recklessOP

pull the ABS fuse, it's listed in the owner's manual... i run my car like that at the strip, to make sure i don't forget to disable the TC with all the starting and stopping in the staging lanes...

my mustang runs with it unplugged. seems to idle fine, but it hesitates pretty bad tipping in the throttle, and runs rich as hell through the rev range. definitely trips the check engine light too. strange...

hmmmm... sounds like they may last more than a month with my driving... what kind of mileage you get out of them? i'm looking for something i can abuse regularly and still not worry TOO much about wearing down quickly. for any sort of drag racing, i'll simply bolt a set of drag radials on the back anyways... graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

hit em harder... tongue.gif

what he said... tongue.gif if you don't recalibrate the mass air meter for the bigger injectors, it's going to run rich at WOT... at part throttle, i'm assuming the ECU would go into closed loop and compensate somewhat for the bigger injectors... a correctly calibrated mass air meter or a piggy back fuel computer would do the trick...

in all honesty, i think the mustang setup is cheaper and possibly stronger. as guys start to swap the IRS with a solid axle to drag race, a lot of these rear setups should start popping up for sale... getting parts for the corvette setup would probably be more difficult as these differentials were never really that popular. the 8.8 (i'm assuming the parts are interchangable between the IRS and solid axle 8.8, so check on that first) ford, on the other hand, has lots of aftermarket support, gear sets, and differential choices. with the popularity of the 2003 cobra, even more parts should be on the way... the C5 setup is completely different from the earlier corvettes. if i remember correctly, the transmission is actually housed in the rear differential/transaxle case in the rear of the car. plunging half shafts and a double wishbone setup are used to locate the rear wheels, as opposed to the earlier multi link setup with its solid halfshafts and trailing arms. as far as i know, prices for parts on the C5 setup, like shocks/springs and gear sets, are extremely expensive... the mustang setup uses a seperate (tubular if i remember) subframe which is bolted into the rear of the car using the original solid axle suspension's mounting points, and also uses the plunging halfshafts and double wishbones. the cobra setup has been around for a while, and finding parts for it isn't difficult or terribly expenive. 2000 cobra R and 2003 cobra parts can be used to strengthen the earlier 99-02 setups, and you'll find similar parts in the 90's tbird/cougar/mark8 (MN12 chassis) cars...

not sure on cost, but a word of warning on the corvette diffs. on the 4th gen corvette rear suspension, the half shaft is actually used as the upper control arm, so it's a solid unit and doesn't change lengths like the "plunging" half shafts used on most other cars. i'm not sure how the rear suspension is set up on an FC, but chances are, you'll need different half shafts...

i assume you're talking about 4th gen (5th gen cars used transaxles, and 3rd gen diffs are nothing special) corvette rear diffs, so here's a piece of advice. they used 2 different rear ends in these cars... the Dana 36 diff was installed in automatic tranny cars, and has a ~8 inch ring gear. the case is also aluminum, and i don't think they'd live too long between hard launches and sticky tires... the Dana 44 diff was installed in manual transmission cars, and has a 9+ inch ring gear. this is the same differential installed in the viper, and it should hold up under quite a bit of abuse. it too has an aluminum case, and would probably be somewhat expensive... as far as the mustang IRS diffs go, in all honestly, considering the power you want, i'd look for a 2003 cobra rear end setup. they have 31 spline half shafts and stronger internals than the earlier models. this would prolly be your best bet... good luck...

:puts on flame suit: FORD > CHEVY tongue.gifgraemlins/fruit.gif

the backwards cooling system on the LT1 was pretty cool if you ask me... as far as the problems with the stock internals on the LS1, i usually don't consider that in a high output application, since they tend to get replaced with stronger aftermarket pieces anyways... as far as using the LT1 because it's cheaper, i couldn't agree with you more. saving money is almost always important. hopefully as the LS1 finds it way into more and more cars and trucks, the price will come down... i don't think the LT1 is a bad engine by any means. i almost bought an LT1 car a while back. just given the choice between the LS1 and LT1, i'd recommend the LS1 as long as money wasn't THAT much of an issue... i still like the ford modular better though... tongue.gif

the LT1 was an bandaid attempt at fixing some of the shortcomings of the original 1st gen SBC. they made revisions to the cooling system, ignition, and several other things, but the general architecture of the original SBC engine remained... then the engineers at GM realized the LT1 or another revision of that engine design would never meet their performance and emissions goals, so they wiped the slate clean and started from scratch with the LS1, designing a more efficient engine with the 40 or so years of experience they had with the original small block... the end result is an engine with a stronger block, uncompromised cylinder head ports, much better sealing, and an improved ignition and cooling system. it also makes more power... tongue.gif i'm not saying the engine doesn't have its quirks, but it's still a better engine that the LT1... with regards to nitrousbird's comment on a weaker bolt pattern, i haven't heard that but i do have a few things to add on that topic. if i remember correctly, the head bolts on the LS1 thread deep into the engine's main webs, clamping the head down better than earlier engines, and they don't go into the water jackets like the earlier engines, eliminating any chance of a leak. also, the LS1 uses a square shaped four bolt pattern around the cylinder. earlier engines used a star shaped five bolt pattern. maybe it's just a rumor, but from what i've read, the new pattern is to allow 4 valve cylinder heads on the engine...

the LS1 is far and above a better engine. the LT1 is based on the original SBC, and considering what some of the specialized parts for it cost, i'd just get a 1st gen SBC if money is the biggest issue... even though the block is aluminum, i'd say the block itself is stronger. you've got 6 bolt (crosbolted if i remember correctly) mains, deep skirted main caps, and better cylinder head sealing, which is critical for boosting. the cylinder heads themselves are superb, and the port design is not compromised by the valvetrain layout like the earlier engines. the only problem really with LS1 engines are cost... another idea would be to use a ford modular... tongue.gif

two bottles, the big ones... tongue.gif

yes, i was considering an RB swap into a 240SX... i'm looking for an engine that will hold an extreme ammount of power. not looking to do anything crazy just yet, simply laying the groundwork for a fast car down the road... i also want something unique... smile.gif

that helps a lot... here's a few more questions for you guys. how much do these cars typically weigh, and what's the weight bias front/rear? how low can you get the weight down? how much would a used 6 speed cost to swap into an earlier car if i went that route? i'll do the work myself, it's the cost of parts that concerns me... if i consider this car for a project, it will be one of the earlier ones. the later cars are simply too expensive to justify tearing apart as a project... thanks again... smile.gif

been looking around on that board today. lots of good stuff, just a lot of posts to look through... tongue.gif

looking for some general information on nissan RB series engines. specifications, strength, what will swap between the various engines, and other useful info... more specifically, i'm looking for information on the RB20DET. my main concern here is the strength of the engine, how much rpm it can take, and how much horsepower the stock internals are good for... any ideas where to find parts and service information would be helpful as well... any information on the trannies that came behind these engines would be VERY useful as well. i'm mainly concerned with the strength of the gearbox that came behind the RB20DET. once again, info on parts and service would be very useful... these engines don't appear to be too hard to find, and priced competitively with an SR20DET. i'm considering an engine swap with another car as my next project... thanks in advance...

driving through mansfield is a pain. 35 mph for a 4 lane road? the cops are hiding EVERYWHERE!

been looking to pick up an older car to use as my project, and recently i've been looking at a couple of 1st gen stealths. in light of the recent weather conditions, AWD is starting to look more and more attractive on a fast street car... tongue.gif could you guys direct to me to some web sites with more detailed information on these cars. anything i should look out for when looking at these cars? thanks in advance...

BAH! tongue.gif 270 is a big race track. think of it as a really big circle track... i agree though, cops a plenty. i'm on 270 daily, and i always see at least a few cruisers...

the idea here is to sell the car BEFORE it breaks completely...

putting one of those in the camaro, mark? you and your inline sixes... tongue.gif

if you've never done anything like this before, i'm sure people from the board would be happy to help you out...

i have other plans... starts with a T and ends with URBOCHARGING... still working out the details, but everything back to where the cat back bolts up will be prolly be custom...

how much is a used T56? i plan to be conservative on the gearing, as this is not going to be a drag car, and without slicks i'll prolly just end up blowing away the tires with a turbo setup... i like the T56, but cost is my main concern...