zeitgeist57

Does anyone know of a company that makes a C5 Corvette hub adapter to put an aftermarket steering wheel on a Z06? Thanks!

Thanks, everyone!

 

Dave (Gas,grass,and waaaaay too long of a name) is gonna help me a little with the 4.3L after Xmas. Mike is right: I AM looking to keep my 3speed (or swap in another manual transmission if necessary). Vince is also right: the truck has a [rusty] two-piece driveshaft with a [rusty] carrier bearing connecting the two halves just about two feet back from the cab on the frame.

 

I'd like to stay carb'ed...the less complex the better! If this bish can't start in the winter, then phuck it...I'll drive the Passat or Maxima smile.gif If a 350 won't bolt up to my 3-speed, OR I need a new flywheel, then I need to take a long, hard look at cost and difficulty of installation with hand tools. EVERYONE: If you're going yarding, I'm always interested in what you find. Blackstang's dad has a pretty good 350 on an engine stand in his garage that I might take if a 4.3L rebuild will cost anywhere near $400.

Originally posted by GAS,GRASS,OR,ASS:

1st make sure the piston is all the way to the top of the cylinder you can check by putting a smallish srewdriver in the plug hole and rotating the motor untill the screwdriver no longer rises.

 

2nd if you don't have a fairly large compressor it may not be able to pump enough air to hold the valves up if it still won't use the rope trick I can come by and help you one night this week if you want, scince I need to stop by anyway lemme know

Dave, ya gotz PM'ed! smile.gif

Ever since I bought my truck, the engine barely runs at startup. When it gets warm, it runs much better, but bogs and hesitiates really badly when I push on the gas.

 

Well, I thought (hoped) that it was just bad valve seals, but tonight I connected my air-compressor to the #1 cylinder on the 4.3L through the spark-plug hole, and all I get was hissing in the engine block For that cylinder, I removed both rockers so the valves SHOULD be fully seated, but I couldn't even compress the spring to remove the valve retainers; there just wasn't enough cylinder pressure to hold up the valves.

 

The odometer has 67k on it, but it was a Ohio Highway truck and it looked to have led a HARD life...should I now assume that the engine has 167 or 267k miles on it and it's now time for a rebuild/new motor? I ran compression checks before (probably incorrectly) and got 130-140 after 2 or 3 engine revolutions.

Hoist or stand?

 

The hoist is the real issue...I could just leave crap on the floor of my garage smile.gif

This winter, I'm looking to pull my front clip, cab and bed off of the frame of my truck to change the engine (maybe transmission?) and sand/spray my frame.

 

Does anyone have an engine hoist I could use for a few weekends at my place in UA? I am also looking at purchasing an engine and could really use an engine stand until the transplant.

Me too! Plus, I just ran 220V out to my garage in preparation for a lift and air compressor...please put me on the list! smile.gif

Originally posted by nurkvinny:

Damn, you still haven't done this since the last time you posted this question?

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=001065

 

My 2-month short term memory retention OWNZ MEE! smile.gif

 

REpost... graemlins/gives.gif ??? Same problem, different month

Originally posted by Nitrousbird:

Ahhh, let me guess, she smokes every time you start her.

Oh man...leaks cylinder pressure and oil like CRAZY until it warms up. Even then, there is some serious blowby the valve seals when the engine is warm.

 

Thanks a ton for the pointers! Still...anybody wanna help me?

Help! smile.gif

 

Can someone tell me any specific tools needed to install new valve seals on my truck's 4.3L V6? Specifically, to hold the valve in the head (and NOT let it drop into the cylinder!) and to remove retainers.

 

Thanks! P.S...if anyone wants to help me, PM me...I'm hoping to do this this weekend.

I'd help! smile.gif

 

This DOES seem like an odd setup, but if Craig on maxima.org gets it to work... graemlins/thumb.gif

*I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY PROPERTY/PHYSICAL DAMAGE FOR THE FOLLOWING SUGGESTION*....

 

Heat up the Control arm with a torch for a couple of minutes and then press the balljoint in while it's still hot.

Alright...new compression check and spark plug inspection:

 

After 500 miles, all the spark plugs are in PREFECT condition visibly, with the exception of the fact that they are BLACK. Not wet black, and not with little particules and globs on the electrodes...just signs of a RICH condition.

 

All cylinders between 140-150psi. No more, no less. Most are btw 145-150.

 

I tuned the truck by hand (grabbed the distributor and turned till I heard pinging one way, turned till I heard pinging the otherway, and then tried to find a sweet spot and I was AMAZED at the difference. Still bogs when I slam it in third gear, but much better.

 

Dave? Still think it's a vacuum leak? smile.gif I think the carb setup you gave me would be great if I had 2 extra cylinders, brah!

No...but I can almost SWEAR there are no other vacuum leaks.

 

Now when it's running, a little puff of blue comes out...I am convinced the valve seals are shot.

VERY difficult to start, and smokes BLACK smoke like crazy until it warms up. Then, it runs very rich (smell it) but no black soot from ass pipe.

 

Thanks for the rope reminder...I remember that trick from Auto Shop in high school smile.gif

 

If I found a carb'ed 4.3L or 5.7L, I'd try to put it in and break apart the original motor, but I don't have that luxury right now.

Great info...thanks guys! I may take you up on someones' help...especially since I have no air compressor!

My '86 Chebby sat for 7yrs, and despite decent compression numbers across all 6 cylinders in the 4.3L, it has what seems to be terrible blow-by ONLY when the breathers are covered up on the valve covers.

 

People I have talked to almost universally claim that the valve guides are probably all shot to shit...how tough are they to replace? What special tools do I need? Do I need to remove the valve springs? PLEASE HELP!

Berto's got stripped bolt removers that have brought me to tears of joy when I've used them. They're thuper-fantastic.

 

I'm not saying Berto would let YOU borrow them, but investing in a set would be a good idea right about now. smile.gif

 

I'm trying to take apart the column shifter assembly on the firewall in the engine bay, and I'm not getting any luck pulling the steering shaft to remove the collar around the assembly (it has to come down and out off of the linkage assembly).

 

Question...all of the linkages flow REALLY nicely in the engine bay...could my shifter be sticking in gear as a result of something on the column in the inside of the cab? Am I trying to repair the WRONG part of the shifter assembly?

I'll definitely be doing that. It's pretty good when free, but one wrong turn of the shifter and it's stuck in 1st again. I was motoring around today with it...I'll break it down and grease it this weekend.

Gaddamn...I was driving my truck up and down the driveway just because I'm afraid to get the shifter stuck again. The transmission is free, the linkages to the steering column are free, everything should work!

 

But...for some damn reason...

 

Between where the linkages join the steering column in the engine bay and my shifter in the cab, it keeps getting stuck in 1st gear. I can't figure it out. Once it's stuck, I have to turn off the engine (since it's stuck in gear it won't idle in neutral smile.gif ) open the hood and gently wiggle the linkages to free the shifter, and then I can go back into the cab and shift once or twice again before it gets stuck again.

 

SOMEONE HELP ME....AGAIN!!! smile.gif

 

P.s...really, this is a good truck. I'm just working out the kinks after so many years of not being used.

Thanks to Berto for helping me with my new brake lines today. Unfortunately, now I have new brake lines, fresh fluid, and have bled the front disc brakes on my C10 but the REAR DRUMS WON'T BLEED!

 

I've totally taken out the bleeder valves and pumped like a mofo, but no fluid or air is spitting out. Am I missing something here?

I paid $34 for two Nissan belts...it's OK. For $10 more I'll take having belts that I won't have to worry about for another 40k miles.

 

Some guys on the Maxima forum claim that the belt only needs changing every 60k miles, but I didn't want to take the chance. I DID find out I have 80k mile coolant...another thing I won;t have to worry about smile.gif

 

Thanks! I'll get Gatorbacks for the Passat (ifm they make em) and for my pickup.

That DIY page works if you have a newer Ford truck with a rear glass window that fits on the truck using bolts. Mine is a little different.

 

Carb works like a charm, Dave. Thanks!!! smile.gif

After finally getting my truck running and idling on it's own (Thanx Dave! smile.gif ) I took a good overall assessment of the truck's condition. Not bad material for a good looking (not show winning) street truck/errand hauler. The only problem I see is the opening in the back of the cab for the rear window; underneath the rubber gasket surrounding the glass, there are several spots of rust, with a couple of corresponding spots on the interior.

 

1) Can this be fixed?

 

2) If so...HOW DO YOU REMOVE THE GLASS to fix the rust problem/paint/reinstall new rubber gasket?

 

Thanks! smile.gif