ORourke

Is it just doing it at idle? If so you could just have some reversion from your cam. Also, an exhaust leak before the o2 will make it read lean. You could also swap injectors from left to right and see if the problem follows.

For what you spend on the LT4 conversion you could get a better flowing set of ported LT1 heads and a cam of you choice. 425hp is a flywheel number, and even that is very optimistic. Check out www.combinationmotorsports.com for heads/cam packages, they're very competetitive price-wise with the LT4 conversion and will make a lot more power. I've also heard good things about Phil from www.advancedinduction.com. If spending 4k on a blower setup is an option I'd just get heads/cam and then spray it. LT1's don't handle boost too well with the stock hypereutic pistons and 10.5:1 compression. Some people get lucky, but some people have to rebuild after a few thousand miles.

Stock cam? If not, did you check the dowel length on the new one?

Do you have a vented or non-vented opti?

That's the first thing that came to my mind when I read this thread. But, now that it's stripped you might want to go to Sears and get the Craftsman bolt-extractor sockets. They work wonders.

They're 24#(light blue), thanks everybody. I didn't realize Ford color coded them.

I'm trying to figure out what injectors are in my car. I have blue SVO injectors, but I'm not sure if they're 24 lb. or not. There are two numbers on them. On one side, F1TE-D5A. The other side says 0 280 150 947. Anybody know what these are?

Are they stainless? If they are you probably don't need coating. I've had uncoated stainless headers for two years and have no problems with rust. If they're just regular steel I'd spend the extra $100 and get them coated though.

Like the title says, I'm looking for a place to install 4.10's. Price is a factor, but I'd rather pay more and have it done right the first time then do it twice. Any reccomendations?

#25. We need a top 25 ET list.

I had the same thing on my car, turned out to be a burnt plug wire. Is it worse under heavier load, like half throttle in 5th at low RPM?

The stock clutch is pretty good, if you're not planning on adding a lot of power just replace it with a stocker or the SLP unit. The SLP clutch is just an LT4 pressure plate w/holes drilled in it and a stock disk. Power loss could any of a hundred things, do a tune-up and if that doesn't help you might want to scan it and see if anything is out of whack.

Other than money I can't think of a reason to go with an LT1 over an LS1. The heads are much, much better from the factory. I've heard of people hitting over 400 RWHP with a cam swap on stock heads. You'd be lucky to get that with heads/cam on an LT1. LS1's also have a better ignition system, 6 bolt mains, and you can swap a cam without pulling the intake manifold. As far as longevity, some people say the LS1 isn't going to last as long with an aluminum block. On the other hand there are no LT1's in the 8's, while at least one LS1 car has done that. It's really just a question of money. You could find a 2-bolt main LT1 for ~1k used and running. Corvette 4-bolt blocks are a bit more, and LS1's are substantially more expensive. If you're going to build it up and go nuts with it you might be better off to go with an LT1 and put the money you save over an LS1 into mods. On the other hand, a heads/cam LS1 laying down well over 400 RWHP would be crazy fast in a car that light. If not, you can spray it.

Sent you a PM.

What suspension parts are you doing? Most of it is relatively easy, you can do rear LCA's in 45 minutes. Springs and shocks/struts all the way around is maybe 4-5 hours the first time. You can save a lot doing this kind of stuff yourself if you have the time and tools.

On Brian's dyno mine pulled 274 RWHP 314 RWTQ. It should weigh about as much as Steve's car but I never weighed mine.

I have a Proform from Jegs. I like it because its cheaper than any of the others and it doesn't use those gay little pills that cost so much, there just a dial on the back from 3-11k RPM. It has three wires, one ground, one power, one for the tach input; really easy to install. Its not really neccesary unless your factory tach sucks, mine reads ~6100 RPM when I'm shifting at 5700 according to the Scanmaster. If your tach is accurate just save your money.

no. The thing to remember about horsepower is it is just a measurement of how fast you deliver torque. Its basically torque in a given period of time. HP=(Torque/5250)*RPM. At 5250 RPM horsepower and torque are always equal because the equation for horespower uses torque divided by 5250 and multiplied by engine speed to give you a horsepower number. Gearing mainly does two things. It inreases your mechanical advantage to the wheels, and it allows the engine to reach high RPM's more quickly when accelerating. I'm not sure if I'm reading this right, but your dad said if you were in 5th gear and floored it you would have pulled him? That is way off. The whole reason you have 4.56 gears in your cobra is so that you can get to the higher RPM's where your 4.6 DOHC makes power. If you started in a .67 overdrive gear you would bog the hell out of the engine.

The whole thing begs the question, why? There are so many cheaper and easier ways to go fast with an F-body. If you're going to swap a carbed SBC into something start with a lighter platform. But, if you end up doing it make sure you install the distributor before putting the engine in. It will be under the cowl and its not coming out or going in without pulling the engine.

Welcome to the joys of owning an LT1. If it hasn't been replaced recently, do your fuel filter. It takes about 10 minutes. If its not a tune-up type issue(plugs, wires etc...) its probably just being tempremental. I notice my car feels great one day, and slow as hell the next. It might also be pulling harder on the top end so the intial acceleration doesn't seem as intense by comparision. Check for sparks on your plugs and wires if you recntly installed headers, a lot of people(including me) have burnt plug wires due to the stock routing being so close to the primaries. If you've been to the track before go back and compare before and after trap speeds. If your trap speed went up don't worry about it. On a side note, an AFPR doesn't make much difference after about 10 minutes because the computer changes the long term fuel corrections to make up for the change in pressure. The computer will also correct for any changes caused by your mods, unless you swap cams or something like that.