Mensan

Originally posted by Ricochet:

It might be a close one. I beat a Lincoln with my stock engine and I only had i/h/e like you.

Run ya with my Lincoln.

I took mine off after they had been modified (welded), and the area that wasn't coated was far worse than the area that was. I have a little rust as well, but not as much as youre talking about. Who coated them?

We threw a new filter in, and it seemed to run OK, but I haven't talked to Veritas since then.

Dude, did you check your connections like I said last night?

Is it always stuck in the same position? Is it pegged hiot when you start the car, even though it is 30 degrees outside? If so, then you win a broken gauge. If the needle moves, ever, then most likely you have another problem. My guess is thermostat or pressure cap. Gauges seldoom go bad.

Why use the stock speedo?

Originally posted by Desperado:

 

...Anyone up to the challenge?

Yes. FJO was, back when they created that device.

Originally posted by boosted1.6:

Originally posted by David Andes:

 

http://flathat.woodstream.net/ColumbusRacing/Northwood/hb18%5B1%5D.jpg

Wheres the other half of that engine?

Cat. Convertor heat sheild?

The light will come on when there are problems in the system as well as when the brake is engaged. Check your fluid.

You can make a Grand Am faster by buying a new car. Any time spent on a Grand Am is better spent poking yourself in the eye.

Timing is off.

I went with the Bassani mid lengths and am very happy. They provided a considerable power gain, both torque and HP, and were not as much of a bear to install. I still dropped the K member, but I have less room to work than the Mustang guys.

Z-Tech did an awesome job on mine, and did EXACTLY what I told them to. graemlins/thumb.gif

NOS adds torque. How much power is added is dependent on RPM. Think about it.

Swap to what? All GT Mustangs 94 and up have 8.8 Trac Loc rears.

How do you expect to convert from three phase to single phase?

I can get it polished. PM me.

Danger to manifold.

Otherwise known as a "chassis lube."

My car has been running warmer, which is a problem for the Marks. I will be doing more upgrasding to the cooling system, and I will be running a blower, so I would like to keep the car as cool as possible. I wasn't looking for an increase in power; if the pump offers one it's just an added bonus.

I purchased some parts to upgrade my cooling system today. I read a letter in the latest (October) MM&FF that states the water pump was redesigned for the 99 and up Cobra. The upgraded features include less drag at higher RPMs and improved flow for better cooling. Be assured there has been a design change. HOWEVER, I do not see any reason that drag would be reduced by any means. The redesign seems to be the addition of a round plate behind the impeller, making it look similar to a vented brake rotor. I can see how this would improve flow, but I can't see where it would reduce drag. Preliminary driving tests show no difference in the cooling effect, either, but I have not taken the car on the highway yet. I will keep everyone posted as time goes on. I also plan on changing the thermostat to a 160* model when I install the headers.

 

http://mark8.org/users/Eli/1/wpump.jpg

http://mark8.org/users/Eli/1/wpump1.jpg

Originally posted by rl:

What are the specs on the cam?

 

I'd say don't put a cam in the car unless you at LEAST put some gear in it (4.10's man! come on!).

218/218 @ .050, .456", 110* lobe sep.

 

With the powerband so low, 4.10s would hurt it.

Comp cams 268H is the best street cam for an auto car without a convertor. PERIOD.

Edelbrock exhaust clips.

 

I just bought some headers if you were thinking about those as well; the Bassani mid lengths are BY FAR the best looking header out there. They have a real collector, and smooth flanges, they are made from SS and are coated inside and out. I had the BBK long tubes for my car but are selling them since I saw the Bassanis. I can't wait to get them on the car.