mjeosu27

Just click on the gas prices "ticker." It will tell you where the cheapest prices are.

Damn, I wish all women would read that. BUT WHY IN GODS NAME DID YOU FIND THAT? Please tell me your girl stumbled across it and found it interesting, and that you weren't just doing some research on how to swallow. Yes, I'm an graemlins/asshole.gif

Cam-2 (115 leaded) is $3.90/gal right now...4 gallons of that plus 12 of 92 octane should fill your tank for around $35, and would give you just about 100 octane. If you wanted to go a lil less octane, say around 96, use 3 gallons of 115 plus 13 of 92. Price is a little easier on the wallet at ~$31. Still kinda high. For 104 Octane, mixing it this way, you are looking at 8 gallons of 115 and 8 of 92. $45 per tank. D'oh! I'm guessing you have already looked at the chart on gnttype, and you've come up with around the same. Anyway, hope it helps some. Or, you could just win the lottery and run 116 all the time at $8+ per gallon, and 16 pounds of boost

A may be wrong, but you should be able to just use any automatic transmission fluid (atf.) Valvoline makes a good synthetic atf. You could go more expensive, like royal purple or redline, but it's not necessary. Just make sure you have the correct amount! graemlins/thumb.gif

Spray it, your warranty is still good. That way when you blow it up, free engine! Nothing else will really be worth it, if you are looking for power. Jackson Racing makes a supercharger for it, but for $5,000 it's not worth the 50hp you'll gain. graemlins/thumb.gif

Thanks again. Stupid Fords

Thats what I figured, but it also does it when I tap my regular brakes. Thought it would be weird that the G forces (as small as that might be ) would trip the sensor both directions. (Accel and Decel.) Oh well...I'll check that first I guess. Thanks Eric

Yes I mean the warning light. The actual brake doesnt come on. I guess I didnt realize there was a seperate resevoir for the parking brake, or would it be integrated into another system?

...or when I hit the brakes. It has progressively gotten worse in the past two months. It used to just flash briefly if I power-shifted a gear, now it comes on for an extended period of time when I accelerate in any gear- or decelerate. It also seems to do it to a bigger extent when it is cold out. What's the deal? Is it fluid related? How do I fix this, or is it not a major problem? Thanks in advance, Mike

Hey guys thanks for the replys, I got it all figured out. Appreciated!!!

I'll put them on for $60.

Just bought a new subwoofer and amplifier. Sub is a 10" Punch HE 4 ohm and the amp is a Sony Xplod 2-Channel 480W max. Everything seems to be installed correctly, the amp powers on, the subwoofer plays, but is barely noticeable. As soon as I turn up the level on the amp, it freaks out and the subwoofer beats repeatedly very loud, until I turn it back down. Any ideas? Catch me on instant messenger, mjeosu27 or call the cell 271-2731. Thanks in advance, Mike

Damn those are some great rates. Thanks for the heads up graemlins/thumb.gif

He's good, but I don't think he can polish shit.

graemlins/asshole.gif

You forgot one thing there, BC. tongue.gif

Couldnt have said it better myself. You're gonna want a Tremec 3550 TKO and definitly the c-clip elim setup. Last thing you want to do is launch an axle out the side of the car and fold the wheel up into the fender. Also, 9psi may be a little much... you won't see enough of a power gain (as apposed to 6psi) to warrant the large extra amount of added stress to the motor. Rob? EDIT: oh and 11's are easily possible like Jason said. If you go with trick flow heads/intake you'll knock down high 11's on motor, low/mid 11's with the blower and a GOOD (have Rob and Don Lasota do it) tune. The block will be fine. Just ask Brian Turner or Brian Rigsby. Hell I think Rigs still has the stock hypereucraptic pistons and the car as gone 10's making nearly 500hp. Turner's car traps 130+ and I am almost positive it's a stock block. It's all about the tune.

You think NOS is fucked up- remember when we dyno'd my car Brian? I had the jet in for what Compucar claimed to be a 40 shot, and I picked up 80rwhp and 120rwtq. Then put in the jet for what Compucar claimed to be a 55 shot, and I picked up 120rwhp and 180rwtq. graemlins/eek2.gif

Hey Eddie, you're right, it's Mike. I am glad you enjoyed the ride. Nothing like banging gears and having the radar detector come unplugged- reseting itself and going through the test mode, making you think its a cop. Sorry the bottle pressure wasn't up. I need a bottle heater bad. As it was when you rode with me, the car prolly would have run 14.30's or so. Anyway, I would start off with a dry kit. They are good to learn on and get acquainted to nitrous on. You can always upgrade to a wet one later. Research your car and figure out how strong the internals are. Get a step colder sparkplugs, run 93-94 octane, back down the timing a little (if possible) and start at a very small shot. Get it dyno'd if you can, with wideband 02 readings. All you have to do is find that happy place between being satisfied, and not melting all your shit. Oh and make sure you get a 3.4L badge for the back. Gotta represent the V6! Good luck, let me know if I can help at all!

You have PM

Not sure about porting, but if you'd like I give you a hand with the install. It's a piece of cake. You'll need to pick up the lower and upper intake manifold gaskets, some high-temp RTV sealant (liquid gasket,) and some razor blades to scrape off any remaining old gasket material. Instant message me if you'd like a hand. (mjeosu27) Rob (rl) and Fowler...and probably a bunch others on here could give you a hand/directions as well. Let me know. Mike

Check these guys out, in the Speed Shop section. Not sure if this is what you are looking for or not, but hope it helps:)

If you want power and don't want to go with a blower/spray right now, you can go two ways. 1. Basic bolt'ons. Throttle Body, Mass Air Meter, Injectors. Biggest thing I would do is a 3.73 gear... that would wake the car up big time. With all the basic bolton's, I don't think you'd see much more than 240-50 rwhp. That might be generous. 2. If you are more serious, do heads/cam. Trickflow twisted wedge heads, trickflow upper/lower intake, E-cam. Or you could do Ford parts...GT40X Alum. heads, Cobra Upper/lower intake. The possibilities/combos are endless. Check out an issue of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords. With number 2, depending on heads/intake/cam, you could be looking at 280-340? rwhp. After that, you could go with powerdyne/paxton blower and be looking at 450+ hp, again, depending on heads/cam and amount of boost. Course, I could completely wrong on those numbers...hopefully RL will chime in with his 302 experience. Good luck with the change in markets

Holbick that shit happened to Craigs car all the time on the old motor. It would drop to like 500 rpms, then surge to 1,000...over and over again. No big deal, just annoying. Sorry I don't know what caused it. 5.0L's are notorious for it though.

Sigman auto service, Dave is the shit. That is all.