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zeitgeist57

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Posts posted by zeitgeist57

  1. Thanks for all of the help, guys. On Saturday, we hauled 800lbs of paver base (3430lbs...truck, him, me, gravel) from Langstone in German Village to his house on Whittier near Parsons. The truck handled it no problemo, provided that we never went over 30mph. That's PREDOMINANTLY what he does...lotta heavy bed loads over very short COlumbus distances. The only real hinderance was that we were ALL DAY riding on the axle. The stock springs and old shocks were terrible.

     

    I'll look into convincing him for some Superhelper springs and a few performance upgrades. Thanks again, guys! smile.gif

  2. Hey!

     

    My buddy has a '94 S-10 (4cyl/5sp/2WD) that he wants a little more payload capability for hauling around town. No towing, notta lotta highway action.

     

    What can be done to increase bed payload capacity to 1/2 ton? Are springs and shocks enough, or does the frame need to be boxed/strengthened as well?

     

    Thanks! smile.gif

  3. I've got Yokohama AVS ES100's on my 18s (15s for winter). The tread is really aggressive, but I'm almost positive it isn't M+S rated...I don't see ANY sipes on the treadblocks at all :(

     

    They are probably the best tires I've driven on in the rain. Yesterday I didn't feel compromised at all by the weather on these tires. Discount Tire will deal too if you talk to the right guys. I got 235/40-18 for $105 each.

  4. Originally posted by Renner:

    </font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BlackBird:

    just use a thin oil with a low frying temp. The first time you apply the brakes, it'll vaporize right off.

    Anyone hear familiar with the Porsches brake cooling system? It sprays water on the brakes under heavy peddlin'. Doesn't seem to hurt anything tongue.gif

    Close, but not quite. ;)

     

    The ones used on Porsche's actually spray water mist into the cooling duct leading to the brakes, just like water/alcohol injection for your engine. It just cools the air before it gets to the rotor, since water evaporation is an endothermic process. Spraying cold water directly onto a hot rotor would definitely cause it to crack.

     

    The cars that I have seen use it were mid to late 80's 930 turbos that were making huge power, before bigger and better brake upgrades were available, especially since they had to fit them under the wheels, which weren't available in 18" sizes with the proper offsets for a street car at those times.</font>

    http://www.hepcnet.net/bbssmilies/teach.gif

     

    Preach on, preacha!!! :D

  5. Originally posted by BlackBird:

    its a friends rally beater. What can be done to them that's cheap/easy? He found a 6spd AWD transmission for one on Ebay, any idea on swapability?

    Are you talking about the tranny from the 80s Civic 4WD wagon? It really wasn't a 6-speed. It was the standard ratio 5-speed with a super-low gear to maximize what little engine torque that 1.5L 4cyl put out to all four wheels in the event the wagon was hauling people and schtuff lightly off-road.

     

    Great engineering, but the low gear would be utterly USELESS for racing. Better for "crawling" off-road. (I know that sounds silly for a HOnduH!!! tongue.gif )

  6. If you try to fill the cylinders with compressed air to prevent the valves from falling into them, listen for whistling/hissing/bubbling or any other sound that a non-running internal combustion engine SHOULDN'T be making when it's not running smile.gif If it makes noise, it could be major blow-by from worn piston rings.
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