Nitrousbird

Anyone in the know, is Verizon releasing a new phones soon. My contract has been up for a while, and I want to upgrade my phone soon. There are only 2 phones I've seen that they have that have what I want: - Camera - Bluetooth - MP3 - Flip-phone The 2 they have have been out for a while. I'd like to upgrade to a new-release if something is coming out in the next month or two (I could roll it into an X-mas present).

LOL. The 7.5" 10-bolt (not to be confused with the much better 8.5") has all sorts of weak points. - C-clips - Shitty 26-spline axles - Ring and pinion - Thin and small diameter axle tubes - Small bearings and weak bearing caps - Weak posi Let's start adding up what it would cost to take care of some of this: - $190 Motive Ring and Pinion package - $123 Gear install kit (bearings, crush sleeves, and all the goodies you should replace) - $538 Eaton Posi - $130 Rear Support cover (to TRY to help w/ the weak case) - $470 Moser Axles - $150 C-Clip eliminators (I believe required by NHRA if running 11.99 or 10.99 or better. You shouldn't run w/ C-clips). Let's add all that up. We are at $1601 and we haven't even paid to do the treatment on any of items, nor the cost of having someone setup your rear-end if you don't know how to do it. I paid less than $2300 shipped for my Moser 12-bolt. And it is loaded with 33 spline axles, HD Eaton Posi, ABS, Cover, 1350 yoke, no C-clips. I could have bought a no-optioned 12-bolt for about $1800-1900 shipped, and that would STILL be stronger than a loaded up 7.5" 10-bolt. Once you look at the numbers, it is freaking retarded to build-up a 7.5" 10-bolt. And yes, those stock axles are weak on those things.

Ummm....why?

There is a fetish for everyone I guess.

That dude's jizz looked like toothpaste.

That didn't sound healthy at all.

I work around there from time to time. Some nice homes there (a few very nice homes mixed in too), but shitty area. I'm very picky about the neighborhood I'll live in, as I'm not a crime fan, so I'd suggest avoiding that area.

Ehh, I have a Moser 12-bolt, and if doing it all over again, I'd have a 9" under there..........

That's nice. And it still wouldn't be a C6 Z06. There is a LOT more to that car than just it's stock 1/4 mile performance.

Sadly, that doesn't include an intercooler or turbo. The PTK kit is pretty much the best LT1 kit out there though.

I've heard nothing but bad things about the place. Of course not ALL of their cars are going to be beat to death. I mean, no place is going to buy only beat on cars. But it seems they get a much higher percentage than most places.

Basicaly it is a terrestrial re-broadcast of the Sat. signal. In case you are in a spot covered w/ large buildings, lots of overhead coverage, etc. it will use that instead of the Sat. signal. There is one in Reynoldsburg; I'm GUESSING it is mounted on the cell tower on Main St.

Higher minimum wages cause inflation. But people are idiots, and will vote for anything if someone makes it sound good to them.

I sure could recall a few months ago you were talking up the Explorer as if it was the best thing since sliced bread. If mounting the antenna outside, route the wires under the lip of the window trim, down through the door into the door boot, then whereever it needs to go from there. I've installed a bunch of car kits, and know a variety of ways to do it. Just please don't use the gay-ass suction cup mounts on the windshield w/ wires hanging everywhere; I see too many cars with that tacky setup.

I use mine all over town every day, no difference in signal at all. I noticed last week the local repeater was having an issue in Reynoldsburg (I leave my home kit's antenna inside, and rely on the repeater). But Sat. wise I haven't noticed any issue at all. That's both in my work truck and my Avalanche (and my Avalanche's antenna isn't even mounted outside the truck).

BS. 14 RWHP...whatever he is snorting must be good. The ring and pinion are only one weak link in a 7.5" 10-bolt. There is a reason I had a 12-bolt under my car before I even had headers. Sadly, some people might be dupped into buying this, throw a bunch of money into the rear end, and still end up needing a 12-bolt/9"/Dana. You are better off just buying a new rear, and selling your good rear for $300. BTW, if you add in the price of C-clip eliminators, upgraded axles, good posi, rear end cover, bearings, ring and pinion, you are approaching the price of a 12-bolt. So for anyone buying into this BS, don't...go buy an aftermarket rear and save yourself a boat load of headaches.

There are local "street" cars running faster than that.

You should also take that advice. I had a 1st Gen CRX (86 Si), zilch for options, bone stock (as all Hondas should be left as). Full tank of gas, without me in it, weighed it at 1950.

You can always go with a manual valve body. I'll most likely be swapping out my 6-speed for a TH400 w/ a brake and full manual valve body (no automatic features). The auto just launches better/more consistantly, and is easier on driveline parts. I'm not going to waste my money on a built 4L60E and pray every time I go down the track that it doesn't break. I like having a driveline I can count on.

They are that freaking light??!!! No wonder they are into the 6's. I figured it would be something at least in the ballpark of what domestics have to run for a similar type of class.

What are the weight and motor restrictions for that class?

No, but he will compete with you in a mad drifting contest, yo.

I'm no STI fan, but it would make FFFFFAARRRR more sense to dump money into an STI than a Civic!

I was just stating a rumor a few people told me about you. One guy told me you gave him a half and half for $50.

Plastitruck runs over your "I have to pull the motor to do an oil change" mobile.