T Rex

Lots of cool stuff in this issue. Im not to familar with the "Hot Rodding" mags but this issue was pretty well written and had some GREAT information. I picked it up because of the title article "World's Best V-8s." They have v8s ranging from the ever popular small block chevy, 5.0 to the BAD ASS Mercedes AMG 5.5l SC engine and the Bently 6.75l v8. Another interesting tid-bit in this mag. is the ZL1 Camaro. GMMG (not sure what it stands for ) tuned Camaro putting out around 600hp and 575lb ft. Reading some of the "Letters to the editor" etc it seems a lot of people don't like the way HOT ROD is marketing their mag. I guess they are incorporating a lot of sport compact stuff into the magazine. The old muscle car guys REALLY don't like that at all. In my personal opinon "Hot Rodding" really isnt adding an air intake and some cheesy wing. I do however think that ANY car can be "Hot Rodded." I guess its more of an image thing to the old guys that don't want to be associated with the "Ricers." I apologize for my lack of grammitical skill that most on the board posses and definatly apologize for my lack of spelling (I went to WV public schools most of my life). I do however have one more question for you... Back in the day what was "Hot Rodding?" In today's lingo it might as well be called "ricing" your car. Id like to hear your opinons.

RL whats the number up to M&M? Buckeye, Esslinger parts are VERY nice, but Im looking to build this engine. Someday I will own one of their aluminum heads. I will be using a T5 transmission so a c4 conversion wont be needed.

Ive heard those weep holes go bad sometimes as well .

Welp, gotta send the block out to get bored and have the crank knife edged. I know I shouldn't ask but I haven't done much research on how expensive it is to get the crank done, anybody have a clue? Ive heard M and M does a good job but Ive also heard that they are expensive. Thanks in Advance.

Now the key is to find a Pinto in decent shape ...

Why not an xr? I havent done much research but stock they weigh around 2900lbs. Which isnt bad, thats FULLY loaded as well, remove all that bs and Im sure you can get it down to around 2500. IE leather seats, rear seats, Im sure there is a lot of noise padding as well. If Im correct the xr has IRS? I like that idea, im not going for a balls out 1/4 car, I would like to run low 13's but Im looking for a VERY streetable car, since thats where I drive it the most. Moving to a foxbody, Im a little shaky about that. I want something diffrent, granted diffrent comes with a price whether that be time or money, I think im willing to sacrifice (our love). I found a good deal on an 84 Foxbody, but its carb'd, Going from carb'd to EFI is a pain in the ass, however I will be doing a completle swap of the fuel system anyway. IE: fuel lines, injectors, fuel rail etc. My two favorite choices right now are the xr or a Pinto, the XR all I have to do is go pick it up. The Pinto I have to dig for, but I think a Pinto would be worth it.

My first idea was to put it into a 1st Gen Rx-7. I dont believe a shad tree mechanic, with the skills (lack of skills I should say), can pull this off the way that I invision. I think I have a deal lined up for an xr4ti, which would be A LOT easier to swap this into. As far as switching to MAF, are you talking about the LA3 computer with the large vain meter? That is generally the only conversion done to the computer, besides a stand alone SDS. Thanks for the advice keep it coming! tongue.gif

that knows about fuel tuning. Somewhere in the next year or so , I will be putting on a Kirban adjustable fuel regulator after a 255lph fuel pump. Ive heard the BEST way to tune your fuel is on a dyno with a wideband. A lot of people say that you need to get a pressure reading BEFORE you take out your old pressure regulator. Seeing as I am trying to build this car, almost from the ground up, I probably wont have the old regulator in there. Is this a bad idea? I will probably be using the stock 36# injectors, I think that should be enough fuel delivery. Any thoughts are appreciated. Edit: For those who havent heard me blabber on about this, it is a 2.3l Turbo Ford engine.

Im not an expert so please don't take what I say to heart. Hopefully someone will chim in and correct anything and everything I say . Question first: They cause a rich condition in some or all? I know when I first installed my intake I didnt reset the ECU causing the car to run a bit rich. ie: take the positive end off the battery let is sit for about 30 minutes while hitting the brakes a few times, letting ALL the power out of the ECU. (you know what im talking about). I dont know how a 90 degree bend would cause a car to run rich though . IMO you wouldnt want that sharp of an angle in your intake anyway. Hope that helps at all .

http://home.columbus.rr.com/tonyrex/wheel.JPG Hooks up to a drill. Let me know if you need any other info, should be able to pick it up at any paint shop, not sure if a hardware store would have it or not. Edit: I used this one to remove all the side molding from the Protege, it took my less than 45 minutes to get ALL the adhesive off! Ask anybody that has every removed side molding how long it took them by hand .

I need a place that can bore a 4cyl block .030. Can somebody recommend any place around here? How much does this generally cost anyway? Oh... Material is cast iron.

Need some help, I just bought this place and before I start putting a bunch of stupid crap in the garage I want to get a nice epoxy coat on the floor. Anybody know a good website or a place to go to do some research or know how to do this anyway? I know you need to etch(sp) the surface of the concrete before you even start, Im just wondering what a good product is etc. Thanks for the info!

my bad, I think I said that wrong. I am keeping both o2 sensors. Im getting rid of the secondary cat. and keeping the primary. I was told that if I kept the primary cat. and made sure that the 2nd o2 sensor was behind that it would be okay.

Ive done some research on the car and placement with the o2 sensors. I *looks* like If I keep 2nd o2 sensor after the primary cat and get ride of the secondary I should be fine. Anybody have any other thoughts?

Like I said in the Garage Sale section, I want to get a custom exhaust done and gut the cat. Im pretty sure this will trigger a CEL. From what I've heard there is a way to trick the O2 sensor into thinking everything is okay, something about closed loop. The ECU is pretty standard OBD-II . Anyway, any suggestions?

http://www.extrudehone.com/automotiveaftr.html If I am correct they did work on the Contour SVT (v6 24v duratech? engine). I was thinking about getting that done to my cylinder heads, intake manifold, turbo manifold and finally (once I get all this money that I dont have) custom stainless steel exhaust. I was just wondering if anybody has heard anything about them. The extent of my knowledge comes from reading about the Contour SVT. Anyway, any help is awesome! thanks.

I saw that, unforatuntly I dont have the money for steelies and a good set of snow tires . Looks like these bad boys will have to get me through the winter

Anybody heard of them? Any good? pros? cons? etc etc etc Specifically the HTRZ II (205/50 16) [ 02. January 2003, 01:45 AM: Message edited by: trexpro5 ]

I thought that if a cop didnt have, at least, his parking lights on that was entrapment?