slow4now

The best thing to do is find out what other people have had success with. Find some people making the power you want to make with the same engine and use the same injectors.

Depending on how big of an injector you are getting, Low impedance will probably be cheaper. Also once you get over 440cc you may have a hard time finding a saturated injector for the size you need. 440cc and up I would go with peak and hold.

T3's can be had with internal or no wastegate. External Wastegate > Internal Wastegate [ 25 September 2002, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]

What those numbers mean.

You mean for once Snap-On was the cheaper alternative!

I've heard good things about Aeromotive, but I have no first hand experience with any of them.

Worse case you could order one from Snap-On or Mac Tools.

Yes it is.

A good impact gun and lots of air pressure are your friend.

With the 800, did the car turn over? If you get the car running, I can check your charging system for you......or you can take it to an AutoZone. If you are killing batteries chances are your Alternator is toast. Must be that Owned light causing you problems.

Why do you want a test pipe? You do know you will get a CEL from your secondary O2 sensor, right?

I don't think the O2 being bad will affect your N20 runs because when you are under WOT the ECU is in closed loop, and does not use the 02 sensor values to adjust fuel. Have you checked your spark plugs? If you were running extremely rich you probably fouled your plugs out. I don't know anything about your other questions, and to be honest I am just taking a stab in the dark with my replies but if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me. tongue.gif

Um no. Just bolting on a Vtec head onto a LS bottom end will not give you 210hp. Type-R head = hand ported B16 head (different cams of course). Just get a head from like a 99-00 Si and save yourself a lot of money.

SCREW YOU HIPPIE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I still say it's the main relay.

He didnt break the Auto tranny because he is makeing insane power, the Auto's are just weaker than the 5-speeds (i.e. their are a few more parts to break).

Exhaust-no, header-no, intake-yes , springs and shocks-yes, sway bars-yes, front tie bar-yes, rear tie bars-not sure, short shifter-yes, front & rear speakers-yes, transmission-yes, engine-yes. [ 24 August 2002, 11:18 AM: Message edited by: bigbabyjesus ]

It's a rotary, you can't prevent that!

They are probably just cheap brake pads (autozones etc.)If you wear the pads down to the wear indicators they will squeak when you are off of the brakes. Generic brake pads will usually squeak due to cheap/poor quailty (duh!) pad compounds. Their is also a shim that goes on the back of the pads to help prevent squeaking, yours could be missing. Just a couple of quesses to help get you started.

Are you using lock-washers? If not that's your problem. There is no reason for those bolts to come loose, unless they are made out of plastic.

The Bosch fuel pumps are almost twice the size of a Walboro.

Theres another thing I forgot about! 2g BOV's are notorious for leaking!

I forgot to add that the manual and auto second gen DSM's are the same (other than the tranny of course!). The cams and injectors are the same.So don't waste any money buying those parts! Have you though about the valve body kit or the end clutch kit for your car? I forget who makes them (I can find out though) but they would improve the performance of your auto tranny. If I remember anything else I'll let you know. Later.

I agree,from everything I have read/heard the Bosch is a higher quality unit than the Walboro.

You would definitely see an improvment with the TD05-7cm housing.A larger exhaust housing will increase your top-end (will also increase lag a little, but hey you have an auto!). You can get a 7cm^2 Mitsu Exhaust housing from Turbotrix for about $230. I'm pretty sure you will make up that 4 tenths you want.