Cordell

I'm sad for Ray, the car is still awesome as far as I'm concerned. Anything can be fixed though, and hopefully Ray will just put it back together.

Since you have a Trans Am with seperate head rests your stock seats will be fine. My one piece Camaro seats not so much.

Yup, used to work like that every saturday before I started at the dealership.

Yeah I know, I just got home, we're open till 1 on saturday and it was my turn.

Nice to see someone come out and support, then sit and give me ricer revs while leaving, welcome.

If you have the title free and clear, then yes, otherwise you'll have to include a repair facility on your check.

Good to see Jones out there, even a little faster then I thought. Good times.

So I guess your PCM must have been cut off from getting power then. Glad you got it figured out.

Either the power wasn't getting from the alternator (bad wire or connection) or the alternator quit charging. I've seen may times were the battery gets weak and will barely start the car, and that puts a heavy load on the alternator trying to charge the battery then both end up going bad. No matter what went bad on the car (sounds like alternator to me), make sure the battery is fully charged and tests good before you head out or you could end up with more issues.

Jeg's on E Main is the typical spot, I'm taking my daughter to school so will see you guys at the track.

It's a timing chain engine thats computer controled, not sure what you mean by adjusting the timing. You may be getting some wear to the plugs or some small ignition issue if it feels like its starting to break up under load. I'm not really experienced in the V, but have heard there have been issues with engine mounts going bad.

True on the camber. If I wanted to give up a little grip in the rear by not using optimal camber I could, obviously not the best way but it would work. Given my limited budget I may just try to run in the Miata Club's AS class, which would limit mods so springs and a rear sway bar would be out along with non-factory rim sizes. Of course I'm likely to say fuck it and just do the mods I want because I'm only out to have fun anyway.

I was thinking along those lines, but I've never liked driving toe out, I've always set up toe at 0. I can't see the Miata needing that much camber in the rear, but I haven't really read up on what works in these cars. I'm sure I'll be playing with a couple different settings, since I have easy access to an alignment rack. Alignment is kind of personal preference anyway so long as you're not doing something stupid. Your car definetly looks well composed, maybe I can drive yours since you seemed interested in trying the Miata.

Thanks Rich, I was thinking wheels and tires would be great investment, maybe rid some unsprung weight while I'm at it. I just don't want to over tire the car. Just looking around now to hopefully get something for spring. I'm planning on doing the Miata club's last autocross event in a few weeks, then hopefully have a few more things sorted out for next year. I need to do some bushings with new eccentric bolts so I can align the thing, that should net a nice improvement in overall feel as well.

My Dad dealt with Trails West all through the 80s, he never had any issues with them but they've grown quite a bit since then. I was under the impression that they just had some guys to hang parts so I don't know if you'd get much of a diagnosis out of them, unless the way your Jeep is lifted is causing the issue. Sounds like I'd spend the money to pull the driveshafts and have them checked out based on this post.

Could be a few things, nothing jumps out at me without driving it, things like this that I'm not sure of I check the siomplest first and work up from there. So in this order I'd check into tires, worn suspension peices, maybe alignment depending on how the first two looked, then have the driveshafts checked and balanced. If possible it might be helpfull to drive the vehicle with the wheels off the ground to observe the spinning parts, obviously this isn't usually a good option for the at home DIYer. Also by pulsate, where do you feel this? In the steering wheel, seat of the pants, whole vehicle?

Pretty sure there is a gas station at Summitt and 11th that sells race fuel, not for sure exact location or what they sell. You could always swing up to Pick-ups Plus they sell Torco fuels.

That Colorado looks like ass, its worse then the current one. Oh well it'll be a big POS anyway. Wish I was wrong.

troll attempt because I didn't think you bought anything. I hope you're bringing Katie's Accord, and you guys don't have 2. :no:

http://xspblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/06/nowai_qjpreviewth.jpg lame troll attempt Paul.

Over all I don't get the impression that you're motivated to sell. Are you bumping your listings? Maybe a relist with a little higher price, and take the price down after a few days, this usually gets my attention. I've seen your car so i thinks it's worth the asking price, I'm just not sure people are willing to spend that on an f-body anymore. Especially when you can buy higher mileage ones for almost half that when a lot of people just want to mod them. I'm not saying I'm right, just my observation.

I've been seeing signs for this stuff around my side of town also. I doubt I'll bother trying it as I've neveer really liked much beer, I'm one of those Bud Select guys. Everything I've tried that was supposed to be good or have a lot of flavor I really don't like. I'd rather drink cough syrip then Guiness. So anyway it looks like you can get Yuengling about anywhere that carries a selection of beer at this point, so who cares?

That would look okay on an old school hot rod,

I may have a Ford rear in my Camaro, but there are no Ford parts going into any Miata I own.

Well just make a thread to bitch about it. Which ones do you want me to fix? Did you get anywhere figuring stuff out?