Tractor

Desperado is right on the money. get that engine fixed now. Unless you wanna swap it. shouldn't be too expensive for the parts anyway.

As for Peekachoo if I have to be that specific I meant it does not have vacuum lines that control the vent ducts and other envirmental controls. I've hot wired the cooling system and did a pressure test. It was low and I recharged it. In the hot wired setup it will blow nice cold air, but only through the floor ducts and the recirc and A/C leds still don't light up. The service manual is very simple in that section and doesn't even bother to go into troubleshooting beyond what we've already covered in this thread. The electrical point to point diagrams show quite a bit of stuff that the A/C circuit runs through. Including the HI/LOW pressure sensors and even the ECM. If it has some type of code I haven't been able to retrieve one and I tried a hard reset. I'll try another one tomorrow and see what happens.

DIDN'T ANYONE READ WHAT I'M SAYING?????? Unless yal know something I don't the `95 GM C1500 truck DOES NOT HAVE VACCUM lines. Its electronic with solenoids to control it. I'm thinking along the lines of Rotary Convert that the ECU is stopping it do to an electric componet failure. Thanks guys, Evan

I agree DJ Magic Mike. Totally slammed in my trucks system. I used to compete in dB Drag Racing. There competition CD has some waves that will blow the shit out of weak equipment. I scored 142.8 dB most of the time I had it end. Then I doubled number of amps and pulled a 150.9 dB the last few times I ran it. That shit was off of 4 Cerwin Vega 10" vega series subs and 4 Pyramid 1200watt gold series amps. (don't laugh I've got more than enough pictures of me with trophies to prove it worked) Evan

I like that kinda thinking. Cheesesteak smile.gif

checked all fuses, voltages, grounds, performed a hard reset. AC relay is in good working order. Anything else? I work in the electronics industry and I know all about the throwing parts at a problem thing and would rather go at it with more knowledge first. Thanks

I'm intested. I"m not clear on the rules from the trails website. How much of an inspection is done. I don't wanna go out there a find that I need some shit I ain't got.

As far as I can tell its all electronic on this model, but your right the first thing I checked for was vacuum lines. didn't find any.

Hey just thought I'd run a problem I'm having past some of you guys. Yal seem really knowledgable about alot of car related stuff. I have a `95 GMC C1500 pickup and the vent controls stopped working. Its stuck comming out of the floor and the recirc and A/C lights don't turn on. The A/C compressor also doesn't cycle like it normally should. The blower control is working correctly. Its not vacuum actuated. Its electronic and I don't know alot about it. Thanks

Sounds like it could be a bad ground. Jeeps have that type of problem. get in touch with me if you wanna troubleshoot it. We can also test the throttle position sensor pretty quickly.

Sorry, you'll feel the front of the car shaking pretty badly. how badly depends on the condition of the CV joints. If 2 or more are bad you will have shaking violent enough to flex the whole chassis. My wifes corolla was doing that. was a pretty easy thing to fix.

I few of us at www.ohio4x4.com have them. You can get some really good tech help on our message board. Also try www.off-road.com and www.4x4wire.com

Could be a CV axle. Try moderate acceleration while turning left and right. A long turn like an onramp will be good for this test. Not so much power that it downshifts, but enough to pull and put stress on the driveline.

`95 GMC C1500

If you got fuel injection then you have a fuel pump that needs to build pressure in the fuel delivery system. It could be a clogged fuel filter or something else causing fuel pressure to build slower than normal. Try turing the key to the "ON" position for 3 or 4 seconds and then switch it to start. If that works then I'd say that is the problem. My 5.7L truck starts very quickly when you do that and if not then it cranks for a few seconds.

Its possible that the timing is off. I can get my headers to glow by advancing the timing.

I'm going to ask a question. Ready? Here goes, why the fuck would anyone want to do that. Is that the latest ricer thing or something. I guess its good for all the people that have cars and want cheap parts down the road because no one would ever buy one thats been hacked in that way. Hard enough just to sell a used car with a swapped engine.

The 98 model year used an EDI (Enhanced Distributer Ignition) system. Its part of the Central SFI(Sequencial Fuel Injection) system. I'm looking through my manuals and the EDI system uses a CPS (camshaft position sensor). Its possible that this is not in the correct position. The manual states that the CPS is used by the ECM to find the crank/cam position and will through engine codes, but probably won't prevent the vehicle from running (doesn't say how good.) My haynes manual for that truck/engine says when installing the cam align the dowl pin with the 9 o'clock position Page 2A-16 first paragraph and illustration 11.25.

Well I'm probably the radiator expert. I have 20 feet of radiator lines and 5 gallons of fluid in my system. turn the heater on and point the front of the vehicle at a very high angle (ie road bank on highway near stream or something) thats a good way to do it in the future. Also you should push on the radiator hoses to see if you can feel water flowing onces its reached normal operating temp.

Could be. Hey could anyone explain how electronic traction control works? I'm a 4x4 guy so I understand open diffs, lockers, and limited slips, but this most be totally different unless its some type of electric locker.

My bud has an 88 or 89 toyota supra and we were messing with it last weekend. He don't know alot about it and I don't either. There is a button on the center consol near the shifter. BTW its an automatic. It says "ETC" on the button. It has an O/D button too so I know it doesn't control the overdrive. I was thinking its some type of setting for the torque converter or something as I've seen trucks with buttons in them to make them shift differently for towing then for cruising. Am I right? Also it has a 7MGE engine what can you do with these to get more performance? Thanks,

No leaks. In case you don't know the mazda 626 with auto and the ford probes have a really sucky tranny. almost all 626 and probes seem to have problems with the trannies. I don't know which years have the crappy tranny, but I think its through 96 or 97.

I have a 96 mazda 626 LX that the tranny started slipping in. Its a 4 speed automatic. Its probably the same one used in ford probes of the same year. I had the fluid changed and it seemed to fix it. I don't know alot about auto trannies so I'm asking what other things can cause that type of problem. Thanks, Evan