Ackbar00
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Posts posted by Ackbar00
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Nah, its manual 4 wheel drum
That's the rub, would never put rear disc on and leave front drum.
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Yep, T5. Other than needing a bit more fluid and it grinding a gear here and there, it was been working well.
The debate now is WHAT to do with the rear end.
1. Do I build the 8"? Will it support the power? I don't plan on dragging the car often, maybe a time or two a year. I don't even plan on sticky tires, but you never know.
Looks like that can be done fairly reasonable, would just need axles, which are not easy to find:
2. Do I put a 9" in it? Seems very overkill for my setup. I have been looking on Craigslist and what not. The big issue is finding one that will bolt in without having to have it modified. That seems to be when you start spending the cash. Not to mention, Id prolly still have to gear swap it.
3. 8.8 retrofit. Seems like a fox rear is a good candidate, but Id still have same issues as the 9", plus Id have to modify it for leaf springs. Other 8.8 like the explorer bolt in and have 3.73 gears, but they are disc. Now I am talking about changing the brakes and that is mo money.
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Well, last post of the year on the Stang. Really have not done much but to try and drive it some. But running pretty well, I did find several things going with it:
1. Shifter almost came off. lol. All 4 bolts were backed up. Think i know why it was leaking trans fluid. Had to cut the shifter hole bigger to get access. Still need to regasket it...
2. All the wheel bearings sounds like they are shot.
3. doors/windows - This is something I might farm out. Would be nice if the windows would roll up correctly.
Other than that, i did make it out to Kil Kare last night. And in typical fashion, they did not disappoint. Only got two passes in.
Best was a 14.02@103.47 2.42 60 ft. lol. Other was a 14.24.
Really has a bad one wheel peel, and spun 2nd pretty bad. Needs a gear as well, never shifted to 4th. Oh, and manual drums are a bit of an effort to stop. I think some gear, timing and fuel adjustments, I can get the trap up a bit.
All in all, was pretty happy it made the progress it did.
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I really want to do this same thing....
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Me Gusta!
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Does your carb use a vacuum secondary or a mechanical secondary?
the reason I ask is that those filter tops sometimes fuck with vacuum secondary carbs. I ran one years ago on my GTO and kept having a carb backfire that would jam shut the secondaries. Put the car on a friend's dyno and traced it back to that stupid filter top - carb worked perfectly every other filter or no filter, but as soon as I put that thing on - pop back fire and 2bbl till I could get home and unjam the secondaries.
Otherwise great work.
If you seats are 05, I wonder if you can get 08 bullitt seat covers for them since they were done in a 60's mustang style pattern?
mechanical - But that is good info to know.
Thats not a bad idea on the seats , Ill have to look into that
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Been a little while since my last update. First update is the best one
I converted the seats last year to a set from a 2004, mainly because I got a killer deal on the fronts. $40. Wasn’t super keen on the tan, but I found a rear seat in the junkyard for $37, and they were LIGHTYEARS ahead of what was in it. I thought it looked nice, but I have been keeping my eye out for something else since then…
Old Seats:
So on Stangbangerz, someone posted a 95 roller up for sale. Said it had some nicer black leather seats in them. Saw some pics and asked how much. $50 for the front and rear!! Cut me a hell of a deal. Rears are from an 04, but the front are from an 05 Mustang. They were a bit more tricky to fit the 69 rails, but with spacers and a drill anything is possible.
New Seats. SOOOOOOOO much better.
Funny part of the story. So the 2005 Mustang seats have the leaver on the back of them up high. I guess it’s a common problem for the plastic lever to break. These were. The fix, is to get them in metal. I got a set from UPR, $45 shipped, almost as much as I paid for the seats, lol.
Next, the Fuel pressure issue seemed to sort itself out s the gauge seems to be reading correctly, so that was nice.
So right after the seats got installed, I took the car to work for the first time. Drives like a champ on the highway! 80MPH is 2000 RPM, its awesome. On way home, I hit some back roads and lay into the car for the first time. By the time I hit 3rd gear, the clutch pedal feels all funny. Get it home quick and let it cool down. Come back and it is major stiff, so I work it a lot and it gets better. So I call modern Driveline. In short, he said it was heat. Told him about all the preventive steps I took and talks to me about heat transfer. Since the cable was sitting on the blanket, he was positive that was the issue. So how to fix.
He said any shorty header will work. Now the main reason I went with my Tri-Y’s was they were cheap and I had the slave cylinder setup from them. But if you remember, that didn’t work and they had me switch to the cable setup. They would not warranty. Kind of pissed me off, but I figured it was ONLY $135. I hit my Vitality goals at work and got a $200 Amazon gift card, so that bought me a set of Headman Shorties. Painted them up pretty good, had the exhaust redone and back in business.
Yeah, gonna cause shifting issues….
Old Tri-Y’s. And that turbo blanket I used was all shades of jacked.
Headman Shorty Headers
Sounds the same, and I doubt I really lost any power.
Quick Rev’s dyno was down, so my friend that has helped build engines over the years helped my street tune the carb and played with timing. Car is a whole new animal, feels really good. Only thing we really need to do is I need to change the springs in my dizzy to get the timing to advance earlier. It’s a bit sluggish below 3000 RPM. I want to change the fan because I think it’s a bit ugly, but the car runs so cool. Not sure if I will or not. I also got a Raptor shift light, but do not have that installed yet
Last piece, I noticed my hood scoop was actually functional. It just had some Styrofoam shoved in the opening. Pulled that all out and got an Edelbrock lid to match my airfilter. Looks good now
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I stopped at MKC
Lol
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I saw the story earlier this year (Or last), but it had a second part to it. Very cool!
https://www.foxnews.com/auto/ford-restores-mustang-cancer-treatment
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The best oil? The one that you change often. Have had several cars over 200k and all I really did was just keep up on the oil changes.
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Mines not a 427, but gesh. Does this seem a lot for a coupe? Even a nice one with a 427?
That mean mine is worth, say 18k?
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I wonder who will actually get one for sub 60k.....
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Ah, gotcha. When I put the Hydroboost in my 93, none of the hoses would work. I had to convert it all to the Powerflex.
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Can you link me to that one if its till available?
Sorry, been gone. It was gone.
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For all of my Power Steering and Hydro-boost needs, I always used this. Russell Powerflex Hose. Assembles good, no leaks route it however you want. I think it would be the best solution for you.
https://www.amazon.com/Russell-632610-Powerflex-Stainless-Steering/dp/B000CPCO5C
https://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russell-PowerFlex-Power-Steering-Hose-End-Fittings/3000597/10002/-1
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Ok. So here are the pics of the Magnaflow installed. The exhaust shop did a great job using existing hangers and not drilling a bunch of extra holes in the car. It REALLY made the car a lot quieter. (That’s a good thing). It does sound great and I’ll get of vid of here sometime in the future.
So the next issue. When I got home from the exhaust shop, I noticed my fuel pressure was bouncing around “0”. Thought that was a bit weird. One of the things I read, was the fuel lines could be clogged. They were the factory 69 ones, so I figured, why not. So I ordered the factory replacements. Right after I ordered that, I was like, why don’t I just order -6AN? The new fuel filter I ordered was a Russell and it had -6 ends. So I bought a cheap -6 kit from Amazon. I figure Ill send back whatever one don’t work. Lol.
So first up, the -6AN. Looks nice. The first fitting I try to put on it, it frayed worse than any other hose I have ever used. I mean, it was plain shit. So that went back to Amazon. Guess that means the replacement 3/8 gets the nod. It installed pretty good. Had to teak a few things to make it work with the Russell filter and even put some heat wrap where it cross over the tailpipe.
Start the car and take it for a drive. Feels fine, but when I get back, the Fuel Pressure is still around “0”. Like WTF? On the vintage forums, the swear up and down that these liquid filled gauges don’t work right when they get warm. I ran my inferred temp heat gun on it and its only around 140*. And I never remembered my turbo car’s 0-100 doing it. But hey, a new one not liquid filled was $12, ordered that. It came in, replaced, took for a good drive and what do you know, the FP was right at 6 psi after the drive. I’m still not 100% convinced that was it, so I will have to keep testing. Going to see about getting it to the dyno and do some tuning on it here soon. . It’s pretty gassy smelling and I only have 10* of timing in it.
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It has to be better than Godzilla.....
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Got a little vid of it running after I drove it out of the shop.
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Crap, I realize I never posted the shifter setup.
So I had lots of issues. First I bought a Lokar plate, it sucked. Next i bought the leather boot for the 69. it matched up with the bolts holes already in the trans tunnel. Well, that bastard would not sit over the shifter, it sat right on top of it. Its base would need to be clearanced and I was convinced it would tear the leather. I cut some holes in the carpet and ran some bolts through them trying to make that work.
The more I played with that, i realized I would be putting the bolts in blindly and nothing was securing the Lower shift boot. What to do....
After an obscene google search, i found these threaded inserts:
With these, I could thread into the existing holes, use a washer to hold the lower shift boot, and space it up, so that the leather boot would secure on top of the shifter. Winning!
Next, poke the inserts up through the carpet. No more blind man feeling his way around in an orgy.
Next up was the shifter handle and the knob. i tried to use the fox handle, and it was just to far forward to be comfortable. Especially in 1 and 3 gear. So I found this handle on EBay. Feels like a Nascar now lol. the knob, i was just going to get a black Hurst, but this grey one from Twisted Shifters caught my eye, so I went with it.
And done. Used some stainless washer and some hex bolts to finish it off. Still need to trim the tie strings a little, but it feels pretty good and turned out killer.
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Ok, first step was the water pump. Spent 60 seconds starring at it and said F it. Pulled it apart. On Fox Water pumps, there is a metal plate with a gasket to the pump body. I think that gasket was leaking. So I cleaned it all off and used plenty of Permatex instead. Gave it a good 24 hour cure and no more leaks. Still, was disheartening to spend that many more hours on something.
I had to adjust the clutch cable some more. Its way to long winded to talk abour what I did. Lets just say this kit is not all its cracked up to be and maintenance on it is a chore. Guess time will tell on it....
Next, I hated the Mustang script badges on the side. So I replaced them with black 2015 5.0 emblems. I was able to cover 2 of the 3 holes. IF I ever have the car painted or body worked, Ill have them filled in.
Was able to drive it out of the shop to the front under its own power.
And I wrapped up everything under the hood (its back on as well).
It went on its maiden drive yesterday to have its exhaust put on and should be done sometime this week. It seemed to drive pretty good considering how deafening it was.
The 69 Mustang - It better run this year....
in Passing Lane
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