slow4now

I'm willing to bet that a clutch upgrade is cheaper than a clutch from Toyota. Check out Exedy, I know they use OS Giken discs on the Honda units, so I'm sure that they make an excelent clutch for your Corolla.

I have nothing to do today until this evening (Titans game), if you want help with it. I don't have room in my garage though so you would have to find someplace to work on it. If you don't get to it this weekend, I would be glad to meet you at my work to fix it. Later.

I don't quute understand what you are saying. You could just pay me to come and fix your car. smile.gif

Did you use the proper fluid? Did you use the right amount?

Depends on your budget. The key to making reliable power is tuning. A V-AFC would be "enough" if your budget doesn't allow for a stand alone, using the V-AFC hack can work wonders. If you don't know how to tune or don't know of a reputable tuner for Hondata or the AEM EMS, the money spent won't do you any good. Just remember if you go the Hondata or EMS route to budget in money for dyno time. Hondata is a great system IF you can have it properly tuned and the base maps would allow you to drive your car to the dyno.I think AEM's EMS would be a bit overkill for what you want. Hondata is pretty simple to use, check out their website for more info. Hondata

Throttle cable probably broke, thats a pretty easy replacement on most vehicles.

The starter is almost directly beneath the distributor, it is a little more towards the rear of the car. I cannot begin to help on diagnosing the problem based on the information you've provided. If you could answer the questions I've asked maybe I can help.

It could be any number of things. Could be bad plugs, bad fuel injector/s, bad gas, bad idle control solenoid, air in cooling system (bit of a stretch), bad TW sensor etc. etc. So what is your complaint with the car starting? That is a bit confusing to read....Does the engine turn over? Can you hear the starter working? Do your dash lights come on?

Of the major Japanese brands, the best is HKS. Sounds great, looks cool, and will not leak. Apex-i Twin Chamber is by far the worse.It sounds like crap and will leak mere weeks after installing it, it is a real POS. Blitz and Greddy are a toss up, though I like the Greddy beter. TurboXS is okay, TurboSmart- I've heard good things about them. The next BOV I buy will be an HKS. Hope that helps, I didn't feel like getting anymore detailed, too lazy. [ 22 December 2002, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]

Try a bottle of Tecron when you fill your gas tank up next. It will clean up the injectors, it works realy well and is very unlike the other junk additives.

Cryo treatments basically re-align the molecules in the part that is being treated so that they are more uniform. So instead of having some weak areas where the material may not be as dense, it makes them less porous thus making them exceptionally stronger.You could say it spaces the molecules more evenly. I've never read anything but good about it. It would benefit any metal part, I think it would help cast parts moreso than forged parts though. So Cryo treating a block would be a good idea, it would be a lot less likely to suffer a stress fracture do to weak spots. [ 15 December 2002, 10:09 AM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]

Here is a link to a good article on speeding successfuly (i.e. minimal risk of getting a ticket). I think most people can learn a thing or two from it, they bring up many good points and I have been using this set of rules for quite some time. Read it, learn it, live it. Rules to live by when speeding.

That deal sounds too good to be true, I would call the place if possible to confirm the pricing. That doesn't sound quite right to me.

Porsche>Honda>Ferrari

I always use Honda filters on my car, excellent quality. It helps that I get them for free but even if I had to pay for them I woud use 'em. This of course, is of no help to anyone but us Honda drivers. I would stick to OEM filters thats for sure.

jesus christ. NEVER EVER NEVER put a FRAM filter on your car. They are ABSOLUTE shit, I know 3 people who have had engine falures related to fram filters.</font>What kind of engine failure, and how were they able to prove 100% beyond a reasonable doubt that it was from the fram filter? What types of engines were they on also?</font>Maybe the Fram filters had a black hole inside where all of the oil was disappearing to, thus starving the motor of oil?

Do a leakdown test. If it stops smoking after the car warms up chances are good that the valve seals are just bad.

If it were the wheel bearing it would more than likely be making noise. Rotate the tires, just becuase they are new doesn't mean that one of them isn't bad. If you have them rebalanced, ask if you can watch. Look at the tire as it's spinning to see if it wobbles. If so the tire is going to vibrate like mad becuase there is a slipped belt, some other defect in the tire, or the wheel is bent. If you can somehow watch the actual wheel spin, you should be easily able to tell if the wheel is bent. Hope that helps. [ 06 December 2002, 10:11 PM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]

A) Wheels & tires out of balance B) Bad tire C) Bent wheel Those are the posibilities. Try rotating your tires, it may go away.

You need to pull the code before you go tearing into it.

Did you get the driveshaft with the LSD? I do believe the 240's equiped with the V-LSD had a inch or so shorter driveshaft.

I just wanted to add, make sure you get the correct O2 sensor and you don't have to get the heat shield that goes on top of the mannifold, just the ones that go around that cat. Later.

Anytime. smile.gif

Yes, you will need the mannifold(includes cat), O2 sensor and heatshields. Just a heads up, but the cat may not be bad... the tech may just be covering his butt in case he cannot get the O2 sensor out.

The catalytic converter is part of the exhaust mannifold on that car. You will need a O2 sensor socket to get the O2 out. Sometimes the O2 doesnt want to come out, so you may have to re-tap the threads.If you don't have a bench vise, try to break the O2 loose while everything is still bolted up. Just because the O2 is bad doesnt mean the cat needs replaced. Unless there is a rotten egg smell, the mannifold is cracked (very very common), there is a CEL or you cannot get the sensor out, I wouldn't replace it. If you do get a new mannifold and you get it from a dealer, order new heat shields as well as there is a 1 in 1000 chance you will be able to remove the old ones without ruining them (yes you do need them). I cannot comment on the quality of aftermarket parts. If you want to buy Honda parts PM me, I should be able to hook you up. Otherwise this is a very simple procedure.