zeitgeist57

Two part qweshtion here:

 

1) It seems to me that the FM and AM radio reception on my Sony CD headunit (in my Maxima) is getting worse and worse by the minute. I was driving on I-90 in CLeveland Friday night, and I kept hitting "scan" but no radio station had a strong enough signal for me to pick up. While driving down 315, I can't get 99.7 OR 97.9. Is this a function of the head unit, my integrated antenna (wire in the rear window)?

 

2)With that, how can I measure the signal strength of an aftermarket radio?

 

Thanks! I know that most aftermarket radios have VERY shitty radio reception. I just want to get a signal when driving outside of 270! smile.gif

Dave, you rock my world smile.gif FYI...4.3L is 292, but that's OK 'cuz the Dynomax claim to fit the 230-292ci engines, and that DEFINITELY sounds like it would fit my engine.

Dave did a great job showing me all of the unnecessary emissions crap I could rip off of my c/k pickup. smile.gif

 

Now...I'm looking for headers for the 4.3L (262ci) GM V6. There are plenty of cheap offerings for 88-93 S-10s...would any of those fit my pre-88 fullsize truck? I couldn't see why not, seeing as how I probably have more room and eventually I'll be going with a cheap custom dual exhaust from the headers back anyways.

 

At any rate, I've searched for 4.3L headers for a pre-88 GM fullsize pickup, but have been unlucky. Please let me know what my options are. Thanks!

BBJ coming through in the clutch. Thanks, man!

 

Hey Dave, isn't A.J. still at Buckeye Nissan? I'll just go there seeing as how I'll need the silicone-free Nissan coolant for a flush-n-fill of my coolant system anyway.

I'm about to replace the belts for my Max (40k miles) and Passat (33k miles) for the first time. What belts do people recommend, and where can I get them?

 

Thanks!

Unfortunately, one of the hard brake lines broke yesterday, so I couldn't get it on the road even if I wanted to. Plus, this high rev is a little scary.

 

I'll PM ya, Dave! smile.gif

OK...I'll definitely plug up all open lines.

I've got vacuum lines spread out like spaghetti. It's another carb from a different vehicle.

Thanks to Brian and Tinman for their tranny help...it seems that 7 years will just manke a tranny stick in gear a little bit

 

Next up...the engine starts RIGHT up with no pumping, and running on a half tank of 7 year old gas, but it idles WAY to high. It doesn't have a tach but my guess is it's running at about 3000-3500rpms. At this point, it's also blowing a lot of blue smoke, but that may be from the ATM fluid I dumped down the sparkplug holes a few weeks ago to get the engine rotating ...that I'm still not sure about.

 

I've backed the idle adjustment screw out all the way, and the throttle linkage won't back off anymore. However, the 4bbl Rochester carb still won't stop revving. Can someone help me here? Is there an internal control screw or other metering device I'm missing here?

Guys, I disconnected the linkage and found the TRANSMISSION was stuck in gear. After grabbing the link to the tranny and wiggling it a bit, sure enough the transmission broke loose and it started engaging gears smile.gif

 

Please note the new post on my ongoing problems with my truck...

 

...AND THANKS FOR YOUR HELP

Someone told me that it might be the linkages...I'll disconnect the steering linkages from the tranny rods and see if the tranny shifts that way...actually, with that in mind doesn't HURST make an old-school floor-mount shifter conversion for cheap?

 

EDIT: Sorry...just to confirm YES, it's a manual with "3 on the tree" (column shifter)

My truck is running, but it's stuck in gear (Reverse). The transmission is also totally covered in a thick, peanut-butter-consistency stuff that MIGHT have been a leak 7 years ago (last time it ran).

 

I am listing the GM codes below, so that SOMEONE might be able to tell me what type of tranny it has (or anything else about the truck I might need to know when getting parts). Can someone help me learn more about this truck?

 

D44 - Painted Below Eyeline Mirrors

F51 - Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers

J50 - Power Brakes

LB1 - VORTEC 4.3 Liter V6 Gas (155HP/230FT.LB)

N41 - Power Steering

XFL - P235/75R15 ALS S/B/ Radial Tires

ZFL - P235/75R15 ALS S/B/ Radial Tires

VSS1 - Saddle Tan Vinyl Bench

E63 - Fleetside Pickup Box

GU2 - Rear Axle-2.73 Ratio

K81 - Cold Climate Package (Including Special Insulation, 66 Amp Alternator, Special Heater & Defroster, Engine Block Heater, HD Battery.)

MM3 - Three Speed Manual

U37 - Cigarette Lighter

YES - P235/75R15 TBLS 00 (Wha??????)

Z53 - Gauge Package (Including Voltmeter, Engine Coolant Temp, 66 Amp Alternator)

4001AA - Special Paint

 

Any help from Chevy/GMC truck guys would be helpful! Thanks!

I didn't get around to working on the truck this evening, cuz I was doing the front brakes on a Sportage.

 

If I can't get the manual to shift out of Rev., then I'll look for another manual or make the automatic conversion. I just feel that an auto would turn this V6 truck into a DOG.

UPDATE: OK, The engine turns over, but the tranny is stuck in Reverse and I need a Rochester carb. The junkyard still OwnZ my ass, but thanks for the info!!!

I just bought an '86 Chevy C10 2WD 1/2 ton. It's been sitting under a tree for the past 7 years, and so far a buddy and me can't get the engine to turn over with a breaker bar. THe tranny is stuck in gear also. Dunno if it'll break free.

 

I'm LOOKING into just swappng the 4.3L (w/ Rochester 4bbl) with a 350, and I'm hoping to maybe get one with a manual transmission also. Currently my truck sports a 4spd manual (3spd with an O/D) with a column shifter, but I can get one of those floor shifter kits depending on the engine/tranny combo.

 

Does anyone know of a good junker setup (carbureated/manny tranny) setup that would work for this simple, fullsize pickup for less than $500? This is going to be a non-emissions-caring, not-much-to-look-at errands truck for a suburban white male with a mortgage and plans for an upcoming kit car. At BEST I'll Bondo what little rust it's got and paint it a color other than the Highway Department Yellow it's got now, but only AFTER I get it running! smile.gif Thanks!

If you want wrap, I've got Thermo-Tec in my garage. About 40ft of it unused. I'll sell it to ya cheap. You can buy a spray-on chemical that you moisten the wrap with after you put it on the header and it helps it wrap around the metal better, won't allow water to get in too easily.

 

For a car being used around the year, header wrap can be a problem for trapping water.

I'm a big fan of Vettes, and the C3 (despite what others will tell you about it being the dark days of the Corvette's lifetime) was a great bodystyle. The 350 would REALLY wake up with some exhaust mods, a header being my first choice. Next, I'd do a full-on exhaust system with as little restriction as possible. Even a stint where the exhaust was flowing through a single pipe would be fine provided the bends are relatively smooth and there aren't any cats in the way smile.gif

 

Also on my list in this order: Intake (either K&N Filter on the cheap or 650cfm carb/Victor Jr. intake setup for a few more bucks), Ignition upgrade (better coil, distributor, wires and plugs), and lastly a shift kit for the automatic (unless it's a four-speed smile.gifsmile.gifsmile.gif )

The Max has 37k miles on lowered springs and stock shox so I'm DEFINITELY getting new shox soon. There is a group buy on a Maxima forum for KYB GR-2's for $260 shipped (all four).

 

Are these good shocks? Anyone have a recommendation? For the price I can't see it getting much better than that.

My aftermarket stereo does NOT pick up a very good FM signal using my Maxima's rear-window-integrated antenna, yet I CANNOT FIND ANYBODY that sells an FM signal amplifier.

 

Radioshack got out of the car stereo bidness last year, Circuit City doesn't carry it, someone said Meijers or Wal*Mart, any help here?

Actually, I opted to leave the battery be where Nissan decided to put it. Might move it when the turbo gets installed

A friend of mine has a terrible rattle problem after we installed a sub in his Accord. Where can we get CHEAP Dynamat-like stuff?

 

[ 25. May 2003, 11:59 PM: Message edited by: zeitgeist57 ]

My friend has a new 12" sub in his Accord, but he's using an old Rockford Fosgate amp and the bass sounds like it keeps cutting out. Any help here?

 

[ 26. May 2003, 12:01 AM: Message edited by: zeitgeist57 ]

What are the effects of nitrous on an OBD-II governed engine? Will modest nitrous use foul up the O2 sensors at all?

Cornering, thanks! If I were SERIOUSLY interested in launching, I wouldn't be sporting 18" chromies!!!

 

I'll still look into it, though now I an thinking about mounting the amp under the passengers seat and routing the power line fron the engine bay to a hole drilled under the seat and sealed with silicone. We'll see...

Can anyone give me some guidelines for mounting my battery in the trunk of my Maxima? I'm putting a sub and amp in the trunk, and the prospect of running wires through my firewall is less appealing than running 0AWG cable under the length of my car smile.gif

 

1) Any pre-made kits?

2) Special parts needed? I'm assuming I can essentially splice power cable from the pos(+) lead to the batt in the trunk, and ground the existing ground(-) cable somewhere in the engine bay, with the battery grounded to the body in the trunk.

3) Do I HAVE to get a sealed (read: expensive$$$ smile.gif ) battery like an Optima so I don't get a hydrogen bomb effect in my trunk when I start the car?

 

Thanks!