Tinman

Too bad it's work safe, probably Beer girl

Sorry, 4 lug drum. Bolt-in for the mid eighties to 93 mustangs except cobra.

Very low miles great cond. $160 OBO (614)657-3620

Like the title says, part#7719 Valves 2.05/1.60 Intake runner 210cc/75cc Chambers 60cc Mech. roller springs Brand new still in the box $1000 They sell for around $1300 retail. These belong to a friend of mine, call him at(614)657-3620, or pm me and I can contact him.

Vegas has Bush 2 to 1

Got one. Thanks guys!

Hey all, Anyone have an extra engine stand they don't need for a couple of days? Mine is currently occupied and I hate to buy another that will just take up space after this weekend. Thanks, Matt

The SB2.2 RX7 project should be completed just in time for snow. And while I'm waiting on parts I'll be dropping a 98 3800 v6/t5 combo in one of my other RX7s

Someone come get this thing!

Pics sent, thanks

Free loveseat, blue no stains or strange smells. I can email pics if you would like, otherwise come and get it.

Not true, Muncie, Jerico, T5, and T56 all have different patterns.

It's hard to explain, but you need to concentrate your heat on the flange and the "whip" the puddle onto the pipe.

It really helps to practice on a bench, where you can see everything going on and concentrate on the weld in a comfortable position. Then proceed to the under the car/ overhead welding.

A friend of mine spends some time at Sports on Tap, I think it is right downtown. From what I have heard, it sounds like a decent place.

None of this counts becuase it is not yet together. But when said and done it should run between 140 and 145mph in the 1/4mile and put down around 650-700rwhp. 2hp per cubic inch on pump gas

Two oil galley plugs and the cam plug. They can be found in front of the tranny. I highly doubt they are the cause of the leak though, they generally don't start leaking after many miles. They only leak in poorly assembled engines. I'm not sure where your oil pressure sending unit is, however there is a pressure port behind the intake, towards the driver's side, on the intake to block sealing surface.

Another thing to consider here, there is alot more involved in swapping a totally different series of engine in a front wheel drive layout. In a front engine/rear drive, it's very straight foward. Fabricate the neccessary mounts for the engine/tranny and have a custom driveshaft made to adapt to the originat rear axle. In a front/front application, you have either adapt the whole front suspension, or figure out how to drive the original hubs with the new and different tranny.

The 4.3 shares it's pattern with the small and big block chevy, the 2.8 uses a different pattern.

If you want to see more of it, it's in this months Hot Rod.

That reminds me, I have a copy of Cannonball the book written by Brock Yates, the organizer and participant of all of the Cannonballs. It's the best book I've ever read, anyone really interested should pick up a copy, or borrow mine. Ooh, and when does this come out?!!!!

Does it need a rebuild, or can it go a few thousand more?

Slant six! A couple of friends of mine have one running high nines. http://www.slantsix.org/galleries/claycity/2003/cox-burnout.jpg

Not trying to be a dick, but it is "King of Columbus". He who has the fastest car and can get it down the track wins. If you cannot compete, build something that can. Instead of asking for a class that you can win in

I have everything from 24 gauge to .25" plate at my shop. Stainless and aluminum also. Let me know what you need and I will probably be able to get it cheaper than anywhere else.