Mensan
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Posts posted by Mensan
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Looks like I lose $5...
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A drill with a wire brush attachment.
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Betcha $5:
FUEL PUMP
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Negative Ghostrider.Originally posted by 03STEED:That dry ice myth is just that, a myth!!!
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They use dry ice. It's like a black art; not many people can do it. The way it works is the metal contracts rapidly and all the molecules rush together and realign in their original shape. It's really cool IMO.
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Man, with the questions you are asking you need to stop and get some help from someone else. I don't mean to offend you, but dude, thats not the right way to go about that at all. First off, I wouldn't use filler to fix a dent. Second, if I did need to use a filler, it'd be fiberglass filler and not bondo. If you're going to paint a practice piece, do an easier color like white or gray. Try and get a part time job helping around a body shop if you're serious about it.
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Ford O rings are use once only, I have a sack of them in the garage.
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Blue be 24
Yellow be 19
Green be 42
Thats all I know.
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If you buy the polished ones they will crack and peel in no time. Bassani just put out their coated stainless mid lengths, you can get them in 1 5/8, or 1 3/4, and they make more power than most other manufacturers. The coating also keeps the heat in for more velocity (more power). My headers currently being built were 500, then I had them strip the coating, then they are being re-welded to fit my chassis, recoated and sent back to me (an additional 480). There is no way I will pay that much for a set of headers only to have them rust out in a year or two. Get the coated versions.
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Control Panel>Sounds, speech and audio devices>Sounds and audio devices>Troubleshoot
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My guess would be the mechanic meant the charcoal went through the ducting, which makes sense. I dont think there is a mechanic alive that would think particles that large would get into the closed loop of the ac system.
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On the 4.6s you need the special tool. I tried to change mine without buying it, BIG mistake. Just head down to NAPA, its a couple of bucks and is SO easy after you get it.
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Stick your hand behind your tailpipe with the car idling. Then have someone floor the car. The difference in pressure you feel is the same difference in pressure the turbo sees. The lag is the time it takes to make the heavy metal blades of the turbo spin faster.
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I heard good things about the Nittos. My friend Joe is real happy with his 555's.
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It also traps oil. If the oil gets stuck in there and you drive the car too far the wrap will ignite and its hard to put out since the wrap is basically a wick. Be careful. If you're able to pull the headers off fairly easily then go for it. You WILL make more power. If this is a one time installation cause its a PITA, then skip that part.
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I agree, but I'd stick a lugnut on the end if you could so you have a little extra surface area to pound. Makes it a little harder to dick up your hammer too.Originally posted by clm:If it's on your Civic, it's easy to replace. Take the wheel, brake caliper, and rotor off. Then take a hammer and pound out the stud. Take some big washers and the lugnut and tighten it so the stud gets pulled through. It's not very hard.
...Does "dick up your hammer" sound graemlins/fruit.gif ?
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Almost all transmission failures are cused by heat, and as the tranny fails bits of debrit go through the tranny cooler. Most people replacing transmissions don't think about this and experience failures of the new units shortly after installing them. Be sure to flush the tranny cooler or you will be buying another tranny. It's not that hard to change; since it's not your primary ride make it your $400 project. It'll be worth it for the experience.
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I went from 3.07 to 4.10. Mileage went from 28 to 24 HWY, from 22 to 19 City. Should improve when I install the headers next week.
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Dude 400HP is closer to a single turbo, a twin setup will easily exceed that. Are you planning more later or what?
And you realize that your stock internals may hold up for a couple of hours before your ring lands break right? 4.6's do not like boost.
I'm not trying to be an ass, Im trying to be realistic. I've had my blower for MONTHS and don't want to put it on until everything else is right.
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That sounds like the guy I need. For what I want I need "no questions asked" type policies. Thanks.
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I will need some work done soon and I am very anal. I want someone who will listen to me and not screw it up. So far I havent found that shop yet. Anybody?
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He has the same type as I do, with a large round MAF and a smaller sample tube. Yes, it can read off if there is a bend before the sensor. It could be rich or lean or work very well. Both the stockers and the C&L will do this, the ProM with the 360* sampling will read okay with a bend in the tube. Put the MAF farther back, or the bend farther in front if you think its causing a problem. If not, don't worry about it.
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Pics would help.
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Sounds like you need an alignment. Or maybe you cruise the cul-de-sac?
94 pontiac grand am
in Tech and Tips
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