Geeto67

ah so grant was just being grant. good to know. ok, disregard.

Anybody else feel like we glossed over the fact that the accused rapist is a member here and nobody is "outing" him? I mean this board is real quick to internet stalk and air the dirty laundry of car flippers and people whose political views are against the grain but the moment you get someone who commits an actual bad guy crime everybody goes silent? Why as a community is this board "protecting" this guy? Where are all the "take personal responsibility" advocates - they can show up to chide people about speeding tickets but we have a member that is accused of a crime where evidence of that crime was broadcast in video on the internet and not a one shows up to tell him he should plead guilty? just sayin....

age of majority is 18 in Ohio (in NY it is 17). Still this isn't a case of consenting statutory rape, it's actual sexual assault, so why charge the lesser charge that may interfere with a conviction for a much more serious crime. this periscope nonsense is just the laws of the physical realm not keeping up with the laws of the digital one. I hope the prosecutor will come to his senses and let this shit drop quietly once the media flap has died down.

Fixed it for you. Also, No does not equal yes and yes does not equal anal. Just felt like I needed to tell you that for some reason.

There are not enough swear words in existence for me to adequately describe the ducati support experience. Esp when dealing with something where the manufacturer chose to not stand by their customers for a product defect they were directly responsible for and have as of right now still not provided a solution. It's funny, but depending on the bike the ownership costs are not as severe as people think. I have a 2 valve aircooled powered ducati and my biggest expense (not related to fixing defective parts) is a belt every 3 years at around $300 to pay a tech (I do them myself now that the bike is out of warranty but when it was that was the bill). Even the tank issue was not back breaking to fix - costing me less than $500 to have a professional liner installed in the tank. If you owned one of the old sensitive superbikes like a 916/996/998 the service interval was very short for things like valve adjustments and required significant dis-assembly to perform and therefore high service costs. To make you feel better I had a friend that was a bevel twin collector (1970's ducati twins) and he used to tell me the bikes had a 1200 mile service interval. Complexity adds cost - any of the 2 valve aircooled engines are stone simple to work on and fairly cheap to run as long as you don't have a catastrophic failure. With VAG's new ownership I imagine the dealer experience will probably get better, before ducati was a shoestring operation and it's customers were sometimes it's worst enemy, now they have some room to pull money from VAG to handle major fuck ups like plastic tanks expanding. It's funny, I still run into plastic tank ducati owners who don't know their tanks have expanded. It affected different models differently. In my case the tank swelled so much that it could actually hold an extra gallon of gas, but was only secured to the bike by one bolt. It just wasn't well publicized because ducati used their significant pull in the motorcycle media industry to keep the thing off people's radar.

congrats!

nice score. That wing needs to go.

A known common issue with these cars is trashy crazy bitch syndrome. for some reason they seem to be a magnet for liquored up and lacquered down cougars who smoke off brand menthol cigarettes. just speaking from personal experience here (including one ex girlfriend) but have known quite a few that drove these cars. Where's ImUROBGYN, he's got a pretty cool one and knows these cars. Seriously though, to me they look like excellent GT cars - good for long highway sprints at extra legal speeds, which you already have cars that fill that role. Sell it, put the money into finishing your pontiac or your volvo.

FWIW I have hated every single multistrada I have ridden. Also, having been the direct recipient of massive anal gang-bang sans lube that was ducati's plastic tank issue I would not buy any ducati with a plastic tank, of which the multistrada is one. I ended up putting a liner in my tank and it has fixed the issue but it wasn't cheap and I only did it once my tank warranty had run out. Having a friend at a ducati dealer may change your outlook because I usually rate the whole experience on par with masturbating with a cheese grater.

you are burying the lead there a little. Both he and his father have received federal subsidies, which are not usually available to regular investors. He may have gotten a "loan" from his dad but he was already working in the family business and worth close a million before graduating college. Generational wealth is not limited to "inheritance". Actually Trump's father is not self made either - although he probably had the greatest growth, his parents (donald's grandparents), got started in the real estate business with bungalow rentals in the rockaways.

when does it start? when do most people filter out?

I rode to VMD at mid ohio from NY in 2008 with a guy who had a brand new one at the time. He was able to sit at 100+ mph for long stretches of time really comfortably. back seat passenger has a ton of room as well, esp if you have a top box for a back rest. I rode it and the size of the fairings in front took a little getting used to from the types of bikes I normally ride but still it was pretty fun. Used ones are pretty cheap with older models being about $2K http://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/5508923668.html , and more recent ones being closer to $6K http://columbus.craigslist.org/mcy/5521696228.html They have always used the superbike engine in a sport tourer chassis - the 14 uses the zx14 engine, where as older ones are zx10. Other bikes to look at in this area are the Yamaha FJ series and the Honda VFRs. I have ridden a VFR as well and to be honest, if I was going to be selfish about the bike I would go with the VFR, but I didn't feel like it had good rear passenger room and the concours has that for sure. make sure you take your girlfriend and have her try out the rear set before you buy any bike. The standard answer I give anybody concerning old motorcycles that have been standing is that it takes about $1000 in service items to make them safe, ride-able, and reliable again. It also takes about a month of riding to work out any hiding issues. If you are wondering where that money goes it is in: - tires - cables - carb rebuild parts (do not use cheap kits!!! OEM only) - brakes - fluids - battery - surprise deferred maintenance you can save some money based on the condition of some things and how much work it takes to bring it back, but this is assuming you do all your own work. Don't forget the value of the bike is around $1500 if it is cherry so it pays to be careful on how you spend. There is something to think about...if it is virago 535 it's a pretty low powered bike. If you ride with fast company she might take offense with you leaving her behind all the time. If it is just you and her and you are on the beemer it's not really an issue.

your current thought is the correct thought - go a season really racking up some miles on the thing and figure out what you can live with and what's a deal breaker. how often do you ride two up? If it is maybe once or twice a year not worth getting a different bike for the both of you. If it is once a month, suck it up and go buy a concours14.

I think it originates from jalopnik where their last 3 or 4 in a row cars and coffee burnout and crash videos were all mustangs, and it just took off from there. Point is don't be a jackass leaving cars and coffee. unless it is that other "exotics cars and coffee" event...then be a jackass all you want.

If it were me I would just keep it GM because of the aftermarket support and parts availability. You can get the mounts and brackets for every car from a 60's GTO to 1980's Iroc, and the space largely supports it. From what I hear with old mustangs, the hardest part is that any trans you can use behind an LS would require the trans tunnel and parts of the drive-shaft tunnel enlarged. but if you are going to do it it's your issue to solve for. Dat diamond stitch blue velour interior. So 70's street machine. Completely tacky but I have to be honest they are cool in in a "you don't really see that anymore" kind of way.

I think in japan the S13 generation coupes were known as silvias where as the hatchbacks were known as the 180sx. Here in the US they were both 240sx and known as the hatchback or coupe. In japan the coupe had fixed headlights where as the 180SX has the same pop up headlights we got here in the US. Interestingly enough the coupes were available in XE and LE trim as well as base and SE, where as the hatchback was only available in Base or SE. The only reason I know this is that I grew up in flushing, NY which has a very dense Asian population. There used to be a pretty healthy market for silvia front end metal. In my mind the only reason to even try to participate in the mild shit show that is the 240sx marketplace is to own an S14 with a rocketbunny V2 boss kit:

http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--5MuY3SZk--/eqmk7c4tdwrxqphwezw9.jpg

I was looking for something else related to rust repair last night and I stumbled on this link. It has pictures of the common rust areas for 1964-1970 mustangs so it is a good guide for what to look for when you go evaluate that 1970. http://averagejoerestoration.com/selecting-and-purchasing-a-classic-mustang/ LS swap a classic mustang? why? I get that it is "easier" and such because you don't have to modify the shock towers and ls engines put out a ton of power (more than the stock chassis can handle) but part of the appeal of having an old car is having the quirks of old engine tech. If it were me I would want a road race 289 or maybe a solid lifter engine, something with a top end and kinda stupid, like a street legal '65 GT350 race mill. I mean, the chassis barely could hold the 200hp these things put out stock (that's why the strut tower braces became so important) ramping it up to 400+ is going to require you to pour buckets of money in the chassis. If you just want to do it to piss off purists, put an old school 426 hemi in it and stand back and watch heads explode. If you want to be just billy badass you could resurrect this for the street: http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/5479428252.html

so aside from classic, 2-door and sporty what are you really looking to do? Do you really want a mustang? or will you consider other larger cars? Personally, I would really consider Lucore's '66 Galaxy. Sure it is larger than a mustang or even a fairlane, but hey, it's a fullsize. But they used to race them in nascar so it isn't like there isn't a sporty car lurking inside there. Are you looking for something engaging to drive, or is it really just cruise with the family to events? Mustangs are great because they have the largest old car aftermarket and can be made really sporty. Bone stock, the suspension blows dogs for quarters. Also despite being "big ol' american iron" the interiors in them don't really have great leg room. Sure they are wide, but length the 4 door honda civic has more back seat room. 1st and 2nd gen camaros/firebirds are the same thing - amazing aftermarket but stock suspension like a buckboard. If you are looking for an old car to drive aggressively but don't want to invest a lot in suspension right away, I would consider a GM A-body from 1964-1972, esp Buicks, Oldsmobiles, and Pontiacs. The front suspension geometry is awful (positive camber as the suspension unloads) but they make inexpensive parts to fix it, the rears are coil spring with 4 locating bars that usually only need a decent sway bar, boxed control arms, and something to limit wheel hop to be pretty darn good. If you want to go back a little further(1961-63) you can get A-body pontiacs with a transaxle and buicks with independent rear suspensions. If you don't care about power or a back seat, but do want some handling prowess I would look at a 1965-69 corvair coupe as well. I had a '66 monza convertible that handled awesome in the dry (wet was another story because the car was unbalanced). How about something like this: http://sandusky.craigslist.org/cto/5521631095.html you can haul a lot of family in the back and it does it all just not all well. Look at how clean a car you can get for the money, and you can spend the rest on making it a yenko Stinger clone: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/5536440027.html does it have to be american? I have owned a shit ton of junky old muscle cars and to be honest one of the cars I consistently regret selling and pine for is my 1976 BMW 2002: http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/5535960838.html if you are looking for something you can really tear in and modify these tend to be the bargain of the old bmw set, the only issue is resale: http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5492060875.html But fender flares, wide gumbals, an m42 swap it would be a pretty hot car. They drive like a heavier 2002 but have all the front suspension improvements. And there is that old saying that every car guy needs to own at least one alfa romeo: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/5517157813.html

On old motorcycles i drill rotors for weight savings, not for any performance enhancing reason. Some of those old rotors can weigh as much as a modern wheel. I'm sure this is the reason modern rotors are drilled on performance cars too. The only advantage I have heard about slotted rotors is the clear debris from the pad which for a street car makes sense. I have no idea if it is true or not, but it kinda makes sense. Point is, buy what you like, doesn't sound like it makes a difference anyway.

thanks!

link to rules? tech?

no, in an older post regarding wheel repairs it was mentioned there was someone else who comes to your house to do wheel repair, I am just to lazy to find it. Edit: found it http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1879088&postcount=14 I would love to use wheel medic but their hours suck for me as they are the same as my work hours and I don't want to burn a personal day just to go fix a bent rim.

who was the mobile guy that comes to your house?

Get a real good look underneath that mustang. Esp the Torque Box. I can't tell you how many old mustangs I have looked at over the years with rusty, tweaked, or bad torque boxes. In fact it is probably the #1 reason I have never bought a classic mustang. It's not hard to repair them properly now that repair panels exist, but they are rust prone and for years were just badly patched and cobbled together when panels weren't available. Don't just look at the box, look at the support and surronding metal, without a strong one the car will basically jiggle like jello. here is a guide from CJ pony parts on how to install torque box repair panels so you can understand the area you are looking at: http://www.cjponyparts.com/mustang-two-piece-torque-box-1967-1970-installation-instructions/a/386/ If I were looking for a classic notchback mustang I would look at the 1965-68 body style, particularly the 67-68. Although I love the 1970 front end, the earlier cars have a road racing legacy in Trans am and european rally racing and just look the part sitting on fat gumballs at all four corners. I mean, just look at it: http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1967-shelby-mustang-groupiinotchback-9423-5117120-1-640.jpg I feel like maybe you should look at some of these cars in addition to that 1970: http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5495061715.html http://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5485817992.html http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/cto/5530723674.html http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5500081644.html http://youngstown.craigslist.org/cto/5519099534.html remember the old collector car adage about 60's mustangs: "they made too many of them for them to ever be really rare or valuable". Which means if you can't find the one you are looking for, wait a week as different ones come to market all the time. If you can't find a nice clean, driver 60's notchback for under $10K you aren't really trying. Oh I forgot to add, ask any seller if they have the Marti report for their car. http://www.martiauto.com/reports2.cfm Marti Auto Works has access to the database and can tell you what the car was originally built with by vin. It isn't worth paying for a car you don't own, but sometimes owners get them anyway so it is fun to look at. Finally, Mustangs have about 3-4 hidden vin numbers in addition to the original tag. Their location is different for every year but usually it is the windshield base and the left and right inner fenders (aprons). Make sure they all match so as to avoid buying a car that is a re-tag stolen vehicle. Also if the one on say the left inner fender doesn't match the rest of the car you might want to ask the owner about accident or rust repair using used parts. Look up the locations for the car you are checking out. I think Marti has a book published on mustang vin codes that has diagrams.