Cordell

See above posts, you'd be better off to figure out why its at 65psi before you go changing anything, and verifing that it is indeed that high, double checking with another gauge would be a go idea.

It's not like anything is adjustable, it would seem to me that either wahtever gauge he has is inaccurate or someone has messed with the fuel lines somewhere else. If it was me I'd see if anything has been altered with the fuel lines near the left rear tire, thats where it would be easy to splice in a regulator or something. The only reason I say possible inaccurate gauge is because the stock regulator is not adjustable and usually high fuel pressure would be caused by a stuck regualtor or restriction in the return, these conditions typically make for a lot higher pressure then 65psi. and normal working range is 55-60psi

Well I didn't know either until I started looking stuff up in GM's website. Brian knows he can call me anytime he has questions I can try to answer. That is some good info to know though. Look forward to seeing you get to drive it, it's a great thing to get a project that big to come together. :thumbup:

I guess I should've put 2 and two together, I didn't realize it was this car Brian was talking about. Congrats on getting stuff worked out. If you think about it I'd like to come check it out on the dyno when you and Brian get to that point.

My parents still have the Kirby they bought when I was about 11-12 years old, they've fixed a couple parts over the years but it still works great. Guess that makes it about 18 years old and still sucking. My wife and I have some Bissell bagless thing now, its okay, but should be better.

Acutally drove a Buick wagon (same body style) that was converted to a T-56, it was pretty cool. This was about 6 years ago so I have no idea where the guy was from around here, I actually put tires on it.

The ignition lock cylinder is the main component of the VATS system. It's not horrible to do, but a couple tools are needed to get the column apart. The security light is a pretty good sign, we have some tools at the dealer to bypass the VATS system to know for sure. The tools basically put the correct resistance of the key in the circuit, so when you figure out what the resistance is you can simply put that resistance in the cicuit to bypass the VATS. Take an ohm meter and measure across the chip in the key, get a resistor from radio shack of that value, at the base of the column there is a small two wire harness that comes from the VATS sensor, connect the two wire together with the resistor leading away from the column. Now if the car starts VATS is to blame, if not you have another issue. Clear as mud?

Thats a passlock system, totally different.

If its all used nitrous stuff goes pretty cheap, even if its lightly used or new in the box you'd have a hard time at those prices IMHO. A lot of people don't even use fuel pressure safty switches or nitrous filters. So its my opinion that while you may eventually find someone to pay that, I think it'll take a while to sell it at those prices. I would expect more like $225-250.

Heard this on the radio, radio said self inflicted gunshot wounds. Shitty.

The lock cylinder comes assembled, so you have to have the correct coded key cut for the cylinder.

I hope you're not serious, what Tuffy?

Sounds like VATS then. You can do what AJ said and bypass it with a resistor, that would be a cheap fix. Fixing it to function normally would be a little more pricey because you have to find out what code it is and buy a new cylinder with new keys at the dealer. Not sure if any lock smiths get into anything like that. If you need some help with it PM me.

IS the security light flashing? Could be VATS, could be something else in the starting circuit.

Love both autos and manuals in the right application, but I don't want to see the option go anywhere. A built and stalled auto is fun to drive, but a stick is great to drive without even modding it. Long live the stick!!

Yeah, the tie rod is pretty loose, his wife drives it mostly so they hadn't really noticed the steering wheel being off-center.

PM'd would be good to keep the street wear down on my R888s

Went over and looked at it after work, it needs a right front wheel bearing, left front outer tie rod, and an alignment.

Just have to pull it off and inspect for cracks, warping (with a straight edge), is the tube running up from the head have an issue? Best thing to do is take it apart and look, you've got enough common sense to figure out is something is wrong. Even doing stuff like this every day I've rolled a gasket without realizing it, shit happens.

I bet the part numbers are almost identical. It really doesn't matter bud they are both good parts.

You can't go wrong with the NGKs, thats what I would use.

Been down this road, top of my chest and arms :fuuuu:. Anyone doing much welding should have leathers.

Yes it is. If I were you, I'd get a trans flush and brake flush done somewhere since this stuff would be difficult in an apartment, and take care of the other few things yourself. and you really don't need a torque wrench to do plugs, its not rocket science all they need to be snug. (I guess to someone who doesn't have the experience this would ensure they were the right degree of snug)

Yes there is some air in the tube when you start, but multiple pumps clears it out and bleeds the brakes. Keep pumping and it will quickly overfill the bottle (much more comes out then goes in). A lot of guys use a vacuum, so yes that is another one-man option, I've also seen a tool that pushes fluid in but have never used one. Brakes are typically bled from farthest to closest to the master cylinder, right rear, left rear, right front, left front. There are a few odd ball cars out there that this wouldn't be the prefered order of bleeding, but in most cases its not overly critical anyway.