Renner

Do you plan on venting this to atmosphere, or using it as a recirculation valve plumbed back into your intake? Depending on the vacuum your car pulls at idle, many stock type units such as that bosch one will leak at idle. The spring is not strong enough to hold it closed all the way at idle, and it is not adjustable, the stock recirc valves on my car are like this. This will make your idle very shitty if it is vented to atmosphere since you will be sucking air that the ECU will not know is there. Go with one of the newer styles by some of the bigger names, Greddy or HKS. The spring pretension is adjustable and some can be fitted with different heavy duty springs if you begin running higher boost levels. You get what you pay for, and a leaking BOV will give you many headaches. Greddy type R standard spring would probably work great for your car, it has a large valve area, and a long throw for moving larger volumes of air, and they have different sized threaded ends for the outlet as well if you wish to use it as a recirc valve. Here is a link to see some different BOV's: http://www.alamomotorsports.com/products.html

For $75, I doubt they did much at all. They probably just stepped up the base value for the load graphs. Meaning, they just richened it up a little all the way across the board. Be sure and get before and after dyno numbers, so you can get your money back when you don't gain any power.

Can you pull the clutch pedal back up by hand? Has the pedal been difficult to push at all before this? Check the hydraulic system or cable first, if they are ok, then the throwout bearing could be causing your problem. If the throwout bearing is bad enough, it could be seized on the input shaft. The pressure plate fingers/springs are what pushes it back along the input shaft when you release the pedal. It it is bound, the spring force of the pressure plate may not be enough to get it to slide back. So you would need to pull the tranny to fix it anyway, so you may as well replace the clutch at the same time. But since the car feels like it is in gear, then it is probaby one of the previously mentioned problems.

The list? Uh oh.... Nice sig BTW.

Nah, I wasn't trying to correct you. In fact, I pretty much just ignore your posts anymore. tongue.gif

Never mind, I looked up the info myself. It does in fact have a coil pack type ignition setup, and yes it does have spark plugs. These are pics and descriptions of the DOHC 2.2L GM ecotec engine, so maybe the pushrods are for a different variation. Some of the articles state that the valvetrain uses roller cam followers, mounted on needle bearings to actuate the intake and exhaust valves. I looked at the cutaways also, I don’t see any pushrods anywhere. I am a little confused why an overhead cam engine would use pushrods at all. If the non-ecotecs use pushrods, then they are most likely not DOHC engines. http://www.gm.com/automotive/gmpowertrain/engines_cartruck/ecotec/images/22l61_lg.jpg http://phobia.net/~snapb1/images/Ecotec%20motor.jpg [ 23 June 2002, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: Renner ]

It sounds like it has coil packs instead of wires, which isn't too uncommon. But I am not sure that GM has come out with some sort of technology that allows them to totally eliminate a spark plug? I can't say that I have spent any real time looking at cavalier engines in the past few years, but I can't imagine that they came up with something that would actually be cheaper to use then spark plugs. Which happens to be a very important factor with car manufacturers. They don't just throw technology on a car unless they think they can get buyers to shell out the extra $$ for the technology. What other GM cars use this? It would be very useful to not have to change spark plugs on cars where spark plug access was difficult. I am sure that they are pretty easy to get to on a cavalier though. Links? Pics? I'm not a cavaier expert, just curious.

I have no idea what kind of injectors that you have stock, so I can't offer too much help, but this link might be useful: http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonictech/fuel_injectors/RCtech.html

I know of a body shop that could probably help you out with a better deal then most of the bigger name places around here. Send me a pm and I will get back to you with the phone number and location.

This is just a start: It could be something simple, like a loose or corroded ground wire on the alternator, starter, or main chassis ground. Try and trace some of those main large gauge wires first, and check the connections. Second thing I would check would be the alternator. Don't replace it, check it with a load tester or have it checked. A fried internal voltage regulator could cause all sorts of problems. Plus, it could pick and choose when it felt like charging the battery, hence the occasional needs for a jump start. Do a load test on the battery too, it could be a combination of both, or one making the other go bad since they are wired as a closed system. Either way, I would get it checked out by an experienced mechanic very soon, or else she will probably be smelling some smoking compents soon enough. A bad voltage regulator can put extra strain on a battery too, and when batteries get hot, they vent flammable gases, not a good situation either. Post more details as you get them, I will check back later.

The barometric pressure (BP) sensor allows the ECU to compensate for changes in the altitude by measuring the actual pressure of the atmosphere, it should have nothing to do with measuring the absolute pressure inside your manifold. Although some companies do combine the MAP sensor, and BP sensor into one unit because they work similar mechanically, even though they measure different things. MAP sensor means manifold absolute pressure sensor, which you probably already knew. Absolute pressure is different then relative pressure; the manifold difference pressure you are referring to is probably a relative pressure device. A MAP sensor combined with a BP sensor is what gives you a relative pressure. MAP-BP=Relative pressure, which would most likely be the manifold difference pressure, it all just depends on what terminology they decided to use. Atmospheric pressure near the surface of the earth is just that, 1 atmosphere (1 atm), which equals about 1.013 bar, and also equals about 14.69 psi. As you go higher up in altitude this pressure decreases obviously, which is where the BP sensor comes in. So when your tire gauge reads 30 psi , this is a relative reading, so you really have 44.69 psi absolute, and when your aftermarket boost gauge reads 15 psi, this is a relative pressure reading, this is why it settles to zero when the car is off, you are at zero psi relative to the atmosphere. But at 15 psi relative you are really running about 29.69 psi absolute. So, if you have a 3 bar Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor, that is basically the same as a 2 bar manifold relative pressure sensor in terms of measuring the pressure in your manifold. Now, whether or not the output values of the sensor to the ECU will be the same, is totally dependent on how the sensor is set up. If you have any more details, then I might be able to help a bit more.

Check out Columbus Colweld for the crank work and honing. They do most of that type of internal work for some of our race engines, very professional, and always done on time. I would recommend having the crank polished, sized, and magnafluxed (crack checked) by them all at the same time if you are going to have it worked on. You can find them in the phone book. They are located next to ERS (engine rebuilders supply) just south of downtown, down the street from 3-C. [ 29 May 2002, 01:57 AM: Message edited by: Renner ]

I can braze the fitting on if there is a small overlap of some sort, like where the fitting fits inside the rail. That is actually how I have made a bunch of steel AN fitting adapt to normal type fuel rails, like on Jeff's VR4. I just need a welding rod and an Acetylene torch, which I of course do not own. So if you can come up with one I could help you out. How easily does your fuel rail and injectors come out? You will need to remove everything from the rail, since it will get nice and hot. Got a pic I can see of it? Certain types of joints do better with brazing then others, but I have never had a fuel fitting leak yet where it has been brazed properly. And the fuel system on Carl's car (the 930) uses some very high pressures in the lines of the CIS system, as in apporaching the limit of what the braided steel line can handle. [ 23 May 2002, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Renner ]

You can get universal type keyless entry systems at any Best Buy, but I wouldn't have them install it. If you don't already have power locks, they sell actuator motors also for about $20 a piece. Your best bet is probably a stereo shop like Columbus car audio, but they will probably charge you a decent amount to do it as well. It isn't really that hard, you could probably do it yourself. I set up a keyless entry system on my car that is activated by the aftermarket alarm that was already on the car, plus I had to add a actuator motor. It just takes some relays and wires to get it to work. If you need some help let me know, I may be able to give you a hand when I get some more time.

I'm thinking test the throttle position sensor first. Do you have any sort of air/fuel gauge on the car? What does it do when you try and accelerate, go too rich or too lean?

Everything in my engine bay is a pain in the ass to work on. http://images.cardomain.com/installs/160000-160999/160293_44_full.jpg Fortunately, it doesn't break down that often.

The Wheel Source in Dayton may know where to get them. I know they delt in a bunch of unique Supra parts for a while because Dave was racing that yellow one.

Ya, not bad for 5 minutes of work. Photoshop opened up halfway and froze on me twice so I just did it in paint. I figured that Brian already knew what I was talking about anyway, but I just wanted to make sure that my description made some sense. BTW: Yes it could be a bent shift fork. If you are not getting the full range of motion due to a bent fork the operating sleeve may not be fully engaged into the gear. Do you have any problems getting it to click when you are putting it into 1st?

The teeth on the actual gear have a reverse bevel to them to help hold things together. The shape is kind of like a pentagon. Under load this shape acually pulls the operating sleeve onto the gear face harder. Once these get worn down there is nothing to keep the operating sleeve locked onto the gear. Usually a tranny rebuild will only replace the synchros and maybe the operating sleeves, this will only temporarily fix your problem. To fix it for good you need to replace the operating sleeve and the actual gear. Might as well do the synchro at the same time, although the synchro has nothing to do with actually holding the operating sleeve onto the gear. Here is a very very rough and exaggerated top view of the shape of the teeth. Worn teeth loose their pentagon shape. http://images.cardomain.com/installs/160000-160999/160293_77_full.jpg

Meguiar's cleaner wax may help some also if it is not too far imbedded into your clear coat. It is less abrasive then a clay bar so you may want to try it first.

Just so you know, the 14" and 16" Perma-Cool high performance electric fans both are rated to move 2950 cfm of air. They list for around $84 and $89. I have an 18" Perma-Cool on my car, works pretty good, but is only rated at 2500 cfm. At the time I bought it, it moved more air then the rest, basically the biggest they had. But they have since bumped up the rpm's on the smaller ones so that they move more volume, and they are cheaper then the 18". Here is a good link for a do it yourself water injection kit, it even has some part numbers listed. But this one describes spraying the water into the inlet side of the compressor, not very good for the leading edges of the compressor wheel at all. http://www.dawesdevices.com/howto.html

If you can find the section of the harness that is damaged, you could just replace that section instead of the whole harness. That is more of a "patch" then a true fix, but if you don't want to spend the time and money to replace the entire harness then that is really your only option. It all depends on where the bad spot is, if it is easy to get to or not. Did they actually identify where the harness was messed up? Or did they just figure that this must be the problem? If you can't find the actual bad spot, or if Tuffy couldn’t show it to you, then you may want to take it someplace else for a second opinion. I don't think that Tuffy muffler is the best place in the world for engine diagnostics unless you know somebody working there who knows his stuff. Also, are you sure that it is $500 just for parts? You might want to get a quote from the dealer yourself. The entire EFI harness for my car lists for only $350 brand new from the Nissan dealer. And my car is loaded with engine sensors, probably a lot more then a non-turbo 4 cylinder, making the harness more expensive with all the extra connections. Not trying to insult, it just doesn't make sense to me that it would cost so much for the harness for your car. Sorry that this does not appear to be a simple, cheap fix after all, but are you glad you didn’t just buy a fuel pump and hope it worked?

Hey Kyle, we met briefly on Friday. I have to see when I can line up some shop time. It may not be until the weekend after next if you can stand to wait that long. Exhaust work is a bitch without air tools, so doing it on my garage floor is a pain in the ass I don't want to have to deal with if I don't have to. I should know sometime during the middle of this week when I will have time. Shoot me an e-mail if you would like to discuss more details. Talk to you later. -Brett burton.122@osu.edu

Ok, thanks for the handoff Mark. smile.gif Well, about the clicking and grinding noise, is this while you are actually starting the car? If so then it is probably something with your ring gear on your flywheel or the engagement gear on your starter. Which should not be related to your hesitation problem. If it is immediately after you start your car, then the return spring on the starter engagement gear is probably wearing out. Causing the gear not to immediately release giving you that grinding noise. Like Mark said, it sounds like they were trying to sell you a turbo. I very seriously doubt that your turbo is the cause of your problem. Well, hopefully Passen did actually replace your plugs, and hopefully they gapped them at least close to correctly. If this did not seem to improve your problem at all then it may be a problem with not getting enough fuel. Hopefully your coil packs are not going bad because those are not cheap to replace. So if after some testing and inspection your ignition checks out fine then something with your fuel supply is probably not right. It may be something simple like a fuel pressure regulator or maybe the filter or the injectors are a little clogged. Unfortunately, I don’t really know what else to tell you without actually checking it out for myself. I might have a bit of time to take a look at it this weekend if you like. I am supposed to have some other friends cars to work on too, but I should have time for a quick look. At least that way if you want to take it someplace else to get fixed you have a pretty good idea of what the problem is before you get there. Send me an e-mail (burton.122@osu.edu) if you want some free advise and I can tell you when I am available this weekend. Or if you want, you can meet the group out at Hooters this weekend. Then you could have 70+ people standing around your car all at one time trying to figure out what is wrong, wouldn't that be fun! -Brett [ 22 February 2002: Message edited by: Renner ]

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Your right but every car "primes" the pump at the first turn to the on position... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Uh, I am sorry to sound like a dick, but this is not true at all. How can you state something like this, have you worked on every car ever produced? Like I said, for the third time now, NOT EVERY CAR will run the pumps when you turn the car on. Some do, and some do not. Some cars, mostly German cars, have a fuel pressure sensor at the engine. If the pressure is within the correct limit, the fuel pump will not run with the key in the “on” position, at all. To get the pumps to run you actually have to unplug the pressure sensor switch so that the ECU sees an open circuit, thus firing off a signal to the fuel pump relay(s). Otherwise the ECU actually needs to get a signal from the crank or cam angle reference sensor before the fuel pump relay(s) will be powered. Porsche, BMW, Mercedes, and VW all have used a type of this system. This is mostly found with a Bosch control unit system, and since Bosch has some form of parts are on pretty much anything mass produced in the past 10 years, I am sure that there are more cars out there that use a form of this, not just German cars. I work at a shop where we work on German cars pretty much exclusively. I can’t say that I have even had to touch a Saturn in at least the past 3 years. So instead of automatically telling him that he should always hear his pump, all that I stated was that you should do a bit more diagnosing then that to be sure. If you will read, my very first sentence was: “It does sound like a fuel problem. But first check for spark. This is usually the easiest thing to do” Very next sentence: “If you do not have a fuel pressure gauge, or if the connection is difficult to get to, then there is an easier way to check if it is your fuel pump if the pump itself is easy to get to” gee sounds kind of like I was telling him to check his pump first and giving him a couple of different ways to do it. I also wouldn’t want him to inspect all of the things that I was talking about in my second post, that was just to demonstrate that there can be and often are other problems behind it, and not to automatically assume that it is the pump. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>If you put the key in and turn it to "on" and dont here the pump prime then its the pump...If you want something more solid if your car is not starting and your doing all this cranking...do you smell gas...if you dont smell gas after cranking it a few times its pretty obviuos what the problem is<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> What if he does have fuel pressure but the injectors are not firing? How is he supposed to smell gas then? You stated that it would be pretty obvious if he did not smell gas, but that leaves a whole bunch of things not covered. Sounds pretty obvious to a parts swapper. Just replace the pump, if not replace something else.... <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Your "Fuel Pump Relay" primes the pump at initial power...then runs the pump at start up... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> You are correct, the fuel pump relay is the power source for the fuel pump, hence it’s name. But on many EFI cars, including mine for example, the signal wire to cycle the fuel pump relay to the closed or “on” position IS in fact controlled by the ECU and the ECU alone. The relay is just a switch, it cannot decide when to do things without some sort of signal wire to close the switch. This is the wire usually coming from the ECU. I am sorry that this post had to turn into a pissing contest about who knows more, but I do know what I am talking about, trust me. I can show you a factory manual about the fuel operating systems if you like. <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Everyone seems to be trying to give you all these "educated" answers that wont do you a whole lot but confuse you...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I would assume that this is directed at me. I guess this means that you would rather take the “uneducated” approach to solving this problem? I am sorry if these answers don’t do a whole lot but confuse you, but it is called process of elimination. That is why in my very first post I tried to give him a few simple things to do and a couple different ways to do it. [ 20 February 2002: Message edited by: Renner ]