Cordell

About damn time. Surprising it doesn’t hook better with all the weight in the back.

I'll check that, you do mean the one right behind the battery right? Little fuckers need to die!

 

Yes that one. There’s a good bit of space under it and a ton of wires. I’ve repaired more then a few trucks in that spot.

10 minutes key on, the security light should go out, cycle the key off and back on, wait another 10 minutes, Light should go off, key off and back on, wait another 10 minutes, security light should turn off, then it should start if this is the problem.

 

If you found chewed wires take the underhood fuseblock out, they really like to chew under there.

Obviously I have alot of tool truck tools given my job, mostly Snapon, but I have some Gearwrench branded stuff that has held up very well. The 3/8” ratchets I use every day and have for close to 10 years area Gearwrench, and they have been fantastic. KD tools is Gearwrench’s parent company and they make good stuff.

 

Harbor Freight honestly just keeps getting better and better, especially when it doesn’t get used everyday professionally it’s pretty hard to beat. I want to try their new Icon line of tools but just haven’t had a reason to buy any.

 

I am over Craftsman, and have been for a long time now. My grandfather worked at Sears autocenter and retired from there in the 80s so I have a soft spot for them, not to mention some older (maybe collectible) tools I inherited. They had awesome tools that built their great reputation, by the time Sears sold the brand there was nothing great about them. They basically became adequate and there were better options everywhere, now it’s just a name and I refuse to buy them.

Tempting but I wanted to change some stuff around on my car before I go back to the track.

I love having fans blow cool air on my asshole through perforated leather while I'm asking android auto to tell me a funny fart joke while drinking a beer from one of the 11 cup holders on my way to the river with a pile of kayaks in the bed to go get shitfaced on the water. Ford, Chevy, fuckin whatever.. New trucks are the shit and worth every penny.

 

and proof that there’s an ass for every seat.

It’s definitely a good show, watched the first 2 of season 2 last week. I’m sure I’ll be caught up this weekend.

When I looked at a tundra in 2016 they told me with a straight face the stripper model was 10k more than what I paid for my F150, got half the mpg, towed less and was already rusting. I’m baffled they sold more than 1.

 

There are fan boys for everything, just take this thread for example. My stubborn ass will not buy any new truck, nor will I buy anything but 10 year old Chevy. New trucks are stupid prices for too much technology, it’s a truck, part of a truck’s appeal to me should be simplicity, but that’s not what the masses seem to want. I’ll stick to my 15 year old truck without a payment and look like a broke dick.

Most dealerships are suffering from very low quality inventories. It’s just starting to come back around. It’s not easy to find much right now. I don’t have much to add other then that, here at Dan Tobin they get away without cutting prices much and I don’t really know how the new General Sales Manager and all the new people he brought in are going to play out in the near future.

I tend to binge stuff until I’m sick of it.

Some good stuff that I’m now tired of;

Race Proven Motorsports

Jay Leno’s Garage

Fasterproms

PFI Speed

1320 Video

Richard Holdner

Cleetus McFarland

 

Some that I still look forward to new videos:

Cinema Sins

Company Man

Williston Audio Labs

The Proper People

PragerU

Tim McAmis

Conservative Twins

The Officer Tatum

Craig Lieberman

Zebra Corner

Had the 20 quart service done on the Callaway today. Drives better already, I'll report back after 200 miles.

Coughlin gave me no resistance doing the tsb under warranty.

 

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

 

Yeah when the bulletin first came out to flush them, they wanted data logs to show the shudder and it would tie up a tech for half a day. If you didn’t get it captured to meet their specs they’d deny the warranty claim. It was a bitch. Being the Corvette tech half of them were just guys wanting it done because l they read it on the internet. It sucked.

 

However 4-5 months ago they stopped requiring that so it’s not a big deal. Camaros pay just over an hour, while Corvettes pay 3 hours to do. Of course now I just do it when someone asks because it doesn’t matter.

Buy car, remove heads, send to Advanced Inductions, reinstall with or without a cam, profit.

 

Yes it’s real, yes it will happen, I won’t be ready to buy another car for few years but this is one of the top 2-3 cars I want. Doing the heads is exactly what should happen with any LS7.

About the coolest Miata ever to come straight from Mazda. I had done whatever basic air induction kit FM sells (comes with manual boost controller) and a CXRacing intercooler and it made 200wheel. Was a fun little car but got old after awhile. Things suck on the highway, and MSMs never came with cruise control, it’s gear limited to about 135 in 6th.

I replied to your PM.

 

This stupid HP/LV fluid GM uses in these transmissions has been through a half a dozen revisions. All the early stuff had additives in it that attracted moisture, and in turn caused torque converter shudder. 95% of the ones I’ve seen are fixed by properly doing the flush procedure. Some need converters if it goes on long enough. I’ve done the flush procedure on Corvettes with less then 3k miles because they were already shuddering and it fixed them.

 

The transmissions have had some other issues but I’m not a trans tech so I don’t really see them. I know there have been some drum failures and quite a few get damaged enough that we replace whole units a lot of the time, but like I said I’m not the one doing them.

Took my 6 jackstands back over the weekend. Got $96 in store credit. I swear I didn’t spend more then $60 on them. Oh well.

I sent mine up to Cleveland Injector Hospital, quick turnaround, cleaned and flowed, answered all my questions after I got them back. Very satisfied, will use again.

yes R12 is still around but you have to be ASE certified in A/C to buy it. R134a is slowly getting replaced with the new R1234YF, eventually it'll be like R12.

 

This new 1234yf isn’t going to be retrofitted into 134a cars, so expect 134a to stick around. This isn’t really going to be like a R12-R134a repeat.

That’s a real shame it went that way. Just reaffirms why I don’t automatically trust people.

 

You know as well as I do that depending on who did the work that shop/tech could just be seeing dollar signs and taking money not mentioning anything they can’t fix (ie frame rot).

 

At least you bought it and someone less mechanical didn’t buy and get in an accident.

What gears are you going with?

 

3:25

 

I debated using a 3:50, but figured if I get the power I’m after the car won’t get much traction anyway. The Magnum has less overdrive in it then a stock T56, .67 6th gear vesus the .50 6th, so the 3:25 will cruise on the highway closer to stock. Besides I refuse to set this car up for drag racing because I like it to corner carve, so it’ll never launch well at the track regardless of the gear ratio. Should be a hell of a roll race car though.

Update: September 2019

The car broke the trans and diff (since they’re bolted together in the back of the car), exploded the diff and snapped the back of the trans off.

 

This pissed me off, so I stripped the car down to a roller and sold it. The engine is in my Camaro and everything else got sold to fund my Camaro. I do miss the Vette but it had become a big money pit and I went further then I ever really wanted to. Will probably be looking at C6s or C7s in a couple years, but for now I miss the C5 and will just have to focus on the Camaro.

Well so I feel like updating this thread.

 

The T56 I had in the car never felt quite right, never shifted well at high RPM. So back in October I installed a T56 Magnum modified to use an f-body tailhousing. Along with the trans I installed the LS6 engine that was in my Corvette (Corvette was parted out around September). This made 405rwhp, and drove and shifted much better then it ever has.

 

Currently working on supercharger install, E85 conversion, and will be changing gears in the 9”.

What approach did you take in buying your car?

I have to have 3 things when I buy a car,

I first have to like the car and want to drive it long term (made this mistake before, paying on something you dislike sucks no matter how “good” the deal was)

Second it has to be something I can work on. This is certainly a more unique case for me, but being a technician I stick to cars I’m familiar with.

Lastly it needs to be a good deal, fair price, reliable car, and reasonable operating costs, ect.

 

 

Did you have financing already or did you go through the dealer?

 

My wife and I have done it both ways. For most I don’t think this makes a huge difference, especially with good credit. With good credit most dealerships are going to have some good options. With bad credit it could go either way, researching with banks or credit unions yourself is worth looking into if your credit is a little shaky.

 

 

What advice would you give a 23 year old (Not me) financing their first car. It will be a used car btw.

 

Try to go cheaper then you think you can afford. Don’t buy something unless you actually like it, otherwise pay cash for some beater.

Hire Attorney. Sounds like you’re friend has done everything that can be done otherwise.

Robinhood was so 2k13.

 

Ally doesn’t charge fees anymore anyway, so...

Most stuff seems fairly overpriced. I'm sitting on some money right now waiting for a good buy. I doubt much will happen until closer to the election late in the year.