Cordell

404 funny not found Wagner or this thread :dumb:

Whatever dude. What is this your girlfriend's disease?

Wow Nick, I can't beleive I haven't seen that before :thumbup:

Meh, don't know what constitutes "filthy" but I dig Children of Bodom. Saw them at the Newport a while back, good stuff.

Well that cuts down your options quite a bit. You'll be hard pressed to buy most of whats mentioned here for $500. For $600 you'll likely only afford to get the catback replaced. It wouldn't save you much to do headers. If you do the work yourself you'll have around $1000 in a basic set of headers, ory, and catback. So...

Could you give some streaming site examples? I'm getting rid of cable at this time and I'm looking for all the alternatives i can find.

Depends on what you want to accomplish, cost and sound. SLP makes nice systems, Magnaflow also, I've had both, Borla is a nice set-up as well. Magnaflow and Borla have a similar sound level, but the Borla is adjustable, SLP is loud, even the quieter ones are similar or slightly louder then a Magnaflow. As for ORY, Pacesetter makes a nice one for their headers that tukes up nice, Stainless Works makes a more universal one that is designed for maximum flow but I've never seen one personally. The redesigned Texas Speed ORY fits much better then the ones from 4-5 years ago. So basically decide how much you want to spend and how loud you want it.

The next time we have good weather I may have the Camaro out, get some.

I bought it for a month, but I didn't like it. The stuff they had was not interesting to me or my family. We do get a lot of use out if our Netflix though.

Good to see you getting some major parts ready for the truck, congrats on getting farther then a lot of people. Now I'm sure you're looking forward to getting it in.

Well the airbox actually has a big enough opening for a paper air filter to pass enough cfm that a K&N isn't really worth it. and the MAF needs to be the same for the car, most of them are different, so if you look up part numbers you could find something the same to try.

Hey looka post

Its not bad, and I doubt you'd drive the car in a way that it would really matter. Now if you are going to be stepping the rear end out for fun it'll get away from you much easier. I kept my stock bars on for more then just a cost factor, I don't feel like I ever went fast enough to benefit from the bar, I'd have rather done an airbag in the right rear, and going to a handling set of sway bars doesn't help it at the drag strip IMO.

Mine won't do it, and not all GMs will error out and run.

Sway bars either need to be matched to keep the handling balanced, or the use of a bigger adjustable sway bar to help a car launch straight. IMHO you have 3 options, leave the stocker on, buy a sway bar set, or do a bigger adjustable drag sway bar. Chad has a drag bar on his Trans Am and other then the rod ends wearing on the endlinks it's not bad to drive, it just makes the car more tail happy if you're pushing it. I have always had my stock sway bars on the car. If you just put a "performance" bar on the back you aren't going to make the car handle better or launch much better, thus defeating the purpose.

Good to know, I'll have to keep that in mind if I come across any of these.

Did you not read my post bud? The sensors are very likely, but its not a sure thing. and its just my opinion but cleaning an o2 sensor is a waste of time.

So they do make something decent other then O2 sensors, I don't work on the VAGs so like I said, I didn't know.

Not when I get those misfiring junk ass Bosch +4s show up in some GM I'm working on, maybe they have something decent for the VAGs but I wouldn't know.

Worse much?:dumb:

Really? Champions are for Mopars and lawn mowers. Autolites and Motorcrafts are for Ford. AC Delco for GM, and NGK for everyone else. This my opinion of course so take it however you want, but I have never had good experience with Champion.

This if the car will run, I doubt it will but you can try it. I bet you fried the o2 sensors, they don't tolerate much abuse. I've had to replace mine a few times. Just check to make sure you haven't created a vacuum leak, or allowed air to get in behind the MAF anywhere.

Spray some Armor-all on the engine. but seriously, the check engine light should point you in the right direction. Get the codes checked and report back.