slow4now

I would say do a compression test, but seeing as how deisels don't have spark plugs I don't know how you would do that.I think it's safe to say..... 126hp at the crank (when it was new)+ 3000 lbs. + 17 year old engine = a turd.

To add to that, they have an adjustment ring that rotates around the center of the housing which is used to adjust the noise...it is known to loosen and rotate freely, often blocking the BOV vent.

Glad I could help. I figured that's what you were talking about, but I wasn't 100%. Good luck with the project!

I'm not real clear on what your question is about how the cores come. They come pretty much ready to weld the endtanks onto,but they can also custom make endtanks for you. Here is a good site that explains how to fabricate everything. hot to make you own intercooler Later.

If you have the money, getting a Spearco core and then making your own end-tanks would be a good way to go. You would just have to find a place that welds aluminum, which I'm sure there are a few in town who do (TubeTech comes to mind). If you go that route I would be glad to help make the end tanks. Later.

Thats cool, whatever works. Here is a little info that a friend of mine came across reguarding mandrel bending..... What is Mandrel Bending?

I agree with Blu, although I think you should go to a dealer and get the genuine honda parts.

Sounds like he uses a pipe bender, not a mandrel bender.........

Call Steve @ Tube Tech. The number is 614-529-4130. He can mandrel bend new piping for you, but you have to have a guide for him (your old exhaust will do if you will use the same pipe routing).He can also do stainless. Later. BTW, I'm not sure how much he will charge you so Icannot say for sure if it will be in your budget........ [ 10 June 2002, 03:29 PM: Message edited by: slow4now ]

No personal experience, but the dealership I work at uses Dent Wizard. All of the work I've seen from them has been good.

Usually, the only thing to worry about tachometer wise is that they may not always read as high as you will need it to, however they will usually still be accurate (or as accurate as a stock tach can be). Usually this problem can be remedied by replacing the existing gauge cluster with the gauge cluster from the same car the new motor is coming from. I would have to know more details about what kind of car this is to help you any further. I will guess that it's either a honda or a rotary though......

Can you tell us what car and motor you are talking about please? [ 08 June 2002, 02:56 AM: Message edited by: slow4now ]

There are other things you can buy for your car that will be a better performance value than buying cams. Usually cams are one of the last things upgraded, sometimes along with headwork. In most cases you will not notice a performance increase with a turbo cam on a NA engine, sometimes you will lose power. This is because in NA form aftermarket cams usually have highlift and long duration, while turbo cams have higher than stock lift but shorter duration. I would buy the turbo kit, a new fuel pump, larger injectors, a fuel contoller of some sort (V-AFC or an FMU depending on whether you get an inline pump or in-tank) a custom downpipe,3" cat and 3" exhaust. SOOOO why don't you tell us your performance goals, and maybe we can guide you along to get there? [ 06 June 2002, 08:37 PM: Message edited by: slow4now ]

You are slightly better off with a 95 GSR from a performance stand point, as it is OBD I and is much friendlier to modifications.

Where do I begin? Let's just say Honda-Society is full of tools.....

Boosting a high compression motor is fine, but it leaves a much smaller window for tuning error. What do you think the pro-import racers (especially in Japan) have been running, while they are telling you they run 8.5:1 ?

No, most people do not eliminate VTEC when going turbo on Honda engines. Nor should you. smile.gif [ 05 June 2002, 10:10 PM: Message edited by: slow4now ]

Do these syptoms appear to be related to each other or no?

He works at Hugh White Honda, and he no longer has the car (sold it to someone out of state). That car was CRAZY fast. Little red hatch with black steel wheels......I was sad to see it go.

The only downside to having a turbo on a Vtec motor is tuning the point in the powerband where the Vtec crossover occurs, many times there is a dead spot before the high lift cam profile. Oh, another bad thing is traction, as you wont have much! [ 04 June 2002, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: slow4now ]

If you are thourough, a good shop vac with a very small hose taped to it will suck up any debris taht would fall into the cylinder....but I have never had to do this before so I'm not sure. If you can wait, I will find out for sure tommorrow........

I agree that you should go the helicoil route. If the spark plug would have broken off in the head than it would have been necessary to pull the head. Looks like you lucked out!

Sounds like a bad CV joint.

That depends on what you mean by power shifting. If you mean slamming it into gear when you shift and not easing it in, you can do it although it is hard on the tranny (synchros in particular). If you mean full throttle shifting I don't recommend it. It's not exactly good for your motor to constantly bump the rev-limiter. Sorry but I have met some people that have different definitions of power shifting! Later.

So I take it you no longer need a clutch recommendation?