ORourke

Same as the 01 LS6(rated at 385hp) cam, the newer 02+ 405hp ones are bigger. The additional displacement also makes it behave like a smaller cam.

Boost leak Untuned Only running X amount of boost with race gas would run________ your car was built for drag racing my car handles better(usually get this from FWD econobox drivers) You car has twice as many cylinders (from a guy with a motor swap and two power adders who just got beat by my N/A V8) "I was reeling you in at the end"

Best ET 12.89, best trap 111.95 on a different run. I've gone ~150 but never tried to top it all the way out.

LT1's don't have pressed in rocker studs. The rockers are self aligning,you might want to look and see if the groove at the tip is messed up. Are you using the stock valvetrain? Vinny, yes they're hydraulic rollers.

94 Camaro Z28, 91k miles, T-tops, six speed, power everything, polo green ext./black leather int. Paint is in great shape, interior in good condition. Has most bolt-ons and a mild cam, ran 12.9 @ 109 with what is on the car now. $6500. E-mail or PM for more details or questions.

94 Camaro Z28, 91k miles, T-tops, six speed, power everything, polo green ext./black leather int. Paint is in great shape, interior in good condition. Has most bolt-ons and a mild cam, ran 12.9 @ 109 with what is on the car now. $6500. E-mail or PM for more details or questions.

It's possible, he'd need at least gears and a convertor on top of what you listed but guys have gone low 12's with completely stock internals. I'd have to see a slip before I'd believe the trap speed with that ET though. I'd also like to know how he's going to run trick flow and edelbrock heads at the same time.

The bad part is right after the traps when you get to dodge all the potholes, and puddles if it has rained recently. Lots of fun to come through the traps at 110 and see a huge freaking puddle in front of you. The last time I went there was a 2-3 ft. pipe in my lane about 50 feet past the stripe, either a chunk of driveshaft or exhaust. When I told the track official in the pits he told me to "just drive around it". graemlins/nonono.gif

No, but I do. If some kid gets one and wraps it around a tree thats his problem. I'd rather have a horsepower war than ten new kinds of SUV's every model year. graemlins/gay.gif

It doesn't bolt to the engine block it bolts to the head, hence the name "header". On an inline 4 it's usually pretty easy when the stock manifold faces foward, at least compared to doing headers on a 4th gen f-body. Anybody with basic automotive skills can install headers, assuming somebody makes a direct fit header for your car. Depending on the design it will either bolt to the head and flow into the cat or replace the cat entirely. I doubt you'd see much, if any, gain on a sonata.

Who said I have no respect for fast cars? I don't care one way or the other about the import vs. domestic thing. Go to trails on a saturday and then tell me that the majority of "really fast" cars in Columbus are 4 and 6 cylinders, or just dig up the results of the King of Columbus races.

graemlins/wtf.gif

While we're mag racing check this out- http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/features/0407pon_gtotest/ Same day, same track, 3 different drivers in each car including Evan Smith of MM&FF fame.

You'll see stuff like that all the time at the track. New driver+street tires=shitty times and traps. I dropped more than a second and gained 7 mph without touching anything on my car between the first time I drag raced and a few months later at Norwalk. I haven't seen a Mach 1 get anywhere near the times you claim for yours, but I don't doubt they can just because I haven't seen it done.

If you guys are having that many problems give every mod/admin 10 bans and 1 veto and then close registration. Problem solved. graemlins/lurk.gif

WTF? I must have missed something between 2PM and this. There's always been bitching and stupid people on CR. We have more members now, that means more of them are going to be stupid people who like to bitch. I don't see the huge problem unless something extreme happened today?

Maybe its just me but I like to diagnose stuff before I start randomly replacing parts. Get the car up on jackstands and check for excessive play in the wheels. Grab each wheel and try to pull away from the car towards you, and then check for side to side and top to bottom movement. Also look in the fender wells to see if there is rubber on anything that would indicate the tire is rubbing. Its impossible to point to any one thing when all you have to go on is "it sounds like the tires are thick". graemlins/wtf.gif

You need .030 over pistons.

Because when you build race engines for a livng you can't waste time learning about stupid little details like rod bearings. Anyways, bearings are for pussys. Just put some assembly lube on it and it will be fine.

It wouldn't hurt. I change mine every spring regardless of mileage, I think they reccomend it every 15k miles. If the T56 they use in your car is the same as in F-bodies make sure you put ATF in it, not oil. If you take it somewhere make sure you tell them at least twice or you'll end up with the wrong stuff in your trans. I assume the engine flush/cleanser you mentioned is some kind of top-end cleaner like Seafoam. It's a solvent that breaks up carbon deposits in the intake manifold and combstion chambers. That's pretty easy to do yourself, just suck it in through a vaccum line. Smokes like crazy when you use it. It can foul your plugs and O2's though with all the carbon it gets out. I'd do it right before you change plugs. I don't know the mantainence schedule on your car, but personally each spring I do- Rear end fluid Trans fluid Plugs Fuel filter clean the K&N PCV valve oil change if not done recently Maintenence is cheap insurance for your drivetrain. It's not going to do anything but help, unless you do something stupid like putting engine oil in a tranny that uses ATF.

Cutouts don't sound good, especially on cars with headers and no cats. But they do pick up power for cheap and you just cap them when you're not racing. And mustangs sound good because they have true duals. Most exhausts on an F-body just sound like a truck.

There are a ton of ways to make power with an LS1, just depends on how you want to do it and how much you can spend. If your car is stock I'd get an air lid and a cutout welded into your exhaust first. Should cost $200-300, counting paying somebody to weld the cutout in, and pick up 20+ hp.

If the LS1 is the same as mine(I'm pretty sure it is) there are just 4 screws holding the ends on. Basically the sensor itself is sandwiched by the metal MAF ends. It comes apart into three pieces, the two metal ends and then the thin black plastic sensor. It comes apart really easy, just don't drop it or bend the wires on the sensor itself. A new MAF is pretty expensive, like over $300. A MAF translator would be cheaper and you could fine tune the A/F with it.

You'd be quicker with 4.10's. Why would so many people swap in lower gears if it made you slower? The big advantage is off the line. Gears will really help a motor that makes power higher up in the RPM's. You'll get in the power band faster and stay there on the shifts. It won't make as much of a difference on a car like yours that makes a bunch of power down low, but it's still a mechanical advantage.

When are you reading .100? Like at wot, idle etc...? Have you done an OBDI conversion?