Renner

Backed it on up. http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_258_full.jpg Ya, I didn’t want to suck up all Hua’s bandwidth, so I uploaded a few of them to my cardomain page. Forgot that they put their stupid logo on the pics, lol.

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_251_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_252_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_253_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_254_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_255_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_256_full.jpg Hua's photo skills own. [ 18. April 2004, 08:06 PM: Message edited by: Renner ]

Thanks Hua for the awesome photo work as always. http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_242_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_243_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_244_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_245_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_246_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_250_full.jpg

Stillman, quit going being such a tool. Obviously he didn't know, but now he does. I am willing to bet there was a time where you didn't know about the whole "bimmer" deal either, so quit going out of your way to flame people.

For some reason, bimmer is typically used when referring to the automobile, and beemer is used when referring to the motorcycle. Forget the reason, I think I remember it being pretty dumb, but I am sure there is a website out there somewhere explaining why. smile.gif

He is using the KA not the SR, the harness and ECU plugs are different.

BTW, this is off to the tech section. smile.gif

There are several options for a standalone, all depends on which features are most important to you. Here is a quick rundown to just give you an idea of what’s out there. If a plug n play version were available, my first choice would be the AEM EMS. It has proven success, and I have been very impressed with the amount of flexibility I have over just about everything with the vehicles that I have tuned with it. However plug n play is not ready yet for the 240, the AEM engineers are supposed to be working on one now. So in the mean time you would have to use a different non-240 specific box and make a custom wiring harness. If you were going with the SR20DET the Apexi Power FC is a plug and play standalone and would be another great option. I don't believe they have an application for the KA though, but I could be wrong. For “one size fits all” stand alones, which come with an un-terminated wiring harness of their own, there are a few more options: Electromotive TEC 3 Autronic SMC Haltec E6K or E11 SDS as was mentioned earlier Efi Technologies ($$$ ) Others based on retaining the stock ECU in a modified form: Jim Wolf Tech reprogrammed stock ECU MAP ECU speed density piggyback EPROM emulator with real time trace The JWT ECU will require the least amount of work, will retain all of your stock accessories and drivability, but it has a large lead time to get it and you have to send it back each time you want a reprogram, or run a piggyback like an AFC for minor tuning changes. I currently have a JWT ECU in my 300ZX, and it has been great, starts every time, and you know it is a safe program as long as you don’t overboost. I plan on having it reburned for bigger injectors, and using an AFC2 for fine adjustments. It is simple and reliable. The MAP ECU will allow the ECU to recognize a boost signal with a map sensor, but has limited tunability in certain situations when compared with a full standalone since it is still a piggyback. It is like the HKS VPC but with laptop programmable maps and more points of alteration. An EPROM emulator is basically what JWT does, just doing it yourself and allowing future changes by the end user. This requires a decent amount of programming knowledge and is not for everybody. The TEC3 comes with it’s own coil packs and has a pretty good windows based interface. The Autronic comes with it’s own optical trigger disk which is a plus. The Haltec is a bit older, and I don’t like the interface with it as much as some of the others. EFI technologies has a very professional level product. I loved working with it because it has more options to play with then you could ever possibly dream of, but will most likely cost more then the whole rest of your car, lol. If you want any more details about a system, each of these have their own webpage you can read up on, or just ask me here if you have a specific question. I just didn’t want to type out a novel listing every detail from each of them. We have quite a bit of experience with Nissans, and Ricky is our resident 240 expert so I am sure he will chime in if I left anything out. If you want to see how well a SR20DET can run with just the stock T25, I am sure he would be more then willing to take you for a spin, or you could just ask Hoop-D... tongue.gif -Brett

So does the car have vtec or not? The type of afc you use is dependant on that.

This is going to tech now in an effort to keep it tech related...

I would recommend intercooling if you can instead of relying on water injection. The aquamist systems are pretty good with the exception of their pumps, apparently the pump they use is crap. If you log on to www.twinturbo.net and do a search for aquamist you should be able to find some good info. Just be sure and actually search instead of posting a question on it over there, because it has been covered a bunch.

It depends on the car really. Certain cars, such as the MK4 Supra, use the knock sensor for dynamic timing control all the way to redline. Therefore with the MK4, the maximum amount of timing advance is determined by how much the car knocks. So in this case, by putting in higher octance fuel and resetting the ecu, the car will make more power with only adding higher octane due to the timing advance. For any boosted application, a higher octance fuel is almost always safer and therefore "better". Many other cars however, only read the knock sensor in lower rpm ranges. They do not dynamically adjust timing throughout the rev range based on knock. In this case, running extra octane above what is required to stop detonation will not help you much, and may contribute to extra carbon build up.

Ok, so I have a Linksys wireless system for my laptop here. I have my desktop pc on it too and have no connection problems with it as I am using the regular old RJ45 cable for the desktop, it is only the wireless portion for my laptop that has problems. I have the network setup with a specified name, lets call it “LAN1”, and I have the encryption stuff all setup as well. The connection works fine, but about every 5-10 minutes a little window pops up saying that “more then one wireless networks are available”, soon after that I can no longer connect to the web. So I click on the window, and my wireless network connection property window opens up. Another wireless network named “wireless” is now shown under the available networks. My network “LAN1” is no longer available (has a red x over it), and I am of course still no longer connected to the web. I hit the refresh button 2-3 times in the wireless properties window, until my network “LAN1” is available again. I can then continue on my way for the next 5-10 minutes or so until it all happens again. I moved the Linksys router to a different spot on top of my desk instead of under, and I would say I am probably only about 15 feet away within direct sight of it, and it sill acts the same. The only networks listed under my prefered networks is the one I made, "LAN1". Why does it keep booting me from my wireless connection, and is that why it is then looking for and finding the 2nd network that isn’t mine? Thanks in advance.

Huh? Specifically which True2Form was this? I know that Jeff is a manager at one of the local True2Forms, and there are plenty of people here who have had excellent work done by them, myself included. So are you trying to imply that True2Form was the one who did the damage to your car? Maybe if you could provide a few more details this would make a little more sense.

E-mail or call down at the shop, we can get whatever you need. www.ipsmotorsports.net

You can get valves that aren't really that noisy. Also, if he would like to have it routed back into his intake to hide any of the noise it would make, we can get it work without much problem at all.

The Bosch valve is not designed to be open to the atmosphere. With the car at idle, it will have enough vacuum to pull the valve plunger open, and suck air in. This is ok if the valve is routed back to the intake tract as it should be. If it is open to the atmosphere though, this is bad because that is air not seen by your MAF, and obviously it is not filtered either. What car is this on?

A stiffer spring can definitely help with wheel hop because it will change the natural resonant frequency of your suspension.

We can do any of the work you need, just give us a call down at the shop if you want to discuss a few options. Check out our projects section, we have plenty of experience with this type of work, the link is in my sig.

Nope, wasn't me, I have been living in a hole recently to get all my shit wrapped up. Thanks for the compliments though, so what is the latest story on your S4?

It is most likely ~44 psi with the car at idle and the vacuum hose to the regulator disconnected. With the vacuum hose connected and the car at idle it will probably be more like 35 psi. I could be off, haven't had to look at the fuel pressure on a stock 3S in a while, but those numbers are pretty standard for most return style fuel injected cars.

We can make you one, just a few questions first. How much power do you want to make? How soon would you like to start this project? Do you want a custom one because of a specific turbo and placement you want, or are you looking for something cheaper then the mass produced manifolds currently available? BTW, here is some of the work I have done in the past: http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_195_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_198_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/4/web/160000-160999/160293_200_full.jpg We use a TIG welder to do all of our welds for manifolds. See the link in my sig for more info. smile.gif

Glad to see you are finally ready to get her back up and running again. graemlins/thumb.gif

Do you have a bolt on kit in mind, or are you planning on doing something custom? If you are trying to do something custom I would recommend having an experienced shop fabricate the kit for you if you don't have experience in this area, especially since it will going on a V6 with limited engine bay room. This will of course be more expensive, but it is the best way to make sure it comes out right.

It is most likely a wheel speed sensor, and you can check each sensor with just a multimeter. They have a high resistance when they go bad, which is basically the only way that the ABS ECU knows that they are bad in order to throw the code anyway, because it just monitors the resistance value of each sensor using an internal voltage-divider circuit. There should be a plug on each one about a foot or so of cable away from the sensor itself. Just undo the plug, and check the resistance of the sensor with the multimeter by using the two leads in the plug. I forget off the top of my head the approximate resistance value they should be (maybe like 1000 ohms or something), I can find it later, but regardless if one is bad it will be extremely high compared to the other 3, or might show up as just being an open circuit. Just try and be gentle with them, because they are not cheap to replace in most cases, so you don't want to kill a good one and make your problems worse. I messed up one on my Z a while back, after I heard the replacement cost I got to splicing wires and just fixed it instead.