recklessOP

why would you want the compression ratio any lower than that? that should be perfectly fine for any street turbo setup...

if you're looking for 400+ RWHP, be sure to budget for new pistons and rods as well. the stock 4.6 internals are weak. a custom tuned chip would also be a good idea... we could be more helpful if you gave us more info... tongue.gif

the GR2s are a bit mushy. like others have said, they're basically stock replacements. if your lowering springs are somewhat stiff, i'd look into something else...

i'd just try jegs. they're local, have tons of parts, and the prices are usually pretty good.

couple things to bolt down, nothing much. assuming you have everything (endlinks, bushings, hardware, etc.) to mount it. make sure you get all the extra parts to hook up the bar. if not, you can usually find them pretty cheap at a parts store... if it includes everything, and shipping isn't horrible, i'd say go for it. it'll add some roll resistance to the suspension, and prolly take out some understeer...

maybe he fried the wiring harness..? did he check out the electrical system before he starting replacing parts..? i threw a ton of parts (including a few electric fuel pumps) at my old corvette just to find out it was the wiring that was causing problems...

get two bottles, the big ones... tongue.gif seriously though, properly employed, nitrous is a cheap and effective way to add a fair amount of power to your engine. i'd suggest a little reading/research first though. a little reading now will save you a ton of headaches down the road... i wouldn't expect miracles with nitrous, unless you're willing to spend A LOT of money on both a high end nitrous system and a built engine...

i see cops on I70 all the time. sounds like they really are cracking down...

i'm tempted to run a walbro 255 at first. anyone have any luck with these in a returnless system, or know of anyone that has..? what size are the 03 cobra injectors anyways? i'm looking at a pair of 42 pounders right now... after a little number crunching, looks like we're looking at about 370 RWHP at 10 psi. i can't wait... [ 15. May 2003, 02:24 AM: Message edited by: No Boost For You ]

you're gonna have to move more than the battery to make a noticeable difference in handling or traction... tongue.gif if it makes things easier to wire up, i'd say go for it. it's cheap and easy to do, and gets some stuff out of an already crowded engine bay... graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

if i'm not mistaken, the voltage to the fuel pump is varied by the ECU to produce the proper flow and pressure... it's an emissions control feature if i remember correctly...

maybe i should explain my plan... starting out with a pair of "stock" mark IV supra turbos, roughly equivalent to your average junkyard T3 units. the car they came off was pushing about 400 RWHP in street trim if i remember correctly, and i've seen comparable twin T3 setups pushed farther on other mustangs. boost will be kept down to limit power to less than 400... from what i've read, the shortblock should endure that amount of power for at least a while. 450 or so HP seems to be the magic number when the stock GT shortblock explodes. hell, steeda will sell you a 400 HP boosted GT complete with a warranty... tongue.gif i've made some arrangements to get a new shortblock together (if i decide to get crazy with the power) in the next year or so, and with modified turbos and more fuel upgrades, i can start cranking up the power. right now i just want to get the turbos plumbed in and the car running properly with some boost... any less extreme ideas as far as the ECU? a stand alone might be in the cards eventually, but right now i want to keep my budget in check... smile.gif

did he do this with a stock computer? and how did the ECU react to the change? if my car will run fine switched over to a return style system, i may go that route. it'll save some headaches when i get serious with the power... smile.gif

i've got a 2002 mustang GT with the (variable voltage?) returnless style fuel system... looking to do some upgrades to the fuel system for a forced induction (twin turbo) project. nothing crazy yet, at most ~400 RWHP (stock shortblock) for now. what should i do? new injectors (stock are 19 lb/hr) are a given. my main concern is the fuel pump... i've heard of durability problems when trying to install aftermarket in-tank fuel pumps. worth going to a return style system, and how involved would that be? do i need computer revisions to do it? also looking at steeda's twin in-tank pumps, and an 03 cobra fuel pump. reliability is the main concern, with bang for the buck a close second. any thoughts? prices..? thanks in advance... smile.gif EDIT: are the steeda and 03 cobra pump setups the same thing? looking at an 03 cobra setup, and i see 2 pumps...

mustangracing.com has a good deal on a cobra brake upgrade for GTs. think it's around 300 bucks for the calipers, hoses, rotors, and brackets, and they're the newer (better) style 99+ up parts i think...

interesting... i'm tempted to try out the ABC piece... you planning on doing this soon?

here's the roush stage 2 add on piece... http://www.roushperf.com/mustangstage2/mustangstage2_r07_c03.jpg

maybe look into the roush front ends. those look pretty aggressive, and i don't think they sit as low. saleen covers look mean as hell on our cars, but they're very expensive. the roush piece just bolts to your original front bumper and it's like 200 bucks...

they only put them on 2000 cobra R models... if i remember correcly, they built 300... tongue.gif and VERY few of them are even driven...

i'd bet cervinis parts are as good as OEM ford parts... find out anything about ABC yet..?

do it! i haven't heard of too many people running them into curbs, but i have heard of people stepping on the lower lip as they walk around the front of the car...

isn't 5.0 magazine's 3G project car on it's 3rd or 4th cover..?

400 bucks for a few hundred pounds of downforce on the front of the car, and zero front end lift over 100 mph... sounds useful to me. it's fully functional... tongue.gif

i was looking at the ABC piece as well to fix my damaged front bumper cover. haven't heard too much about them though, which worries me, as body panel quality can be hit or miss from some companies... as far as the cervinis piece, i've heard nothing but rave reviews about their parts. you're prolly safe going with their cover. they have reviews on some of their mustang parts over on stangnet.com if you're interested... if you find out anything on the ABC piece, let me know, i'm interested in the conversion too...

run a solid axle. for one, they tend to be cheaper. a "properly" modified solid axle car should also out handle about any factory IRS car, and hold a good amount of power. good solid axle suspensions also have an advantage in putting down power and launching compared to IRS setups. on smooth roads the solid axle should actually be at an advantage, but then again, we live in ohio... do a fox mustang. parts are cheap and they're easy to fix. you can also get the base models pretty light. not to mention, your engine should drop right in with the correct engine cradle... graemlins/bubbrubb.gif