Jeffrey

Well SUV would be a more appropriate term. It's a 1999 GMC Yukon Denali, and it is fully loaded. We really weren't looking to buy anything just looking, but when we came across this at the price it was we didn't really wanna pass it up. Here are some pics http://www.cofba.org/users/beast350/Yukon/

Marc nobody wants to see a 14 sec Cark run! graemlins/finger.gif j/k man good luck, but you still stand no chance against the Buick!!

+1 on the socket and vise, some of the u-joints we replace at work say to do that right in the instructions, really easy too!

A buddy of mine ran at a 1/8 mile track one night the very next night ran at a 1/4 mile. Its a 91 Eagle Talon AWD and it ran a 7.98 at the 1/8 and without changing anything ran a 12.1 the very next day, but different setups and such will provide a different outcome.

So that chick you pissed on had restrictive parents you could say?

fill them with brake fluid when you throw them at them, that'll teach them really quick not to fuck around!!!

The BX barbershop... oh wait never mind.

kid sounds like a retard, wonder how long it will take him to wreck it?

I am partial to this one, anyone that has ever served can relate to this song Toby Keith- American Soldier I'm just trying to be a father, Raise a daughter and a son, Be a lover to their mother, Everything to everyone. Up and at 'em bright and early, I'm all in my business suit, Yeah, I'm dressed for success from my head down to my boots, I don't do it for money, there's still bills that I can't pay, I don't do it for the glory, I just do it anyway, Providing for our future's my responsibility Yeah I'm real good under pressure, being all that I can be, And I can't call in sick on Mondays when the weekends been too strong, I just work straight through the holidays, And sometimes all night long. You can bet that I stand ready when the wolf growls at the door, Hey, I'm solid, hey I'm steady, hey I'm true down to the core, And I will always do my duty, no matter what the price, I've counted up the cost, I know the sacrifice, Oh, and I don't want to die for you, But if dyin's asked of me, I'll bear that cross with an honor, 'Cause freedom don't come free. I'm an american soldier, an american, Beside my brothers and my sisters I will proudly take a stand, When liberty's in jeopardy I will always do what's right, I'm out here on the front lines, sleep in peace tonight. American soldier, I'm an American, An American, An American Soldier.

And the decrease in chances of Boost Creep is a notable benefit of the dumped wastegate.

its getting taken care of, but I wont get the car back till Monday at the lastest (yeah Ive heard that before ) stupid car! it only had to last another month before it got a nice long vacation but nooooo, SPOS!

Damn Talon.. anyway I was about to change out my rear brakes on the car and as i was getting ready to pull it into my buddy's garage I noticed a puddle of coolant forming on the driver side of the engine under the car. we look and it appears to be coming from where the water pump is and it was pouring outta there like it was its job. just a straight leak no dripping just a steady stream of coolant. Well since i have to replace this now where is a good place to do and, and since I am nearing 120k I am going to do the timing belt to. Anyone know of a trusted place besides a dealership to get this done? I need to get it fixed soon so a quick response would be appreciated.

Sounds like a tranny mount to me too. Go to Jegs and get a Poly one from energy about $20 or so well worth it in the long run.

I am running 13 psi and yeah even at this setting the clutch will slip occasionally, I figure as long as I keep the boost down and dont race much I can make the clutch last till I can afford to put in a new one

But Sam couldnt you attribute the motor blowing to timing belt and not turbing up the boost? Thats atleast what I thought happened

yeah almost any car can have it too, hell if I AWD launch my Talon the front tires wheel hop a bit before tha back ones catch and then is stops and the car goes. my friends Saturn has one of the worst cases of wheel hop I have ever seen, and its a SC1 SOHC saturn , he's busted 3 motor mounts because of it too. wheel hops is the Satan of cars, thats all there is to it!

you may feel it, but you'll hear it even more, (thump, thump, thump) it a number of things can cause it, lack of weight, alotta power, sticky tires, a bunch of things can cause it. Brian with the dyno would probably know more than me about, but it is a nasty thing for a car to have cuz like I said it will break alotta shit very fast as it is very hard on the drive wheels and supsension

it happens when you spin your tires and the tires "hop" because they are trying to get traction, not a god thing either, very easy way to break a axel, or something associated with the drive wheels

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Unlicensed Nuclear Accelerator: My header bolts were a full turn from tight. And tm car still runs on 2 cylinders, but that's becasue I don't have the wires yet smile.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Well than get off your ass and go to Jeg's like half a mile from your place, and get the wires! I would get some kinda high temp sleeves for them too, but I think you were talking about getting those anyway if I remember

its different in the fact that you will have a tough time keeping all the "boosted" air going through the throttle body you will have to devise some sort of sealed "cap" to get it to work right, like you would for a carbed car, which I suggest that you do, tbi's arent very good for performance especially the LO3 305 in your car. I would do a motor swap to either a carb or port fuel injection if you are serious about making that RS scream.

Mine would be the 350 TPI TT engine that I plan on building for my next IROC when I get it. I have the 350 block in my garage, and once I get some cash flow I am going to start on it. I really dont want to post the stuff I plan on using because it would take the entire night but I will try to see what I can do: 350 L98 block Ross 8.0:1 Custom Pistons Forged Rods (brand TBD) Steel Crank (brand TBD) TPIS Big Mouth TPI intake mani. ported SLP runners ported Stock Plenum Ported (may go with "Pizza box") TPIS 58mm Throttle Body ZZ-9 Camshaft Custom ground by TPIS for Twin Turbo setup Gale Banks Turbo Headers 2 Turbos TBD high volume oil pump 255lb/hr in tank fuel pump 1-2 in line fuel pumps activated by window switch Custom true Dual Exhuast Accel DFI with calmap software Thats basically what I am planning as you can see I have alot more figuring to do and some more though put into is, if anyone wants to offer suggestions and the like I will be appreciative.

Yeah its a funky looking can, you'll find it where you find WD-40, Liquid Wrench, and the like, very good stuff. Also if you have to cut the bolts make sure that they are studs and not screws, like we did, and if it comes to that a drill and Titanium bits will be you new best friend! (spoken from a bitch of an expeirience!

Aaron here is some advise: Dont Buy it!!! it could be a whole list of things wrong with it or it could be one thing. But do you wanna spend $300 on it to find out? Unless you have about $2k ready to go into that car then I would not go for it, ohh are you sure that it is a rod knock though? is it auto or manual, this is all of course info I would like to know if you do happen to buy it, cuz I may beable to give you some ideas on what it may be. also is it a Turbo I or a Turbo II engine, you will know it is a Turbo II if it has a intercooler.

Actually there is a newer Ranger running around with a 355 sbc in it. Yeah the hard top cars are alot more sturdy than the T-top cars so sturdy to the point that if you want to push some serious power through the chassis you wont really need subframes but they are a good Idea anyway because once age and most of the time "cancer" sets in you will wish you had them along time ago. For some reason my IROC was very, very sturdy and stiff to the point that we were jacking the car up on all fours with it resting on jack stands at all four corners the car actually started to lift up off of the other 3 jack stands! if you have a hard top 3rdgen then you wont need to worry about it as much but it is still a good Idea, t-top cars especially ones that have been bought used and were modified I would make that a top priority like a timing belt on a DSM is!!! you will thank your self later.

What you do with a 3rdgen is buy a 305 5 speed, then you look for a L98 (tuned port 350) and swap it in with a t-56 from a wrecked LT1 car. preferably a 93 cuz they had a little better ratios I believe. These cars respond to mods pretty well too. Ohh and the reason you would want to buy the 305 5 speed combo is that it makes swapping in a 6 speed really easy, and they are really cheap to buy, I am looking at one to buy right now for spring and with some work done to my 350 and searching the junkyards for a T-56 I will be ready to go. Also one word of caution to people that would like a 3rdgen is that if you get one with t-tops the very first thing that needs to be done is subframe conectors, if you plan on doing some major performance upgrades. even if you dont it still would be a good idea. If you want any more info on these cars I am pretty much a walking encyclopedia on them so just ask.