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Farkas

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Posts posted by Farkas

  1. Problem is when the time comes to move you will fight this battle when selling. Would you rather fight it when it's new or after who knows how long of the fence being up without a issue?

     

    A problem when he moves? How so? No realtor is going to be like, "OH YEAH, THE ASSHOLE NEIGHBORS BUILT THEIR FENCE ON 6" OF THIS LAND, SO YOU'LL HAVE TO DEAL WITH THAT IF YOU BUY THIS HOUSE." :lol:

     

    I don't think the typical buyer would even know better, nor would they REALLY care. It's a fence.

     

    Maybe that's just me *shrug*

  2. I'd just remember you have to live next to this guy until you move or he moves. I mean it's a fucking fence. Do you really care that much?

     

    This.

     

    Is it REALLY that big of a deal? If they didn't half-ass their sections and made sure it doesn't look like it's held together with zip-ties, why worry about it?

     

    I don't know about you, but I have plenty of better things to worry about than 6 fucking inches of grass.

  3. http://imgur.com/sT4yC1al.jpg

    http://imgur.com/VJk7Y1il.jpg

    http://imgur.com/BRZX2TQl.jpg

     

    Andrew, I totally hear your complaints. Was getting a little nervous about all the tubing needed to make all of this work over the weekend. I priced some Accuair V2 systems, and determined I'll stick with the manual valves for now. I have a 50' reel of DOT air line...which would be fine if I was 'bagging a Smart Car. :lol: I ordered another 100' so I can get from the tank to the switches (all 4 bags will get their own dedicated line from the tank to their switch), then to the bags themselves.

     

    Also ordered 25' of 4ga wire to take power from the battery to the trunk. This is a LONG CAR, so I want to make sure I'm not dealing with too much voltage drop over 20' of wire to the compressors!

     

    Next up will be cleaning up the trunk, laying the carpet back down, and permanently bolting the tank and compressors in place. Then, running power/air lines, and testing the system for leak-free pressure to the switches/gauges. After that, I'll be measuring the cups for air-bag installation.

     

    You shouldn't have to do four lines from the tank to the switches.. I would run a single 3/8 from the tank to a manifold which then splits it up into four lines into the paddles... THEN you should have four lines going to each corner.

     

    Edit* It's also a good idea to include a Schrader valve on the tank in case something keeps the pumps from running and you need to fill up in an emergency. Also, a quick connect for power tools or an air hose to fill up your tires with air is really really handy, too. Absolutely make sure you use water traps unless you want to drive around with a ticking time-bomb in the trunk :)

  4. Still waiting for the Brothers Farkas to expound on how I'll hate the manual valves (respek their knowledge), but to share some of my thoughts:

     

    - Most of my research showed the cheapest/simplest/most reliable air setup involves manual valves

    - This will be my first air ride setup.

    - Once the system works, if I need to make upgrades to air lines/air management, I'll be happy to do that. Already I can see that I may upgrade the 5gal tank to a larger capacity aluminum tank at some point soon.

    - If an air-ride system makes the car worth a bit more as a finished product, might try to flip it and start another platform.

     

    Excited about getting the components! Going to get the Lincoln up in the air this weekend to start measuring.

     

    Sorry, don't visit CR all that often so wasn't able to get back to you right away.

     

    In my experience with manual valves, which I had on my white GTI before I sold it, it genuinely made me hate the car for multiple reasons. I also built mine on an incredibly budget minded setup and regretted it from the beginning.

     

    Here's what I learned:

     

    1. Manual valves are the cheapest because they're literally the worst. They work, but they're terrible for just about everything. You have to run separate air lines from the tank to the valves, to the gauges, and to each of the bags. This means a TON of air lines throughout the car, and the more connection points you have, the better chance for leaks. Placing the valves somewhere with all the lines hanging off the back can be a HUGE PITA as well.

     

    2. Run twin compressors before a single with larger tank. A 3gal tank will be good for a single down and up, and the twin compressors will fill it up really quick and reduce run time by a ton. A single will run forever trying to fill a 5 gal, and generally too long before it overheats and causes failed check valves, or burns up the compression ring. Not to mention, if the single compressor fails, you're beached.

     

    3. Don't even bother with PTC fittings, and if you do, triple check with soap and water each fitting isn't leaking when they're in place. They leak incredibly easy with any bend or a bad cut in the air line. Compression fittings are the best option, IMO.

     

    4. Even if it's the cheapest electronic management, it'll save you a million headaches over manual valves. They install 30x easier with very few wires. No extra air lines other than the ones going to bags which minimizes chance for ruptured lines or leaks. Most have PSI presets so you don't have to fuck with the manual paddles for 15 minutes before you drive to get the ride height right. Also, I would much much much rather replace a bad or stuck valve than chase down 40-50ft of air lines looking for where a damn leak is coming from. The chance of them failing isn't really all that often and if you prep the system with anti-freeze in the winter, you'll never have freezing. Freezing will happen with any system without proper winter prep.

     

    TL;DR - Do it right the first time, otherwise you'll hate life.

  5. For his low budget I'd be afraid of the quality of any electronic setup you could get. My buddy has a ride-tech setup on his 64 Deville and has constant problems with it and no amount of hours on the phone with their tech support will fix it.

     

    I've never heard of ride-tech... so that's probably part of the problem lol.

  6. I have this unit...and it's better than i expected it to be. HOWEVER...it won't do big stuff. It'll take off wheels and tires up to about 110 ft / lbs. but that's the limitation.

     

    You can almost always find a way to buy it with coupons and sales for like $80...and the extra batteries are $15. Of the cheap units it's actually my favorite.

     

    I have to borrow my brother's M18 unit to do axle nuts and bigger jobs though.

     

    Did you get the weaker one? I saw two versions, one is like 150ftlbs and the other is 330ftlbs. I love mine and I haven't had anything it won't break loose, yet. Hard to beat for the money, regardless!

  7. ya let me strongly note if you are even remotely a tire kicker/low baller/someone who wants to spend 30 minutes going over a sub 5k car please do not waste my time or theirs. Just accept this is not the situation for you and move along.

     

    My thoughts, exactly. This would be a 4-6k car normally, that was simply parked and is being sold after sitting. You guys act like it's got a laundry list of issues and no idea if it runs. Offer $2,200 and run... that's an absolute steal.

  8. They have awesome glass that's generally better than some of Canon's, however, their AF system downright sucks balls. Not to mention resale on their items is awful. I learned the hard way a couple times... I just avoid Sigma all together, now.
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