Drewhop

http://www.cnn.com/2010/CRIME/03/29/michigan.arrests/?hpt=T1 This is a fascinating read. Discuss

Stay safe. Cant wait to see pics of your current toys.

Other side of the fence. How does the company know that there truck is the one that caused the chip in the window.

This looks entertaining

In on page 1

I bought this car a couple months ago for VERY cheap. Have done a few things to fix it up. I keep having problems with keeping the check engine light off. I am getting two codes P0130 02 Sensor fault bank1 sensor 1 I know what this is and it is a easy fix. It only comes on every once in a while I have just been to lazy to replace it. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0130 The other code is a p0325 Knock sensor malfunction I am trying to find a cheap source for this one. Will both of these cause the engine to run in a limp mode. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0325 The car runs perfectly fine when the lights are off. The 02 light comes on and it still runs ok. But when the knock sensor malfunction light comes on it acts like someone stuck 1000lbs of crap in it. Just loses all power.

Wrong. We need more people that are this smart but actually want to help.

I will also be getting my dads boat running in the next few weeks. I am also going Northern Pike fishing this weekend hope I bring home some nice pictures.

Pics of your setup ftw.

Common Sense is not needed in here. I have said it before.

I just wanted to take a minute and refresh peoples memory Socialism http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/socialism (read #3) Democracy http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/democracy Capitilism http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/capitalism

This thread is better.

+1

Taken from http://www.glockfaq.com What do I look for when buying a used Glock? Another GREAT article contributed by [JT]. Buying A Used Glock Unlike many other firearms, I don't worry too much about buying a used Glock. Heck, I've even bought used parts at various times, from different sources and later pieced together a complete pistol as good as new. Many used Glocks appear to have been shot very little and don't even have holster wear. Even the ones that are known to have been holstered hundreds of times and have sent thousands of rounds downrange are usually none for the worse. I recently bought a used upper from a state police trade-in. It was perfectly functional but had some holster wear on the usual places. So I had it refinished -- for vanity reasons only (Mark Graham at Arizona Response Systems (http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com) did a fine job of it -- looks better than new). Anything else, I can take care of myself. Here are some tips when buying a used Glock: * With the owner's permission, make sure the pistol is unloaded and then field strip the pistol. First, remove the magazine and MAKE SURE the pistol doesn't have a round chambered. Point the unloaded pistol in a safe direction and pull the trigger. Next field strip the pistol. If you don't know how to field strip a Glock pistol, read this: http://www.topglock.com/info/fieldstrip.htm * Check the frame "dust cover" (the part forward of the trigger guard). Flex it a little up, down, left, right carefully looking for small cracks. There have been some complaints about small cracks on the G29 and G30 models running from the serial number plate to the end of the dust cover (although some of these seem to be misidentified mould marks). Cracks generally don't interfere with functioning, but should be replaced. A replaced slide or frame would not have a matching serial number. This may weigh heavily on whether or not you are willing to purchase this pistol, regardless of price. * Inspect the frame internal parts (trigger assembly, connector, locking block, etc.). Some early pistols need to be upgraded -- the metal internal components of which typically have a black finish as opposed to the current silver finish. Look under the slide at the bottom of the firing pin lug and firing pin safety; look at the trigger bar inside the frame. If these parts are black in color, the pistol needs an upgrade kit. If the parts are dull or shiny silver, it should be fine. Another way to tell if the pistol was made before the update is that the frame serial number plate will be black as opposed to silver, which is the current configuration. If you buy a pistol that needs upgrading, you can take it to a Glock armorer or send it to the Glock Warranty Department where they will perform all the necessary upgrades at no charge. See the following links for upgrade info: http://communities.prodigy.net/sportsrec/gz-gupgrade.html http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade1.html http://www.geocities.com/helenron.geo/upgrade2.html * Inspect the slide. Look for any obvious problems. Guide to parts: http://www.topglock.com/info/partgraphic.htm * Look at the ejection port of the slide and check for cracks, especially in the area around the serial number (the thinnest part of the ejection port). Check the breech face for cracks, chips or scarring. * Look at the extractor. Ensure that it is not cracked or have a chip broken off. Same for the ejector. * Turn the slide over and look at the bottom. There may be two divots opposite each other on the slide rails (especially on the .40 models) -- located about even with the forward edge of the ejection port. This is called "peening" or "finning" (as Glock terms it). The locking block contacts the underside of the slide during recoil and the polymer frame flexes, causing the divoting. While unsettling, this is completely normal and eventually stops. If these peened spots are just shiny -- no problem. If the pistol has been fired a lot then they maybe indented slightly -- again no problem. If they are finned over and have a sharp edge, possibly interfering with movement of the barrel, then a Glock armorer may need to file off the fins with a diamond equaling file. However, I have never heard of a Glock with finning so bad that the slide had to be replaced. Unless it's interfering with the functioning of the pistol, don't worry about it -- Glock considers it SOP. * Check to make sure that the recoil spring receptacle or "tab" on the front of the slide (the hole that the recoil spring guide goes through when you cycle the slide) is in direct line with the rest of the front of the slide. If it is bent back, then someone probably dropped it nose-first on a hard surface. This can cause malfunctions. * Inspect the barrel for any anomalies. Check for a "ringed" barrel -- that is where a "squib" load has lodged a bullet in the barrel and then another non-squib bullet is fired behind the obstruction causing a "ring" inside the barrel. Hold the barrel up to the light and check the rifling -- should be a smooth, six-sided helix (eight-sided profile for .45 models) from the chamber all the way to the muzzle, without interruption. If the pistol hasn't been fired much, you may see some Tenifer (the metal treatment used by Glock) that has become brittled inside the barrel. This looks like pitting, but will completely disappear in time and is nothing to worry about. Glock considers this normal when it occurs. * Also check the recoil spring. Ensure that the pistol is unloaded. Pull the trigger and hold it back. Point the muzzle at the ceiling, pull the slide to the rear and slowly ride it forward. The spring should close the slide completely. If it hangs up out of battery, the spring may need to be replaced. Also look at the rear of the recoil spring guide for cracks or chips. Personally, if the slide or frame is cracked, I'd pass on a pistol unless I can get a steal. Then you can have Glock replace the cracked part -- usually for nothing if there is no evidence of abuse. Everything else is easy and cheap to fix, but gives you room to negotiate the price with the seller. I haven't seen too many used Glocks that I wouldn't make some kind of offer for -- because they go on and on and on ... [pink bunny, stage left]. Taken from another forum.

I just want to know what they mean. I cant understand all the bullshit that spews from there mouth. For example taken from the .gov http://www.whitehouse.gov/administration/eop/cea/Health-Care-Reform-and-Small-Businesses http://www.whitehouse.gov/assets/documents/CEA-smallbusiness-july24.pdf Just to add some real life numbers. Last month are small business. We have 6 employees. Total of about 10-12 people on insurance. Last month we received our bill for insurance. We were informed our rates would be going up roughly 17%. Out of the 12 of us in the past 5 years only one thing has been done and it was my boss having a heart stint put in. We looked at all of our previous health care increase and it has went up 15% and 14% in the past 3 years. Now reading the above reports they are looking to reduce health care insurance by up to 1.5% per year........ Fuck the government someone needs to turn the lights out on this entire fucking continent.

Cold blooded. +rep

I am tired of all the common sense on this forum. I will not tolerate it anymore.

Fixed

That is pretty badass. What are the odds that BMW has already contacted him.

If I dont receive my mask I am going to get 37 other people and boycott you.

I wasnt being sarcastic. I really believe that something major needs to happen.

*Employers are required to disclose the value of health benefits on employees' W-2 tax forms.* Not cool. That is half the reason I work for a lower salary. REVOLUTION!!!111!!!!!1

Send me some pics. I will show the boss and see what he says. He already has a 55 Chevy Cameo that he is restoring but he may be interested.

Dont come in here with your common sense.

SHTF EVERYONE TO THERE BUNKERS.....