slow4now

He is having a problem installing the shock/sping assembly into the car, not a problem putting the shock/spring together.

Could be a chipmunk was eating the valve!

EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation. This is a component/system used mainly for emissions control, but it can affect driveability, fuel mileage and idle. I personally would fix it, but I am not sure what exactly it can/will do on a ford as I am not familiar with them at all. Maybe someone else that knows the 302's can chime in here...........

The second gen Supras only come with a NA motor. Are you sure he doesnt have two 3rd gens? The body style before the MKIV twin turbos? If he has a MKIII, the engines are different. You will need the intake mannifold, the injectors, the distributor, the ECU, the entire wiring harness(all of the wiring, including the dash wiring!), and he can keep the NA block and just use the head, but this will raise the compression (it will work however). I verified this with a friend of mine who is more knowledgable about it than I, and that is everything you will need to do. Later.

Remove the fuel pressure return line and vacuum line from the OEM fuel pressure regulater. Remove the regulator from the fuel rail by removing the 2 10mm (I think) bolts. Installation is reverse of removal. I hope that helps!

I agree with the possibility of a bad valve guide.However I don't think the valve was hitting the piston (that would be more likely to bend a valve). Check the spark plugs for signs of detonation to hopefully eliminate that as a cause. Check the valve seat and surrounding area for damage(if the one edge of the valve seat looks signficantly more worn than other sides) from a misaligned guide. What happens is when the valve seating is off square, the valve flexes everytime it seats,causing it to eventually break. This is more than likely what happened, but without pictures it is hard to say.

Yes the distibutor has bearings in it, and they go bad occasionally. Like you said it could be a tensioner pulley, it could be anything. He just has to figure out where in the engine bay it's coming from and that would greatly help narrow it down.

Pop the hood of the car and rev the engine until you can duplicate the noise. It could be a belt, it could be your A/C compressor clutch (if so equiped) it could be your disributor bearings (although they usually make a grinding noise.) you may be able to pinpoint where the noise is coming from yourself. If you can't get the noise to occurr when parked, it is something in your drivetrain. Later.

Your friend is almost guaranteed to have other porblems with his engine. You can check the turbo by pulling the intak pipe off, and wiggling the compressor shaft. If it moves any more than a millimeter or two, it may need a rebuild. I doubt the turbo will be damaged, so if it doesn't wobble a lot when you move it don't worry about that just yet. He could have cylinder wall scarring, a marred piston, broken ring lans etc.etc. The important thing is to figure out why the valve broke, if it was from extreme changes in temperature (detonation as previously stated) then he need to find out why. Usually valves break at one of two places, right where the stem meets the head or where the keeper grooves are machined in the end of the valve. Let us know what you find out. Later.

Fatigue failure from valve flexing, excessive valve lash which causes pounding, stretching from high heat or high RPM, and sudden temperature changes are all cause of valve breakage.

I would guess about 130-140 wheel horese power, but trbocrx would know better than I.

Yes, I am done with this as well.It is obvious that my words are falling on deaf ears for whatever reason. My intention was never to ruffle feathers or try to pump myself up, I just wanted the original poster to have as much correct information as possible. I have seen tons of misinformation on numerous boards and it gets old quick. I have been wrong many times myself, and even though I absolutely hate getting proved wrong, it is part of the learning experience. Heck, just a month ago I had a misconception about something engine/turbo related and FINALLY had a conversation with a friend that lit the lightbulb in my head, telling me what I had previously thought was wrong. It wasn't anything he said specifically, he just kept asking me why why why and finally I told him something that was wrong, and he told me why so. Anyhow, good luck everyone with your cars and endeavors. I'm sure we will meet sometime and hopefully will have civil less-cerebral conversations. If anyone has any questions feel free to PM me and I will answer them the best I can, or will point you in the right direction. Later!

The controller greddy gives you, which basically uses the MAP sensor to up the voltage to the injectors, and slighty retards the timing, it comes with the kit for 95+ civics. And I'm sorry but there is no cookie cutter optimization, it can come close, but the best way is to get it on a dyno with a wideband and play with it.</font> Sorry, I missed this reply before. I didn't realize you were talking about turboing a B16A. If you do just a B16A swap CORRECTLY there is no tuning needed. If you turbo a B16A properly, there is not much tuning needed, but extra tuning never hurts and would definitely help in most cases. The blue box Greddy gives you in the 92-95 kit doesn't allow for any adjustment, so I don't know what tuning you are going to do with it. Also, it does not retard the timing. You have to do that yourself by mechanically retarding the distributor. The blue box stops the MAP sensor from seeing boost, and therefore prevents the CEL from coming on. It also acts as a boost dependent fuel regulator to richen the air/fuel mixture under boost.

Why do YOU think he is using those cams? Also what "besides the drawing" makes you think it is turbo? I know why he is using those cams, but do you? I have presented extremely thourough answers here, now it's your turn

We were noth talking about pretty much the same thing, although I wasn't aware Toda made such a thing. Crane Cams also makes something similar (although I think the actual technique of doing so may be different, same effect).

We aren't arguing, this is just a technical discussion.

I should have also added that the cam has a revised profile. You could lower the Vtec engagement RPM with a V-AFC, but the car will run horrible. In reguards to more lift at lower RPMS....Idle quality would suffer tremendously,emissions would be horrible and engine turque/response would decrease dramatically. The low cam profile is designed for good gas mileage, good idle, good throtle response and more torque (relative too a Honda!). With many Vtec cams, the vtec engagment point must be raised to prevent power from falling off before and during the changeover. to the higher cam profile.

Correction:What I meant to say was the it keeps the cam on the higher Vtec cam PROFILE, not cam as originally stated.

Also on the note of high compression ratios and forced induction, the are perfectly compatible BUT you have a much smaller tuning window with higher compression ratios, so it is much less forgiving of tuning errors. What do you think the racers (all forms of it) have been running while they are saying they only run 8.5:1.......Later.

You are correct about dialing out overlap about cams (whether you intended to be right or not). Overlap is when both the exhaust and intake valves are open, when the pistons are near TDC (top dead center) on the exhaust stroke.So, moving the intake and exhaust events away from each other will decrease the amount of overlap. However it is important to expel all of the charge air that was burned so the engine can get an uncontaminated charge of air.(Ashes do not burn,and that is basically what is left after the combustion cycle). If the intake valves are open at the same time as the exhaust valves, the incoming intake air can help push out the exhaust gases, and not the engine will have fresh air to mix with the fuel and hopefully a more powerful explosion will occur.This is why some overlap with a turbo motor is good. Of course all of this must also be timed with the postion of the poston and crank, but hopefully explained myself well enough without going that far with it . The compression of a motor made of a B18B block,B18B pistons, a stock 3 layer Honda headgasket a B16A head and stock B18A piston to deck height would be roughly 9.55:1 cr. A stock LS B18B motor has a CR of 9.20:1. Yes their are thicker headgaskets available, (Greddy and Cometic both make them) and they are made in variable thickness. A head gasket 2mm thick (0.07874 inches) will lower compression on a stock B18B to 8.62:1 (.58 points). I think when you say Vtec Killer cam you may be talking about the roller kit. It basically keep the engine on the High Vtec cam thourghout the entire RPM range, therefore the lift is no longer variable. I'm trying not to take your last comment offensively (as I'm not sure you meant it to be a negative comment directed to me.). However, (don't be offended as this goes for everyone and I don't mean to direct it to you) but if you DO something WRONG your experience doesn't mean anything. I would rather have someone build me a motor that has only done a dozen or so CORRECTLY than someone that has been building motors for 20+ years and has done them INCORRECTLY. Later.

You can dial out overlap with cam gears. I don't know anything about "vtec killer cams". There are cams that are turbo specific that generally have slightly higher lift with roughly stock duration on the intake cam and shorter duration on the exhaust. The only way to kill vtec that I know of is to either disable it (disconnect the vtec solenoid) or get a roller cam system. Even if you kept the compression ratio the same on the B18B LS somehow (thicker headgasket, lower CR pistons, or milled the non-vtec head to raise compression on the stock LS motor), the LS-Vtec will still produce more power.Even when using stock Vtec cams,and that goes for NA or Turbo applications. As far as I know (but don't quote me on this!) a B16A head on a LS block only raises the compression by two tenths(.2) of a point. As far as head flow numbers go, I honestly don't know what they are off hand, but you could e-mail portflow and I'm sure they would be glad to give you the numbers accompanied by some charts. Later.

Sorry, accidentally double posted! [ 12 May 2002, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: slow4now ]

On a side note, a turbo ZC is good for tuebo just for the fact that it has two cams, making tuning a lot easier.

Just because someone can use a die grinder doesnt mean they are qualified to do headwork. There is more to headwork than just openeing everything up and getting huge CFM's out of it. Port shape and air velocities are very important, and cannot be learned without a lot of first hand experience. Go to www.portflow.com and e-mail them and to what they say about vtec versus non-vtec heads. They are highly reguarded when it comes to Hondas. Later.

Vtec heads flow MUCH better than non-vtec heads,this is a benefit with or without turbo. With turbo a little overlap can be good just not too much,and overlap can always be dialed out. IF ( just for arguments sake) you had a turbo B18B (non vtec Integra LS) and then put a Vtec head on it from say a B16A2, you would make more power. Period. To get a non-vtec head to flow close/same as a Vtec head it requires over a grand in head work. But to each his own I guess.