Moe7

if you can't figure it out try posting on http://www.explorerforum.com they're real helpful and friendly

you can try http://www.explorerforum.com too , they're usually pretty helpful.

at least for 240s they're suppsoed to be basically stock replacement shocks. i didn't feel like taking a chance when i got my eibachs so i just went with AGXs and i love them

my one 02 sensor costs $25 and sits right on my header

i have some apex'i silencers on my car right now, but they only come in 90mm and 110mm, so no SAE sizes from them.. they're basically just a smaller pipe inside the tip with sound insulation around it. also it needs to fit very well inside the tip otherwise you'll have an annoying constant rattling. i can take some pictures if you want a closer look

i've heard they're fine for getting engines (especially RBs) but don't expect much customer support. they mostly deal with supplying engines to other shops in bulk and don't really offer much in the way of warranty's other than a start-up guarantee.

sounds like u have the same synchro problems us 240 people have. after doing plenty of research i decided to try Redline lightweight shockproof and i have nothing but good things to say about it. it made nearly all my my synchro problems unnoticable and i no longer have the terrible grinding trying to get into second gear, even from a cold start. plus its a thicker formula so it gives a better feel going into gear. i know countless other 240 people who have the same results from using Redline and i have yet to see a downpoint, can't hurt to try... MT90 and heavy shockproof are also very good options smile.gif p.s. - my tranny has 103k miles on it...

1.0 in-lb = 0.113 N-m this is all according to my ISE book

1.0 ft-lb = 1.356 N-m

lol, and i will be the third to suggest Freshalloy

spark plug wires?? i'm having the same problem btw, i'm 80% sure its due to my wires/plugs being bad htough

moved...

did a little research and apparently this is a VERY common problem on 96-98 explorers... some guy bitched at ford and got them to pay for 80% of the repair cost, can anyone help me with what i should do?

I took the Explorer in today to the dealer to get some little problems checked out, one of which being the A/C not really working, always stuck on warm... I just got a call and it seems that that the A/C Plenum was bad and needed to be replaced and it would be over $1k . Can anyone help me out here or name a place where i can get this replaced as cheap as possible? Thanks a lot Morgan

240s are graemlins/fruit.gif

i'm gonna be asking u how those brakes are once they get broken in smile.gif BTW what i've been told is 500 miles of soft-normal braking. seems reasonable to me [ 02 December 2002, 03:54 PM: Message edited by: Morgan ]

the 240s w/VLSD and ABS had a 3/4 inch shorter driveshaft. I am working on getting a VLSD from one without ABS, but supposedly its no big deal. People have been using the longer driveshafts with no problems. From one site i have bookmarked: "A problem you may run in to when using either the J30 or 240SX (with ABS) diff is the extra length at the snout of the diff, which houses the ABS sensor. This adds about 3/4 of an inch of length to the diff, but is usually not a problem, as your driveshaft and tranny mounts should have enough play to negate this extra length. NOTE: The driveshaft in the ABS equipped 240's is 3/4 of an inch shorter to account for this - You may be able to find and use one of those if you have fitment issues. Many people run J30 diffs with no problems, though...Try it before you buy the ABS driveshaft or have yours shortened - You most likely don’t need to spend the money." EDIT: i need to quit clicking reply and waiting 10 minutes before hitting send tongue.gif [ 23 November 2002, 12:48 AM: Message edited by: Morgan ]

I am about to get a factory VLSD for my 240 but i want to find a place (and quote) to get it installed before i actually order one. Anyone know a place that would do it without having to pay an insane amount? Thanks Morgan

just off the top of my head i can think of Ca20E, CA18ET turbo, VG30E... i'm sure i'm missing something EDIT: here's some good info on it http://www.angelfire.com/retro/shaunp/history.html its the predecessor to the 240sx [ 11 November 2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: Morgan ]

what engine did it have?

yea, from looking through my shop manual the clutch master cylinder attaches directly to the pedal and is located right behind the firewall. the slave cylinder attaches to the clutch smile.gif

thats EXACTLY what my problem is!! how would i know if it was my master instead? thanks a lot

i've been talkin to people and from looking at my car i've determined that either my clutch slave ($20) or master cylinder ($60) has gone bad... i'm pretty sure its the master cylinder but is there anyway to check short of replacing both of them? basically theres no pressure in my clutch system at all and the pedal which is attached to the master cylinder feels as if its not attached to anything at all. i'll go tommorw and look for leaks around both of the cylinders but is there anything else to keep an eye out for? thanks

u don't need a TIG, u need to put on my header...

damnit i want a ninja 500 for $65 and cigarettes!!