fucking bitching? Is this how winter is going to be? Someone with "8s on E85" on their windsheild running 9s and blaming everyone else for 6 months?

Something like this? http://www.flyinmiata.com/westfield/ I doubt thats what you mean, doubt you could make it street legal anyway. Boxer engine in a Miata is something I've never seen, lots of parts available for both, low CG. Sorry I'm hung up on Miatas right now when it comes to taking corners, other then Vettes most cars thought of as "sport" or "handling" I don't like.

Don't see the Mystic Cobras very often, I only know of one other around here and its Dyno Brian's personal track rat. Nice intro welcome.

Leave serp belt on, use chisel bit in air hammer to break it loose. The tools are nice but I rarely get mine out, not loaning it outside my shop anyway.

Idk Ford something I suppose. http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k198/weavedan/2012-11-02071314.jpg

Look forward to seeing it.

Meh, if the shocks and springs were different its news to me, having driven different cars I can't tell a difference. The WS6 Ram Air package was mostly appearance, having seen both the Trans Am and WS6 on the dyno they put down about the same power too, you mean to tell me that the 305 and 320 hp ratings are accurate?

Having never used c-clip eliminators, I really like the idea of using the 9" housing ends and bearings. Seems like it would be a much easier set-up to deal with and rebuild later.

Enlighten me as to how it's different? Unless it has upgraded SLP stuff, WS6 cars are no different.

Well noises and such should be pretty obvious, your typical gear whine, fluid leaks, poor fitting t-tops and signs of leaks (assuming its a t-top car), melted front marker lights, poor operating headlight motors with stripped teeth on the plastic gear that operates them, and I'm sure you can handle most of the basic mechanical checks. If I can think of anything else I'll post it. Get the VIN and I'll check its history from GM. Also inspect the seams inside the hatch where the quater panels attach to the unibody, those were known to seperate on some cars.

Still fucking sucks, I hate talk radio, I want music, not some biased bullshit opinions. Guess I'll keep more CDs in my car.

I live in Blacklick, and before that Reynoldsburg. I don't know what you are talking about. I am a good bit redneck though, fuck it I don't care.

Redneck huh?

Typically you have to replace whatever crash sensors set it off and the airbag module.

Thats cool. Thats alot of mass to move that fast. I've pulled ATVs over 100mph but looking back I guess I was crazier when I was in my early 20s.

Check out this stuff, I've used their products as well as friends. It's not for everybody but its worth a look. http://www.aeroforcetech.com/products_analogic.html Basically you can hook sensors to a gauge with warning lights and other functions.

Looks fishy, but like everyone else has said the car's set-up will make more sense out of it. My Camaro cut 1.4x 60' times and ran 10.6x at like 124. I guess a lot of wheel spin, hell my Miata will do 2.0x 60' times. Shitty time slips for sure.

Trolls don't have birthdays.

Good luck with the front diff in that, this will be interesting.

Never been through a checkpoint, but anybody dumb enough to go through a checkpoint drunk deserves to get arrested. As for these guys taking the law literally to give the cops a hard time I don't see the point, it's not like I think highly of any of the police's tactics when it comes to trolling for crimes.

So a some of you may or may not have known my Miata has had a "wheel bearing type" noise that has progressivly gotten worse over the summer. It was deffenitly coming out of the rear of the car so I decided I'll just put new wheel bearings in the rear. Well it got rid of some very minor play, but the noise was the same. Started doing my research finding people descibing the noise and needing u-joints. Well here's where it gets fun, a lot of Japanese cars, Miatas included, use a non-servicable staked in u-joint and I would have to replace the whole driveshaft. After some more research I found a manufacturer that sells a replacement u-joint and for you online shoppers there's a web store called "The U-Joint Store". So the install isn't too bad, but you will damage the yoke if it is not carefully pressed out, using a shop press simply pushes the cap over the stakes smoothing it out as it is removed. The new u-joints are equipped with snap rings so the install is pretty straightforward other then it's so damn small. So now that I've got that tackled the car rides like new again. http://www.theujointstore.com/ http://www.rockforddriveline.com/replacem.htm Some of you that drive JDM cars may find this usefull http://www.rockforddriveline.com/Staked-In_U-Joints.pdf Head Admin edit: This thread is for informational purposes only concerning staked-in u-joints.

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