Dave1647545494

get it hot tanked

wtf please tell me thats photochopped

I may have the lower part for a 4bbl I'll have to look and see if the sensor is still in it

try a 40 of your favorite malt liquor and a blunt repeat process untill you pass out

you can have it towed up to ntb if you want labor rate is kinda high, but it shouldn't be a tough fix

think about it and let me know

contact tinman or ips for welding

first use a light or meter and verify power is not getting to the fan check the fuse and the relay if they are both good replace the radiator fan switch fan operation can also be tested by turning on the A/C

bump

ihi from chevy 6.5 will also retrofit 6.2 no shaft play comes complete with manifolds crossover pipe and whatever else I have for it $150.00 obo

needs new bearings complete minus drums and brake cables 100.00 may entertain trades for fox mustang stuff or a keg of miller lite

top

sure they did cuase thats when I bought mine proform I think 49.99

advertised compression with my head volume 60cc the block is currently an untouched low mile low compression truck block ps I will not have my car at work for a couple days ( left the window down and the damn seat got all soaked)

hmmmm you got a powerstroke layin around I'll try it

heres a good color diagram your problem can be cuased by, bad or no power to the eec relay, bad computer, bad ignition switch hope this helps

you have no power to the fuel pump either? did you check for power at the eec relay (next to the computer) might also try swapping out the computer for known good one http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

aluminum cylinder head with a good quench area N/A 351w efi stock timing middle of the road street cam (under .600 lift under 300 deg of duration) 11.5:1 going to be too much for 94 octane I ran that compression( or higher ) on my iron head buicks, but with much bigger cams. never caused me any trouble so it seems doable,but fords are not buicks and I'm not sure thanks

I didn't say it was hard book time is under 4 hours I just don't have all the dial indiacators and pinion depth tools

if you havn't sold it yet I'd take the caddy and a little cash or other mustang parts for my turbo car....

it takes a special set of tools to install gears even I pay other p[eople to do mine and I work on cars 60 hours a week

1st thing move out worry about the other shit later

used or new? carb, tbi, or tuneport what motor is in the car now?

look on your mitchell at work there should be a specific clearance between the starter teeth and the ring gear that you can check with a feeler gauge add or remove shims untill its in spec and you should stop breaking bolts

beater turbo mustang should be....... but I havn't had time to sort it out and run it maybe fall norwalk if its not sold....