Turbo Ben

Nevermind.....I fixed it, and I feel like an idiot. All I need is a new air filter. Which I'll pick up whenever I get the chance. Now all I need to do is replace my tranny, which will be sometime this week. And my Civic will be good as new, and have shorter gears.

OK, I've been having problems starting my Civic when it's warm. It just keeps turning over until after several tries. But it starts the first time when the engine is cold and has sat a while. I've had suggestions about the ignition coils. But I've also been told it could be the EGR valve since it does start on the first try when it's cold. What does everyone think?

Ok, some of the engine parts are interchangable. As for the other stuff, I know for sure the springs & struts are, and the shifter, and the speakers you should be able to get them to fit somehow. Now, when it comes to the strut tower bars, I'm really not sure, because the hatchback could be narrower than the coupe. That's one of those things you're just going to have to see for yourself. [ 24 August 2002, 11:21 AM: Message edited by: Check out my flux-capacitor ]

There's a maroon one for sale down the street from me. It's an N/A. I can check the price for you, it looks like it's in pretty good shape.

1 piece ceramic apex seals </font>Don't forget to super glue them in Please don't take that serious people.

It's not very hard at all. blkcivic explaind the best way to do it. Also, I do have one suggestion wire it to the parking lights, and then wire in a switch so you can turn it off if you feel like it.

Well, BP gas is the worst gas you can get. I know a few people who's gotten bad gas from them. Like bigbabyjesus said.....use Shell or Sunoco. I try to always use Sunoco, because they sall the 94 octane. And for the weight issue, most people say that for every 100lbs it's .10 seconds. Like I said before, it's more than likely your driving, which all you need to do is practice. And another thought I had was the possibility that your clutch is totally roasted, and needs replaced.

Try lowering your launch RPMs

How about this....don't deflate your tires. With having that little amount of power, you really don't need to. Also, I agree with Blackbird.....you need to practice more. When I had my turbo MKIII Supra and first started going to the track with it, I was running high 16's. Then after a couple more times going, I figured out the perfect RPM to launch, and perfected my driving and ran 15.6's all day long. And that's what Car & Driver got out of the car when it was brand new. Also, this was when the car was 10 years old, and with no mods. And I never did any prep to the car like deflating the tires, just drove there, lined up and ran.

I'm glad to see that you kids are playing nicely now.

It was alot of fun And as of now on Wednesday it is done.......for now.

Monday sounds good to me, I get off work at 3. I'll change and head over after that with the compressor and air tools.

Good thing i dedided to look at this thread before I replied to your PM Mark. My dad has a pretty good sized air compressor and IW. Which I should be able bring over, along with other air tools to make life easier. So, you can count me in.

Or you could just drive to one of the auto parts stores and look at the books they always have hanging in the light bulb section.

JB Weld works wonders, and I was going to use it on my Civic's radiator when it was cracked. But I ended up just buying a new one from NAPA, so I can auto-x. Which was amazingly the cheapest place

If you really want to prevent this and have the best sound quality, since you have subs you should just do away with the rear speakers and just get a set of good components for the front. i.e. like a set of JL's with the crossovers and 1" tweeter. Having subs just drowns out the rear speakers, and components sound 20x better. You'll be 1) Solving your UV problem 2) getting better sound quality.

OK, because I was going to buy a 1st gen Talon that did the same thing until the day I went to pick it up and it wouldn't start at all. Anyways, sounds like either a boost leak or your wastegate actuator isn't opening or closing properly (most likely) or you might want to check your air and fuel filters. [ 28 June 2002, 08:52 PM: Message edited by: Check out my flux-capacitor ]

This wouldn't be on a black 1st gen Talon that had an APC windsheild banner and Biddy Racing stickers on it when you bought it would it?

Try checking the cable that connects to the tranny.

I have Faulken Azenis and they're pretty freaking sticky. Whenever I drive through debris like tiny rocks I can hear them being throw into my wheel wells.

If they're interchangable just switch the light sockets themselves. Put the Brake one where the turn-signal one is. I'm willing to bet that it's that simple

It sounds like you just have a bulb burnt out. ALot of cars do that to tell the driver that a bulb is burnt out. If that's not the case then PM either Slow4now or Fixhondas, they both work at Hugh White Honda and I'm sure they'll help you.

Or you could just be really cheap and buy some JB Weld and slap it on there.

It should be the same as my Honda.....theroretically rhat is. But you have to compress the spring and put the shock together, including the top of it. Then it should slip in with little resistance.

I used to have an MKIII Supra, you're running on the same tire pressure I ran with. The rear will whip out at the slightest tap of the gas with those thins since there's no weight in the back and stock they're rated at 230hp. My suggestion....get your tires balanced.