Rotarded1647545491

Someone should check their mail!

Call Zavier @ the RX-7 Store. 771-8966

Wow, now maybe I can identify all of the nuts and bolts I had left over after my last few installations. "Rattle? I don't hear a rattle"

You have mail!

PM me a brief description of the symptoms and I may be able to help. Mike

It all depends where and what the split is. If you mean that the pipe broke in two pieces, and is on a straight section, the Autozone/Advanced have sleeves you can put over the section and clamp tight. This will hold well for quite some time. If the damage is in a curved section, or at the muffler or other joint, your kinda screwed. If you have a split lengthwise in the pipe, you could also check at the autoparts stores for muffler wrap or muffler repair kits. This will work for a very short period of time. You may also try about getting someone to hit the area with a mig welder. But, if this is the original rusty stock exhaust, you probably can forget about that working at all. Mike

Cuz you don't have one!

With an flat open hand, rub along the entire width of the tread to see if there are any high spots (tires feathered or cupped). Pay particular attention to the inner edges, nearest the strut, of the tread. If the alignment is off and some uneven wear has been caused, you will hear it at higher speeds. If the tread is ok on the tire, turn your steering wheel until it locks. Jack the car up in the air until the tire is off of the ground. Grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to push/pull in opposite directions with each hand. If the wheels moves or makes a popping noise, the bearing may be failing. Try the same thing grabing the right and left side of the tire. If you have access to a lift, you can put the car in the air with a driver in it and listen for the noise while he takes it to 40+ mph, although it may only happen with the weight of the car on the bearing or suspension. Also check by grabbing the tires like above and look for play. Mike

You can cap the EGR valve opening and run without one but your engine light will display constantly. The local "tree-huggers may not like you, but the car will operate just fine. It may also be a violation for disableing/removing an emissions device. The EGR valve just recirculates exhaust gases for recombustion to clean emissions. It only opens at RPMs above 3000 when the engine can handle the extra unburnt exhaust/crap in the A/F mix. If you have an EGR valve sticking open, or a gasket leak, it will cause the following symptoms: Stall, or near stall, when coming to a stop especially slowing from highway speeds. A hesistation between 30 and 40 MPH. Hope this helps, Mike

I believe you are correct in tuning about 10 more HP with the AFC. I have done it with an S-AFC on my previous car, although it was turboed. If it works the same as the S-AFC, and you know what your safe A/F ratio is, I could help/show you. Just let me know when and where you get your dyno, with wideband O2, scheduled. Mike

A few things you can do to check the plug wires: Inspect the wires/boots for any arcing marks. These marks will usually be small discolored ovals. Inspect the connections for corrosion. If there is any rust colored or white powdery build-up on the metal, replace them. With the car running, Mist water on them from a sprayer bottle. If you see or hear any arcing, they are bad. If you have an Ohms meter you can test the resistance of the wires. You are looking for a big difference between the resistance of the wires. Remember, the longer wires will have slightly higher resistances. You should be able to find the resistance spec range for the wires on the internet, or call a dealership. And the easiest test of them all.....Swap them with a set of known good wires from a bud's car! If you are replacing the wires, replace the plugs while you are at it. Just makes sense. Hope this helps. Mike

Yes, P0141 is a slow response/failure code for GM/Saturn O2 sensors via OBD2. Replace the sensor and clear the code. If you need more info. call me @ 759-1100 in the morning. Mike

I need a little more information in order to try and answer that question. What exactly are you looking to have installed/repaired?? Mike

Eric, If that has the 2.2 Eco-Tech engine in it, the bottom end is built well enough to hold about 300 hp. I'd highly recommend a 150 shot or more!! You'll just splode the air box if anything!! Rentals = disposable

There we go baby!! That's contributing to the CR community! No kidding!

You've seen this too, huh? I've actually witnessed a couple of drunken mullet-heads straightening an 80's Caprice, by attaching a chain to a telephone pole and doing "neutral slams"!!

Eric, The camber would be affected to the positive by the change in geometry if the bad shock is lowering the car, causing the bottom of the rim/tire to pushed outward. The toe would not be affected by this. It was probably knocked out due to impact(s). Mike

Brian or Berto, Give me a call about this @ 759-1100 Mike

If you are taking it to Hatfield, ask for Steve Foster to work on your vehicle. He worked with me for 4 years and is an ASE Master technician. I'd trust him with anything. Mike

It is very possible that the wires were the cure for the runability symptom, but the light will remain on due to other factors like emissions or crank signal errors. You really need to pull the codes to find out if you have some residual problem from the rough running. If you pull the codes an PM them to me, I will call a Master Tech friend who works at Hyundai to try and get you taken care of. Mike

Damn Vila, up to 5 posts now!!! graemlins/fruit.gif You should hit 50 by 2007, and then you can challenge for "the list" redface.gif

Ok, I'll jump in and burst Blackbird's bubble.(I'm such a hater ) 226 rwhp, 219 tq (back when bone stock ) 2850lbs est Dyno results courtesy of Brian back in July Mike [ 27 November 2002, 03:01 PM: Message edited by: Rotarded ]

Just a random thought, but have you made sure your head bolt holes are free of any water/oil before you torqued the head bolts?? If there is any liquid in them it wont matter what torque you set them too, you will not compress the gasket. Also, are your reusing the head bolts?? Are they torque to yeild?? If they are, you should not reuse them as they will stretch. Are they the correct length?? Good Luck! Mike

What he said! tongue.gif Mike

Check with Jason at advancedimports.com. I believe he has those couplers in stock locally (Hilliard). 771-8942 Mike