excell

Hua: It says "Part# 45003-AK001" v.082102

 

Make sense?

Help! We're trying to set up an HKS EVC (Electronic Valve Controller) and the instructions are horrible! Please help me set this thing up:

 

Mode A:

 

15psi boost (100kPa)

16.5psi Warning level (110kPa)

 

Mode B:

 

20psi boost (136 kPa)

22psi Warning level (150 Kpa)

 

We've spent an hour on this thing already and cannot figure out the correct way to program it. I actually think the instructions were translated wrong.

 

Please HELP!

Originally posted by Ex7r3m3r:

One question...why post this in the picture section? just curious...

Good point... MOVED TO TECH. tongue.gif

Originally posted by Master Yota:

Given the size of the inlet and outlet, my guess would be a 60-1. Which, being the biggest of the current T04E line, would put the output in the 450-500fwhp range at high boost with tuning.

You are the mack daddy.

 

If I can find out more I'll post it. smile.gif

A lot of that I do not know... everything I know about these two turbo's is in here. I'll dig the guy and see if I can find out more...

 

What motor? Let's just say a 3.8l 231ci 3800 Series II.

 

Here are the pics of the T04E he is using:

 

http://www.lynoise.com/images/Dyno/020503/Turbo1.jpg

http://www.lynoise.com/images/Dyno/020503/Turbo2.jpg

http://www.lynoise.com/images/Dyno/020503/Turbo3.jpg

http://www.lynoise.com/images/Dyno/020503/Turbo4.jpg

http://www.lynoise.com/images/Dyno/020503/Turbo5.jpg

Originally posted by controler:

T04E has several different compressors... please specify.

 

T64 is bigger than the biggest T04E.

 

Compressor maps

Whoops, sorry.

 

T04E .71AR... does that sound right? smile.gif

 

Where you turbo guys at!

I'm dumb when it comes to the diffrent models and brands of turbo's out there. Help me.

 

Turbo #1: T04E

 

Turbo #2: T64

 

What we lookin at here?

 

Thanks. smile.gif

A juicy tid-bit I found:

 

Early model injected Hondas; 90-95 Prelude and Accord; 89-91 JDM B16A Hondas all ran external resistor packs with low impedance injectors.

 

Mark: Your car is equipped with one of these packs, is that right? Do you have a spare? Could I come and examine it one night while your car is still down?

You guys rock! I'm getting closer...

Originally posted by Stallion Motorsports:

Chris,

First off I have no idea about the Honda computer deal. I'm not trying to be a smart-ass but, how does your car run with 42lb. injectors? Any detonation, or pinging, or any signs of going lean. I am just wondering if you could get away with 42's and your stock computer? 42's are good for a bunch of horsepower. Maybe that would save some money and time. Or maybe I am completly wrong about this whole idea. Also I think Accel makes 44lb. and maybe even 48lb. as well.

Tom

Tom:

 

The GTP comes with 36.5lb injectors stock. The next "step" and most popular injector upgrade is a Lucas 009 42.5lb followed by the Delphi PTE50 50lb injector. This is where the problem lies. I will be switching to the Lucas 009 42.5lb's next week. I will probably never need the 50lbs. But this is not for my car. This is for another car that will need WAY in excess of 50lb injectors and I got this lead and want to know as much as I can about it. smile.gif

 

This is way new territory that if true, will blow the 3800 world right open.

Ok guys, this is gonna kinda be a little hairy but please try to stick with me!

 

The story starts out like this:

 

In the GTP, specifically in our PCM's, we cannot run over 50lb high impedance injectors. There is simply no way to program the PCM for anything higher. The next solution would be to go with low impedance injectors. With these we could go higher than 50lb. The catch is no one has a fucking clue how, except one person. I happened to get him to leak me some info tonight but not enough that I can do anything with it. Here is where you Honda guru's come in...

 

Here is what he said, parens are added by me to help you understand better:

 

----

 

(the use of low impedance injectors on a GTP)"it requires the use of some Honda parts used in some of their earlier 90's cars"

 

"Honda for some reason wanted to keep their ECU's kinda the same between the different cars, but for some reason they used low ohm injectors in certain cars"

 

"to fix this they put a little silver box in that goes between the ECU and injectors"

 

(for the GTP)"you need 2 though"

 

----

 

What in the hell is he talking about? Do you guys know ANYTHING about this?

 

Please help!

Originally posted by E101:

Hopefully I'll be using this info on Friday, In Norwalk smile.gif

WOW! Back from before I had ever been down a track before! Those were the days... smile.gif

With a 3.4 I ran NGK TR55's gapped at .055 with MUCH success. I loved those plugs. GREAT plugs.

 

I now run all Autolites.

 

Autolite 104's for a 3.25, 103's for a 3.0, and 102's for a 2.8. smile.gif

 

DO NOT get platinum plugs. I wouldn't buy AC-delco plugs either, they are complete junk. My car ran like shit with them. No Bosch either, they do NOT make a cold enough plug for even a stock application despite what their book says. There have been MANY tests on them.

 

How many times I gotta tell you? www.clubgp.com/forum and you will get all the answers you need! tongue.gif

Originally posted by EVILGTP98:

I got a tranny cooler from GP store and its in my trunk as we speak, and i am definatly putting it on mine, likes or dislikes, sorry chris, lol. and im ordering the new nose and pully as we speak. Big Grin smile.gif

It is your car and you can do whatever you like. I won't cast stones. I was just saying what I wouldn't do. Have fun, you'll love the pulley.

Originally posted by Josh Miller:

I have one for a LT1... I don't know if it's the same or not... I broke some of the screws though, so you'll have to pick up the screws that you need for it at any local parts store.... PM me and we'll work somthing out. I don't normally go to Hooters... but I might be able to make an exception... How long will you need the puller for?

Nope, not a 3800 puller. Use it of you want to ruin the bearings and replace the $350 snout.

Originally posted by Nevarmore:

so will you loan me the puller or not?

I mean I'm the only one that has acually done a swap. I don't have a puller, sorry man.

No, it is NOT limited slip. The closest thing we have is an almost limited slip diff made by INTENSE.

 

www.INTENSE-Racing.com

 

Do you even listen to me when I recommend things for you to look at? GO TO THAT SITE AND READ DAVE! tongue.gif

Originally posted by Zorak/nevarmore:

Thanks for the tips and the links, we won't dink around with the trans cooler then, and my brother isnt the type to smoke the tires intentionally.

 

The specific puller is what im looking for, i know there are a few guys that have done puilley swaps for the supercharged 3800 on here, i was hoping someone local would have the approved puller for us to borrow so we didnt have to pay to rent/buy one.

Hmmm I'm pretty sure I'm the only one. smile.gif

Huh? Is this going on a Grand Prix?

 

If so:

 

1. You will have to rent a pulley puller. DO NOT use a standard pulley puller. You MUST use a 3800 approved pulley puller or you will completely fuck the bearings in the supercharger snout and the snouts aren't cheap. I recommend http://www.zzperformance.com to rent a puller from. They are VERY nice and will have it to you in a day or two. Not to mention cheaper than anywhere else. tongue.gif

 

2. A Trans cooler is not nessecary and I do NOT reccomend them. Heat does not kill the 4T65E, one wheel burnouts do. If he stays away from one wheel burnouts he should be just fine. The 4T65E is designed to run at 200-210 degrees and anything much less the trans will start to be a bigger parasite than it already is. Somewhere to the tune of 25 extra WHP. I am near 300 FWHP and near 350 FWTQ and I do not run a cooler. My trans does not get warmer than operating temperature even with 3.69 gears and a higher stall.

 

Visit www.INTENSE-racing.com for some more fun parts.

You would be surprised how lean you can run a SUpercharged 3800 without it going *POP*. Even heavily modded.

 

After I got my cam, when I killed my fuel pump I was seeing O2's of .500-.600v at WOT. Good non-piston popping O2's should be .890-.910v. I ran the car wide open throttle with O2's dangerously lean for quite a few extended bursts. Why? Because I didn't know what was happening. I thought my S/C belt was slipping causing the surges in power-loss. But in reality it was my fuel pump not being able to keep up. I only found out later this was happening when I stopped and checked O2 logs.

 

This was not on a stock 6-7lbs of boost either. I was running around 11 pounds of boost, or a 3.0" pulley.

 

Our motors catch a lot of shit for being weak due to our Hyperutectic pistons always losing a chip under lean conditions. However this was not the case. I had my motor dangerously lean far longer than it should have with far too much boost and yet it did not blow. To add to it my motor has 111k miles too.

 

What relevance it has to the discussion? Not sure, just tossing ideas out there. smile.gif

Originally posted by NOTA4ME:

cool I'll call ya when the pulley comes in

Originally posted by CammedBlowDryer:

...and select a ZZP <font color="red">3.4</font> press-on pulley.

 

tongue.gif

 

Be very VERY careful if you are going to make one Dave, you can REALLY screw up the blower snout and they are not cheap. ($350 rebuilt)

No, go to www.zzperformance.com and select a ZZP 3.4 press-on pulley.

 

http://www.zzperformance.com/zzp/products/prod_supercharger_pulley.htm

 

FYI you WILL need a 3800 approved pulley puller tool to remove and replace the pulley. A regular pulley puller WILL NOT work and will damage the bearings in the supercharger snout. ZZP rents them and unfortunetly I do not have one. I have a keyed-style system that allows me to swap pullies with the removal of a few screws so I only had to press on a hub. (see sig )

 

P.s. for more hardcore parts see www.INTENSE-Racing.com . That is Scott (Bonneville guy's) website that I am webmaster for. smile.gif

Do you have to do a crank position learn for your computer?

 

In my car if you change computers or sensors you HAVE to re-learn the computer to the sensor.

Originally posted by gaf_faulk:

Thanks all for the information especially from cammedblowdryer!! Why didnt I think of that sooner!

No problem at all! That's what I'm here for.