Cordell

Unless I'm missing something, I'm not a Honda tech, but the plugs should be right under that plastic engine cover and some ignition coils. Pretty easy car to do if I'm right.

You can't just open the bleeders and pump. Without a one-man bleeder tool of some kind, there are many ways to do it by yourself, but for basic theory you bleed brakes by having some one pump then hold while you open and shut the bleeder letting fluid out without sucking air back in. On a side note I made a one-man bleeder out of a plastic bottle, a rubber hose to slip over the bleeder, and a little extra brake fluid, and this is how I do it at work. Looks like this, hose goes into bottle submerged in brake fluid so it can't suck air back in. http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j304/BIGSKYWRX/bleedbottle.jpg

Is this what your engine bay looks like? http://acarisnotarefrigerator.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/honda_civic_hybrid_2006_engine.jpg?w=630&h=393 It looks like I could do plugs in your driveway, in 15 minutes, want to buy me dinner?

What engine is it? Are the plugs that hard to do? Changing the brake fluid is easy, now I'm sure I'll get shit for this, but just repeatedly bleed the brakes until you get new fluid out of all the bleeders. A brake flush machine is nice but thats basically all it does, cycling the ABS module is nice but not something usually done by most shops anyway.

Well from what you described it really sounds like a wheel bearing, they are super common. I don't understand all the hostility towards driving a vehicle in the air, I wouldn't be comfortable driving it on jackstands but most techs including me drive cars on lifts all the time as its the easiest way to diagnos issues like this. Honestly I don't see the feeling your coil spring while rotating the tire working very well unless the wheel bearing is really bad. Now that being said, they are bad about fan clutches going bad but that noise is pretty easy to figure out. The front diffs are pretty bad too, and since they barely hold a quart of fluid they are not very tolerable of leaking, that could be mistaken for a wheel bearing, but again I check stuff like that by driving them in the air. I think a u-joint would have to be really bad and you should check those for movement also. If you are around the east side I could take a ride in it and point you in the right direction if you want, just shoot me a PM if you want to go that route.

Camaro- 10w-40 Royal Purple, K&N filter Miata- 10w-30 Royal Purple, K&N filter Cobalt- 5w-30 Mobil 1 full syn, A/C Delco filter Yes I'm a beleiver in synthetics and I still change my oil every 3k miles.

This sums it up. Pretty common issue, I do a lot of them. Do yourself a favor and buy a good bearing, NAPA or Timkin, not an Autozone special.

Got car parts to put on my cars for a change, and I got to work next week

I'll come down, will be there around noon, when ever I can get away. Save me a seat next to Anthony.

A good point, similar to a boosted car that can have spark blow out, good spark energy is required, this is also why running tight spark plug gaps is required too. The law is written that it must not be functional, so disconnecting or turning off the bottle and you'll be fine. Basically it is illegal to spray a car on the street. I do not want to get into a legal arguement so those type questions will be deleted. I know for a fact that the system cannot be active, however specific legal issues should be directed toward your lawyer or researched on your own so as not to place any blame towards those on CR when you get caught.

It wasn't me, I thought there was you and the one Miata faster then me, if there was more I'm not sure.

Let's not try to tell people how to run their car, there are options on many aspects, and how it will work best for someone has too many variables. Water bath, and NANO set-ups are cool, but usually budget preventative. Lets just say that bottle pressure is very important and having control of it is a very big part of a nitrous set-up. I ran without a progressive for a while and I always battled wheel spin, some people do fine if their cars are set-up to take the hit, so there is no set time to say its needed. In order for someone to safely inject nitrous safely a progressive is not needed, but I would run one and I'd also run a safety solenoid if I did.

Did you buy a car Greg? My goal is always to be as fast possible and winning is just a byproduct.

If you want to talk about specific must haves, a bottle heater, its absolutly neccesary to help maintain bottle pressure a pressure gauge, you have to know what the bottle pressure is at because it has a great effect on tune-up a fuel system to support everything for obvious reasons a purge isn't absolutly neccesary, but its hard to work with out it an extra set of plugs, especially when tuning as for various heat ranges, and multiple jets this depends a lot on what you're tuning. There are many other nitrous accessories, stuff stuff that is safety required like a blow down (would have to have in an f-body), but you wouldn't need just to have the system work properly. On a stick shift car a window switch is an extremely good idea, and not a bad idea on an automatic car, but the risk of over-rev isn't as bad. Of course a progressive is a nice thing to have, and becomes more and more usefull the more nitous you use. Most of the other stuff isn't neccesary or is used when you are trying to do something specific.

Do the pads fit really tightly on the bracket? A common issue with a lot of trucks. Otherwise I've had bad hoses cause symptoms like that. Well thinking about it a little more I've had a bad master cylinder do that on an older (5-7 years) Silverado. Get it seized up and crack the bleeder loose and see if it releases, if it does then it's either the hose or master cylinder. If both sides "seize" it could very well be the master. I beleive this gets caused by a seal rolling over inside the master when the pistons are pushed back, not very common at all. Check the other stuff first.

No that would be from 0. In my opinion toe is more personal preference as I'd start at zero, but you can try anything you want as I don't know what those cars like. It just seems to me that driving down the road the car would be somewhat unstable and dart around with toe out. Camber has a lot to do with how evenly hot you can get the surface of the tire. If say you set it at -2 degrees, and the inside gets hotter, you would want to try maybe -1.5 degrees, and vice versa. Again there is no set values that work, it'll be set-up specific as to what is optimal, tires, driving, and car weight will all play a role in what is optimal.

Alignment racks can be set-up to show toe in inches, but it's typically done in degrees. It's just two ways to measure the same thing. 1/16th toe out would be the tire pointed out away from the car by 1/16" going down the road. Seems excessive on the rear, most cars are set toed in from the factory for stability.

Heres a better one for you to photoshop next time. http://i405.photobucket.com/albums/pp133/ND2RACE/dumb/idiot.jpg but I Lol'd at yours anyway.

Cents, i make none.

Being a mod makes me the opposite of those who oppose me, its just a title, and with some of the stunts I've pulled surprises me that I still have it.

hi again

Abuse of Mod powers. Who else wants to vote to remove a mod?

Still on this? Yay X

Fast at everything, except wit, so lets see if that vette can hold off a little Miata.

Hey look Tony Stark is here. Must be time to create an electrical generator powerfull enough to run a city and be selfish with it, using it in your chest to keep yourself alive.